S F 

.Bass 




LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 

Chap._„__ .. Copyriglit No. 
Shelf.JD 2j% 5 

UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 




STUDENTS PRESSING CHEESE. 



Cheese Making. 



CHEDDAR, 

SWISS, 

BRICK, 

LIMBURGER, 

EDAM, 

COTTAGE. 



/ 

J O H X W. DECKER, 

1 1 

Associate Professor of Dairying, Ohio State University ; Instructor in 

Dairying. University of Wiscoxsix. 

1890-189D. 



I L, L U S T R V T E U . 



COLUMBI-.S, OHIO : 

PUBLISH KlIJ BI THE AUTHOR. 

I !> () O . 

A E I. It I (; H T s RESERVED. 



u ; 



83407 



t) 



Library of Cong 

"I wo Comes Received 
DEC 3 1900 



ch. 



Copyrights 



Cf'o I 



SECOND COPY 
Ostanndfe 

OROEft DIVISION 



COPYRIGHTED BY 

JOHN W. DECKER, 
1900. 



PRESS OF 

THE HEREIN PRINTING COMPiSV, 

COL11IBCS, OHIO. 



Stephen Moulton Babcock, Ph. D., 

Chief Chemist of the Wisconsin Experiment Station, 

WHO, AS A TEACHER, AND LATER AS A CO-WORKER, BY PATIENT LABOR 

AND WISE COUNSEL, INSPIRED THE AUTHOR WITH A 

GREATER LOVE FOR THE PROFESSION 

OF DAIRYING, 

THIS BOOK IS INSCRIBED. 



PREFACE. 



The American dairy school is of recent origin, the first one 
having been started in Wisconsin in 1891. 

With the dairy school came the need of pedagogic state- 
ments of the subjects taught therein. 

It fell to the lot of the author of this book to make such a 
statement of cheese making. His first attempt was printed in 
1893 under the title of "Cheddar Cheese Making." This first 
attempt met with an encouraging reception and was translated 
into the French language by Emile Castel for the use of the 
Canadians in the Province of Quebec. A second and revised 
edition under the same name was printed in 1895, and is now 
nearly exhausted. In the meantime our experiment stations 
have turned their attention to the subject and much valuable 
information has been produced. The author has been con- 
fronted with the necessity of bringing out a new revision of the 
book by a certain date, and that under pressure of other work. 
He has attempted to bring Cheddar cheese making up to date, 
and to present for the first time a treatment of the other kinds 
of cheese included in the title of the volume. 

Because of their relation to the subject, milk testing, and 
dairy bacteriology have been touched upon briefly. An ex- 
haustive treatment has not been necessary as there are text 
books treating on these subjects. 

This is primarily a text book and not a reference volume. 
To make the latter out of it would make it unwieldly for the 
former purpose. An analytical index, a complete table of con- 
tents, and references to original matter will, however, assist 
the busy man, student or instructor to look up references quickly 
or to find original data. 

Columbus, Ohio, November 1, 1900. 

vii 



TABI^E OF CONTEXTS. 



Chapter I. — The Constitution of Milk. 

1. Purpose of milk. 2. Composition. 3. Man's use of milk. 4. Al- 
buminoids. 5. Casein. 6. Albumen. 7. Albumose. 8. Ash. 9. Milk 
sugar. 10. Fat. 11. In Emulsion. 12. Creaming of milk. 13. Effect 
of fat on quality of cheese. 14. Effect of fat on quantity of cheese. 
15. Colostrum milk. 16. Curd. 17. Whey. 18. Composition of whey. 19. 
Losses of fat in whey. 20. Whey from Swiss cheese. 21. Constituents 
recovered in cheese. 
Chapter II. — Secretion and Contamination of Milk. 

22. Structure of the udder. 23. Secretion of the milk. 24. Time of 
secretion. 25. Cause of bad flavors. 20. From food eaten. 27. Flavors; 
by absorption. 28. Bacterial infection. 29. Varieties of bacteria in 
milk. 30. How milk is infected. 31. The Wisconsin curd test. 32. Care 
of milk. 33. Aeration. 34. Varieties of aerators. 35. The barn air. 
36. Keep cows clean. 37. Cooling the milk. 38. Covering the cans. 
39. Kinds of utensils. 40. Care of utensils. 41. Factory cleanliness. 
42. Rubber boots. 43. Scrubbing the floor. 44. Soaps. 45. Scrubbing 
brushes. 46. Towels, 47. Watch the corners. 48. Shelves for trinkets. 
49. How to kill moulds. 50. Antiseptics. 51. To prevent dust. 52. 
Factory surroundings. 
Chapter .III. — Milk Testing. 

53. Rapid progress. 54. The Babcock test. 55. The bottle. 56. The 
pipette. 57. The acid measure. 58. The centrifuge. 59. To make the 
test. 60. Strength of acid. 61. Speed of the centrifuge. 62. Reading the 
fat. 63. Testing cheese. 64. Quevenne lactometer. 65. Board of health 
lactometer. 66. Detecting watered milk. 67. Composite samples. 68. 
Milk thief. 69. Sample jars should be marked to prevent mistakes. 
70. Milk samples, how preserved. 
Chapter IV. — Enzymes. 

71. Two kinds of ferments. 72. Galactase. 73. Rennet extract. 74. 
Rennets, how preserved. 75. How rennet extract is made. 76. Reliable 
brands to be preferred. 77. Effect of heat on rennet. 78. Rennet does 

ix 



x Table of Contexts. 

not exhaust itself. 79. Effect of acidity on the action of rennet. 80. 
Rennet extracts not alike. 81. Rennet action deoendent on three things. 
82. J. B. Harris discovers the rennet test. 83. Rennet a powerful agent. 
84. Glass graduates for measuring. 85. The Monrad rennet test. 80. 
Use thermometer to stir milk. 87. The Marschall rennet test. 88. How 
to make the test. 89. Marschall tests not alike. 90. Errors to be avoid- 
ed with Marschall apparatus. 

Chapter V. — The Deportment of Rennet. 

[H. Experiments in rennet action. 92. Effect of acid and alkali. 
93. Effect of water in milk. 94. The effect of salt (NaCl). 95. The 
effect of temperature. 96. Effect of Anesthetics. 97. Thermal Destruc- 
tion point. 98. Effect of strength of rennet solution. 99. Soluble cal- 
cium salts required for rennet action. 100. Effect of milk preservatives. 

Chapter VI. — Cheddar Cheese. 

101. History of Cheddar cheese. 102. Rise of factory system; in 
New York. 103. In Ohio. 104. In Wisconsin. 105. Two processes of 
manufacture. 10(3. Cheddar system proper. 107. Test for overripe 
milk. 108. Stir milk to keep cream down. 109. Ripening the milk. 110. 
How to ripen milk to the right point. 111. Definition of a starter. 112. 
What to use for a starter. 113. Lactic ferment starter. 114. What 
not to use for a starter. 115. Milk must not be too ripe. 116. Adding 
the color. 117. Setting the milk. 118. Rennet should be diluted. 119. 
When the curd is ready to cut. 

Chapter VII. — Cutting and Heating the Curd. 

120. Firming the curd. 121. How to cut a fast working curd. 122. 
Use horizontal curd-knife. 123. How to insert the horizontal knife. 
124. How to take the knife out. 125. How to insert the perpendicular. 
knife. 120. Rapidity of stroke a factor. 127. Keep curd moving. 128. 
When to begin heating. 129. Cooking an over ripe curd. 130. Stirring 
the curd. 131. Curd rakes. 132. McPherson curd rake. 133. How to tell 
a proper cook. 

Chapter VIII.— Drawing the Whey— Dipping and Milling the 

Curd. 

134. Measuring acid. 135. Threads due to acid. 130. Result of too 
much acid. 137. Curd racks. 138. Racks, how used. 139. Cutting the 
curd into blocks. 140. Turning the curd. 141. Pin-holey curds. 142. 
Washing curds. 143. Use of a curd sink. 144. Proper form of curd 
sink. 145. How to fill a curd sink. 140. Keep the curd warm. 147. 



Table of Contents. xi 

Piling curds. 148. When a curd is ready to mill. 149. Description of 
curd mills. 150. Pohl mill. 151. Whitlow mill. 152. McPherson mill. 
153. Gosselin mill. 154. The Harris mill. 155. The Fuller mill. 156. 
The Barnard mill. 157. The Kasper mill. 158. Advantages for and ob- 
jections to knife mills. 159. Stirring the curd. 160. Time to mill. 161. 
Effect of dry acid. 162. How to expel gas. 163. Steaming curds. 

Chapter IX. — Salting and Pressing the Curd. 

I(i4. Condition of a curd for salting. 165. What salt is. 166. Where 
salt comes from. 167. Impurities in salt. 168. What salt does to cheese. 
169. Effect of too much salt. 170. Curds not always salted the same 
amount. 171. Salt should be evenly distributed. 172. Application of 
salt. 173. Temperature for salting. 174. Conditions of salted curd for 
pressing. 175. Removing fat. 176. Curd must not be too warm. 177. 
Curd must not be too cold. 178. Common packages of cheese. 179. 
Kinds of bandage used. 180. How the bandage is put onto the cheese. 
181. Cheese must be the same size. 182. Tighten the press slowly. 183. 
Dressing the cheese. 184. The Wilson hoop. 185. How to eet cheese 
dry. 186. Do not pound the hoops. 187. Greasing the cheese. 188. 
Cracks in cheese. 189. Cheese in cold storage. 490. Cleaning mouldy 
cheese. 191. Cheese cloth circles. 192. Press cloths. 193. Keep a daily 
record. 

Chapter X. — Curing and Shipping the Cheese. 

194. Proper temperature. 195. Curing at different temperatures. 196. 
Curing shelves, how made. 197. Arrangement of cheese. 198. Moisture 
in curing room. 199. The Hygroscope. 200. The Psychrometer. 201. 
Condition of the curing room air. 202. Supplying moisture. 203. Cheese, 
how boxed. 204. Scale boards. 205. How cheese are weighed. 206. 
Marking of weights. 207. Buyer's stencil. 208. How to sell cheese. 

Chapter XI. — Judging Cheese. 

209. Ideal cheese. 210. Flavor. 211. Texture. 212. Salt. 213. Color. 
214. Gross appearance. 215. Wisconsin factory cheese makers' scale. 
216. Corky cheese. 217. Hard, crumbly or mealy cheese. 218. Weak 
bodied, pasty cheese. 219. Cracked cheese. 220. Poison cheese. 

Chapter XII. — Hints on the Construction and Operation of 

Cheese Factories. 

221. One difficulty in making good cheese. 222. Too many small 
factories. 223. Poor buildings. 224. Poor foundations. 225. Whey 
tank. 226. No hot water. 227. Ontario cheese factories. 228. Good 



xii Table of Contents. 

foundations. 221*. Dimensions. 230. Store room. 231. Curing room. 
232. Sills. 233. Curing-room floor. 234. Vat-room floor. 235. Curing- 
room walls. 236. Doors and windows. 237 Joists.. 238. Stone cellar. 
239. Curing cellars. 240. Cellar, how ventilated. 241. Sub-earth ducts. 
242. Use of a well. 243. Number and size of tiles. 244. Electric fans 
for driving air. 245. Boiler room. 246. Building should be raised. 247. 
Water supply. 248. Hot wafer. 249. Sewer. 250. Blind-well. 251. Sewer 
trap. 252. Sewer in clay soils. 253. Whey tank, how built. 254. Elevat- 
ing whey. 255. Bath room. 256. Equipment. 257. Water boxes of 
vats should be lined. 258. Curd sinks. 259. Pressing flats 260. Sink, 
how made. 261. Milk, how lifted. 262. Milk testing. 263. Appliances 
needed. 264. Curing shelves. 265. Cost of factory. 

Chapter XIII. — Organization of Cheese Factory Association. 

266. Plans of operation. 267. By-laws for a cheese factory associa- 
tion. 268. Test committee. 269. Quorum. 270. Rates for making. 271. 
Figuring dividends. 272. Factory statement. 

Chapter XIV. — Swiss Cheese — Its Characteristics. 

273. Sweet curd cheese. 274. Switzer, where made. 275. Descrip- 
tion of Switzer cheese. 276. Determining quality of cheese. 277. Flavor. 
278. Texture. 279. Color. 280. Grades of cheese. 281. How cheese is 
tried. 

Chapter XV. — Swiss Cheese — From Milk to Curing Cellar. 

282. Selection of the milk. 283. Cause of Glaesler cheese. 284. Ren- 
net test should be used. 285. Use of a starter. 286. Test of rennet 
solutions not correct. 287. Swiss kettles. 288. Filling the kettle. 289. 
Setting the milk. 290. Cutting Swiss curd. 291. The Swiss harp. 292. 
The wire stirrer. 293. Another method of cutting. 294. Inserting the 
wooden brake. 295. Cooking the curd. 296. Testing the curd for firm- 
ness. 297. Dipping the curd. 298. Pressing drum Swiss. 299. Pressing 
block Swiss. 300. Marking cheese. 301. Salting the cheese in brine. 
302. Salting with dry salt. 

Chapter XVI. — Swiss Cheese — Work in the Cellar. 

303. Starting the eyes. 304. Reason for making block Swiss. 305. 
Handling on the shelves. 306. The second cellar. 307. Handling block 
Swiss in the cellar. 308. Length of curing period. 309. Boxing drum 
Swiss. 310. Boxing block Swiss. 311. Whey butter. 



Table of Contents. xiii 

Chapter XVII. — Brick Cheese. 

312. Characteristics of brick cheese. 313. Quality of milk required. 
314. Milk when received. 315. Quantity of. rennet required. 31(3. How 
cooked. 317. Testing curd for firmness. 318. Dipping the curd. 319. 
Brick cheese molds. 320. Draining table. 321. Draining boards. 322. 
Filling the molds. 323. Pressing the cheese. 324. Salting the cheese. 
325. Curing the cheese. 326. Appearance of gas; remedy. 327. Curing 
process. 328. How cheese is shipped. 329. Fancy styles. 

Chapter XVIII. — Limburger Cheese. 

330. Origin of Limburger. 331. Characteristics of Limburger. 332. 
Kind of milk required. 333. Utensils used. 334. Setting the milk. 335. 
Cooking Limburger curd. 336. Dipping the curd. 337. Limburger 
pressing table. 338. Salting Limburger. 339. Curing Limburger. 340. 
Shipping Limburger. 341. Cause of putrefactive fermentation. 

Chapter XIX. — Edam Cheese. 

342. Characteristics of Edam cheese. 343. Origin of Edam. 344. 
Farming in Holland. 345. Edam cheese in Holland. 346. Treatment 
of cheese for market. 347. Description of an Edam market. 348. Pos- 
sibilities of manufacture in America. 349. Market for Edam in 
America. 350. Methods of manufacture. 351. Quality of milk required. 
352. Handling the curd for Edam. 353. Edam molds. 354. Methods of 
pressing. 355. Hooping the curd. 356. Dressing Edam cheese. 357. 
Salting Edam. 358. Curing Edam. 359. Shelves for new cheese. 360. 
Length of curing period. 361. Preparing the cheese for market. 

Chapter XX. — Cottage Cheese. 

362. Utilization of skim milk. 363. Methods of manufacture. 364. 
Curdling power of acid. 365. Effect of fat on per cent of acid in milk. 
366. Abnormal fermentations. 367. Measuring the acidity. 368. Setting 
the milk. 369. Curdling the milk. 370. Dipping the curd. 371. Mar- 
keting the cheese. 



CHAPTER I. 

The Constitution of Milk. 



1* Purpose of milk. 

Cow's milk is given for the primary purpose of nourishing 
the young calf until it can seek other food in variety. 

2. Composition. 

One might therefore expect to find that it contains all the 
food elements necessary for the building up of the young ani- 
mal's body. An analysis reveals the presence of water, for the 
young animal's body is in the largest proportion composed of 
water ; ash for the bones ; nitrogenous material in the form of 
casein, albumose and albumen to nourish the muscles, hair, 
hoofs and horns ; and carbonaceous matter in the form of sugar 
and fat to maintain the heat of the body. 

The following table will give a fair idea of the average com- 
position of milk as delivered to a New York cheese factory; the 
figures being taken from Bulletin 82, December. IS!) I, Geneva, 
New York Experiment Station : 

Table Showing Averacje Monthly Composition ok Milk. 



Month. 


s . 

41 U 
O <L> 


'/3 

12 

c W 
V o 


a . 
o rt 

CU o 


Per cent 
Solids — not 
Fat. 


Per cent 
Nitrog-en 
Compounds. 


u r. 
DhO 


+. a 

a % 

u d 

u S3 

V .-i 


6 

a ° 

u s 

w s> 

V — 


Per cent 
Sug-ar, Ash, 
Etc. 


May 


87 40 


12 60 


3.63 


8.97 


3.14 


2.44 


0.32 


0.38 


5.83 


June 


87.53 


12 47 


3.55 


8.92 


3 07 


2 35 


0.29 


0.43 


5.85 


July 


87.63 


12.37 


3.59 


8.78 


3.00 


2 27 


0.29 


0.44 


5.78 


August 


87.51 


12.49 


3.78 


8.71 


3 05 


2 32 


0.31 


0.42 


5.66 


September. . 


87.33 


12.67 


3.75 


8.92 


3.10 


2.41 


0.34 


35 


5.82 


October 


86.87 


13.13 


4.00 


9.13 


3.36 


2.60 


0.36 


0.40 


5.77 



2 



Cheese Making. 



This table shows that the total solids in the milk varies be- 
tween 1? and 13 per cent, and the fat varies between 35 and -17 
per cent. These are averages for the milk in the vat at the 
factory. Individual cows or herds may produce milk varying 
considerably from these averages. In the table the sugar, ash, 
etc., are combined. Approximately speaking milk contains 5 
per cent of nilk sugar and .7 per cent ash. 

The following chart shows how the different constituents 
of the milk are usually grouped with an approximate relation to 
their use as food in the animal economy. Thousands of milk 
analyses are on record, but these van- some with conditions of 
location, etc., so that it would be difficult to give an absolutely 
correct average, but the figures here given are within the range 
of usual variation. 



MM 



Water! 
87%/ 



Total 



/Solid 

13% 



s< 



/Solids 

rjot 
pat 

ir/ 



Ash .it 

CcLseinZ.1% 



Use in 
Animal economu 
(Wo-ier of 

^IBones 

Muscles 
Tendons 



or 



Fai<3.?% 



Trofein 

^IUcn.3l^l Ha,r r 

HoojS 
Horns 



r Heat 

Fat 



/llJbwmose h\ 
.Sugari./c 



3. 3Ian's use of milk. 

Man has diverted milk from its normal purpose (the nour- 
ishment of the calf) and uses it for a number of food products 
for himself. The cow normally gives enough milk in quantity 
and duration to nourish the calf until it can care for itself and 
then dries up ; but by artificial means the cow has been accus- 
tomed to the habit of giving milk in larger quantities and for a 
longer period, and the cow that has not acquired this habit satis- 



The Constitution of M'i'lk. 3 

factorily is not a financial success. Let us examine the several 
components of the milk. 

4. Albuminoids. 

The albuminoids or protein contain the nitrogen of the 
milk and may be divided into three parts ; namely, the casein, 
albumen, and albumose. 

5. Casein. 

The casein is the part of the milk that is curdled by rennet 
or weak acids. Commonly speaking it is said to be dissolved in 
the water of the milk, but this is not strictly true. If milk be 
filtered through a porcelain filter it will leave a gelatinous mass 
in the filter. This is the casein ; or, if skim milk be revolved for 
a long time in a separator bowl, a layer of casein will be de- 
posited on the walls of the bowl. Casein is dissolved in solu- 
tions of borax, sodium phosphate, and alkalis. It is used com- 
mercially as a sizing for paper. 

6. Albumen. 

By referring to the preceding tables (2) it will be seen that 
the casein does not constitute all of the protein of milk. When 
milk has coagulated by rennet the casein is precipitated. If the 
whey be heated to 180° F. another precipitate will be thrown 
down. This is the albumen. It is much like the white of an 
egg which is coagulated by heat. It is in solution until the 
heat precipitates it. It probably accounts for part of the burnt 
taste of boiled milk. Albumen cannot be incorporated in Ched- 
dar cheese without giving the conditions of sour cheese. 

7. Albumose. 

Chemical analysis reveals the fact that milk contains an 
albuminous substance not coagulated by rennet or heat. To 
this substance the name of albumose has been applied. 

8. Ash. 

The ash is the bone-forming part of the milk and consists 
largely of phosphates of calcium and potash. There are some 
chlorides. Although the ash is in small proportions in the milk 
it is of great importance in cheese making. Part of the calcium 
salts are supposed to be suspended in fine particles in the milk 
or held in combination with the casein, but a part is certainly 
held in solution and on this solubility of calcium salts depends 
the property of coagulation by rennet. If ammonium oxalate 
be added to milk in sufficient quantity, the soluble calcium salts 



■i Cheese Making. 

will be changed to insoluble calcium oxalate, and the milk will 
not curdle with rennet. Similar results can be obtained by 
heating the milk to 180° F. When a soluble calcium salt is 
added, the rennet will again act — in fact will operate faster as 
the soluble calcium salt is increased. 

9. Milk sugar. 

The sugar of milk crystallizes in hard crystals, but is not as 
sweet as the common cane sugar. At high temperature it cara- 
melizes, giving with the albumen, to the milk the peculiar scald- 
ed taste. It is separated from milk by evaporating whey in a 
vacuum pan. Commercial milk sugar is used in lactated foods, 
and medicines. 

10. Fat. 

The fat of the milk is a mixture of several fats, mainly of 
stearic, palmitic and oleic acids, in combination with glycerine. 
With these are a number of fats that are both volatile and solu- 
ble. In this latter respect butter fat differs from the fats used 
in oleomargarine. Filled cheese is made by introducing oleo 
oils into milk in the place of the butter fat. 

11. In emulsion. 

The fat of milk is in emulsion — that is, it is distributed 
through the milk serum in the form of very small globules, 
which can be seen by the eve only by the aid of a powerful mi- 
croscope. They vary normally in size from 1-10,000 of an inch 
to 1-2000 of an inch in diameter. Being so very small they 
must necessarily be very numerous. 

Dr. Babcock estimates that in average milk there are 150,- 
uoii.oiio in a single drop. The average production of fat glob- 
ules by the cows in the Cornell Experiment Station herd has 
been estimated to be 38,210,000 per second. 

12. Creaming of milk. 

The fat globules being lighter than the surrounding serum 
naturallv rise, and crowding close together form a layer known 
as the cream. In the manufacture of cheese it is necessary to 
get an eyen distribution of the fat globules at the time of coagu- 
lation by the rennet. 
1!?. Effect of fat on quality of cheese. 

Cheese from separator skim milk is hard and horny ; and 
though undoubtedly possessing food value, is too tough to be 
eaten. 



h-;3 






P 






< re n 

3°S.3 ™ £ 
o-< £p_C 

3 ►> O 1 

f> 3 5 3> 

-n ^ o 

™ 5 *• r+ 



3 "o w 2, 

n 3 p 

2 Sg-ja 



o >2 — 

ETOTQ r 1 3 

ft "1 o 

re o'cri 
w 2 re m 

re C rt p 

P re n) 

2 ^ - 1 <" 
™ MS " 

2 re " re' 

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a?. 



2„3n 



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6 Cheese Making. 

Cheese made from part skim milk though rather dry, is 
better than this, and the cheese from full cream milk more mel- 
low and agreeable to the taste. Cheese made from exception- 
ally rich milk or from milk fortified by addition of cream is still 
softer and more palatable. This difference in quality is recog- 
nized on the market as can be seen by the quotations, full skims 
ranging from 1 to 4 cents in value, and full creams 7 to 13 cents 
per pound. 
14. Effect of fat on quantity of cheese. 

About five and a half to six pounds of cheese can be ob- 
tained from one hundred pounds of separator skim milk, the 
amount obtainable depending on the amount of casein in the 




The fat globules as seen through a microscope. The portion included in the 
circle is more highly magnified. The clotting is due to an albuminous substance (the 
fibrin according to Dr. Babcock) that collects around the globules soon after the milk 
is drawn from the udder. 

cheese. Perhaps 5.7 lbs. would be the amount of cured cheese 
obtainable from such milk. Butter fat will carry about a tenth 
of its weight of water with it into the cheese. A rough way of 
estimating the probable yield of cheese from a milk of a certain 
test would be to multiply the per cent of fat by 1.1, and add 5.7 — 
the result being the pounds of cheese obtainable. For instance, 
from 3 per cent milk there would be obtained 3X1-1=3.3 plus 
5.7 equal to 9 lbs.; and from 4 per cent milk, 4X1-1=4.4 plus 
5.7 equal to 10.1 lbs. 

The students of the Wisconsin Dairy School who work for 
dairy certificates are required to report their work each month 
on blanks furnished them. From 347 of these reports covering 



The Constitution of M'ilk. 7 

40,900,890 pounds of milk made into 3,800,000 pounds of 
cheese, Dr. Babcock prepared the following table : 

Table Showing Per cent of Fat in Cheese from Milks of 
Different Composition. 



Per cent Fat in 

Milk. 


Yield of Cheese 

per 100 lb. 

Milk. 


Per cent Fat in 
Cheese. 


Pounds of Cheese 

for one pound 

of Fat. 


3.13 


9.19 


29.7 


2.94 


3.38 


9.24 


32.3 


2.73 


3.60 


9.41 


34.0 


2.61 


3.84 


9.81 


35.1 


2.56 


4.09 


10.30 


35.8 


2.51 


4.45 


10.71 


37.8 


2.41 


Average. . 3.75 




34.1 


2.63 



It will be observed that the results with the rule given above 
correspond very closely to the results in actual practice. It also 
illustrates the difference in the quality of the cheese, for as the 
fat in the milk increases, it also increases in the cheese, making 
a mellower cheese which is more pleasing to the consumer. 

The yield of cheese per pound of fat, however, decreases 
with the increase of fat in the milk. If this were not so the 
cheese could not become richer in fat with the corresponding 
improvement in quality. 

Dr. Babcock has given a most excellent demonstration in 
the Eleventh Annual Report of the Wisconsin Experiment Sta- 
tion, that from market quotations the true value of milk for 
cheese is in proportion to its fat content. He says, in conclu- 
sion : "It may be stated as a general rule that it never pays to 
skim off part of the cream and make both butter and cheese, and 
further that whenever the price of butter exceeds two and one- 
third times the price of cheese it will pay better to make butter 
than cheese, no account being taken of the value of skim milk 
and whey. If the relative value of skim milk and whey be taken 
into account butter should pay better than cheese whenever its 
price exceeds two and one-quarter times the price of cheese. 
Under other conditions cheese should pay better than butter." 

In Chapter XIII an illustration of the method of paying 
for milk by fat test is given. 



Cheese Making. 



15. Colostrum milk. 

The first milk given by a cow just after parturition is called 
colostrum milk, and is much more viscous than normal milk, 
sometimes being as thick as syrup, and usually of a high color. 
The components of the milk are not in their normal proportions, 
the albuminoids sometimes amounting to fifteen per cent, and 
the specific gravity may run as high as 1.085. Under the micro- 
scope, cells which have scaled off from the inside of the udder 
can be seen floating in the milk, and while these dead particles 
are present the milk is unfit for cheese. After four or five milk- 
ings the milk will appear normal, but it should not be used for a 
week. 

16. Curd. 

The curd, or green cheese, is the coagulated casein which 
holds in its meshes, most of the fat, some water, and small por- 
tions of albumen, milk sugar and ash, plus salt that is added 
artificially when finished. The water in green cheese is about 
one-third of its weight. Green cheese and curd are synonymous, 
for the cheese is simply the curd pressed together. 

Table Showing Composition ok (Jkeek Cheese. 



Per cent 
Water. 


Per cent 
Solids. 


Per cent 
Solids— 
not Fat. 


Per cent 
Fat. 


Per cent 

Casein, 

Etc. 


Per cent 

Sugar, 

Ash, Etc. 


36.69 


63.51 


29.16 


34.14 


23.44 


5.17 



In the above table, which was compiled from the Geneva 
Experiment Station Bulletin 82, the sugar, ash, etc., are grouped 
together. Our own analyses showed the ash of cheese to vary 
from 2.38 to 3.85 per cent, of which ash, 2.38 to 2.68 per cent, 
was the natural ash of the milk, the remainder being salt that 
was added artificially. 
17. Whey. 

In the manufacture of cheese, the milk is curdled by rennet, 
and the curd cut into small pieces from which the liquid portion, 
or whey, is expelled. It consists of the major part of the water 
of the milk, which carries with it nearly all the soluble portions; 
namely, the albumen, milk sugar, ash, and also a small portion 
of fat, as the globules break away from the surface of the curd 
when it is cut. 



The Constitution of Milk. 



9 



18. Composition of whey. 

The average of analyses of whey for an entire season in a 
New York State factory was as follows: Water 93.12 per cent, 
total solids 6.88 per cent, fat .27 per cent, nitrogenous sub- 
stances .81 per cent, ash sugar, etc., 5.80 per cent. 

19. Losses of fat in whey. 

At the Minnesota Experiment Station in 1892 cheese was 
made from normal milks of different fat content. The following 
table shows the losses of fat from these different milks : 



Tablk Showing Losses of Fat in Milks of Different 
Fat Content. 



Per cent fat in whey 


3.5 to 4 
.38 
28 


4 to 4.4 
.36 
31 


4.5 to 5 
.39 
14 


5 to 5.5 
.32 
4 





In another series of experiments where cream was added 
to milk to make it test 6 per cent, the loss of fat in the whey was 
no greater than in the whey from normal milks like that to which 
the cream was added. 

In all cases the richer milks made more cheese, which 
would of course leave less whey from each 100 pounds of milk. 
It is easily seen from this that the fat in rich milk can be worked 
into the cheese more economically than the fat from poor milk. 

20. Whey from Swiss cheese. 

As explained above (17) the fat that goes into the whey is 
the fat globules that are knocked off from the surface of the 
curd particles. By using the kind of a knife used in Cheddar 
cheese making, the fat loss can be reduced to .3 or .4 per cent 
instead of .7 per cent when the old Swiss harp is used. 

By careful operation many makers are reducing the fat test 
of the whey to .2 per cent. 

21. Constituents recovered in cheese. 

The different parts of the milk have been discussed, to- 
gether with their relation to recovery or loss in cheese making. 

The following table taken from Bulletin 82 of the Geneva 
Station gives a very good idea of where the different parts of 
the milk sro to : 



10 



Cheese Making. 



Table Giving General Sujdiary of Season's Results Relat- 
ing to Loss of Milk-Constituents in Cheese Making. 





o 


■f VilH 


■ 0) Ml 








© . 




> <o o 


!>> 


a 






_«H w 


O <LI . 


<u 






CO " 


O 


O <U ifl 


J3 


is "i 




H |>,i« 


*;.c xs 


t^ 


-gg 




CO V X) 


unds 
d in 
100 
Ik. 


CD ~ 


sM 




a o 


§*<-,* 


O ^ 


u oO 




3 • 


Vh 10 


»-• O (U 

(U «u « 




&a 


SiSa 


o « ** — 

Q-i V MH a 


1) O 

Dhi4 


Solids in Milk 


12.52 
3.66 
3.07 


6.20 
0.25 
0.73 


6.32 
3.41 
2.34 


49.52 

6.83 

23 78 


50.48 


Fat in Milk 


93.17 


Nitrogen Compounds in Milk 


76.22 



QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER I. 

1. What are the food elements which enter into the compo- 
sition of milk? 2. What is the average composition of milk? 
3. What is meant by total solids? 4. Of what do the solids 
not fat consist? 5. How do we distinguish the difference be- 
tween casein, albumen, and albumose? 6. What importance is 
attached to the soluble calcium salts? 7. How much milk 
sugar in 100 pounds of milk? 8. How does milk sugar differ 
from cane sugar? 9. What is the nature of butter fat? 10. 
In what form is the fat found in milk? 11. What is the size of 
the fat globules? 12. How many fat globules in a drop of 
average milk? 13. What can be said about the distribution of 
the globules at the time of adding the rennet ? 14. What is the 
effect of fat in the milk on the quality of the cheese? 15. What 
is the effect of the fat content of milk on the quantity of cheese 
obtained therefrom? 16. How much cheese can be made from 
one hundred pounds of separator skim milk? 17. How much 
will one pound of fat increase the weight of cheese made from 
the milk? 18. Give rule for calculating approximately the yield 
of cheese from milk of a given fat content. 10. What does Dr. 
Babcock say about the practice of making both cheese and but- 
ter from the same milk? 20. What is colostrum milk, and how 
does it differ from normal milk? 21. What is the chemical 
composition of green cheese? 22. What is the whey and what 
elements of the milk does it contain? 23. How do the losses of 
fat in rich and poor milk compare? 24. How may excessive 
losses of fat in Swiss cheese making be avoided? 25. What 
proportion of the various constituents of the milk go into the 
curd and into the whey? 



CHAPTER II. 
SECRETION AND CONTAMINATION OF MILK. 



22. Structure of the udder. 

The udder of the cow where the milk is secreted, consists 
of two glands tied to each other along the median line, and to 
the posterior part of the abdomen, by fibrous tissue. Each quar- 
ter has two openings or teats. The teat is hollow, having an 
opening at the lower end guarded by a sphincter muscle. The 
chamber of the teat opens into another chamber in the lower 
part of the udder just above the teat. From this chamber ducts 
diverge, dividing and growing smaller. These pass each other 
so that it is possible to draw milk from both quarters on the 
same side from one teat. The two halves separated by the 
fibrous band along the median line are entirely separate. The 
ducts end in little chambers about a thirtieth of an inch in 
diameter. These chambers or ultimate follicles are lined with 
cells. Arteries, blood vessels and nerves surround them and 
the blood brought by the arteries is changed by the cells into 
milk. 

23. Secretion of the milk. 

While some parts of the blood may be taken into the milk 
without change, and white blood corpuscles have actually been 
found in milk, the blood is for the most part changed by the 
cells. The fat globules are produced in the cells and turned 
loose into the ducts. 

If samples of the fore milk and strippings be analyzed, the 
solids not fat will be found to be the same. The strippings will, 
however, be much the richer in fat. This is explained on the 
ground ; first, that the fat globules being lighter there is a nat- 
ural creaming in the udder, and second, that the fat globules 
being solids are retarded more by friction in their passage 
through the ducts. 

24. Tinie of secretion. 

Some authorities believe that milk is secreted to a large 
extent at the time of milking, for when a cow is excited or dis- 

11 




A section through a quarter of a cow's udder. Photographed at Cornell, N. Y. 
Experiment Station. 



Secretion and Contamination of Milk. 13 

turbed at that time, she may fail to produce as much milk of 
the same quality as usual. 

On the other hand the longer the period between milkings 
the longer will be the quantity of milk given, and if the udder 
is not emptied it will become very much distended, and from 
these facts it is argued that milk production is a continuous 
process, though the rate of secretion may vary at different times. 

25. Cause of bad flavors. 

There are three causes for bad flavors in milk, namely: 
From strong foods through the blood, by absorption from the 
air, and by bacterial infection. 

26. From food eaten. 

Some strong flavored foods like onions, turnips, cabbages, 
rag weed, etc., put a like flavor into the milk given by the cow. 
The reader may have observed that when very hungry and faint, 
a little lunch will renew strength in a very few minutes. This 
shows how quickly the food is taken into the blood. In like 
manner when a cow eats strong flavored foods the volatile sub- 
stances constituting the flavor are taken into the blood and from 
the blood they go into the milk. Aerating milk (33) will in a 
measure set these volatile substances free. If strong flavored 
food is given the cow just before milking the flavor will be sure 
to be found in the milk. If fed just after milking the flavors 
will probably pass out of the cow's system before the next milk- 
ing. 

27. Flavors by absorption. 

Milk, especially when warm, will absorb odors through the 
medium of the surrounding air. It should therefore be kept 
away from the debasing influence of hog pens, barnyards, swill 
barrels, and like oderiferous sources. 

28. Bacterial infection. 

Upon standing, milk becomes sour. The souring is caused 
by the growth of minute organisms, commonly called microbes 
or bacteria. They are plants consisting of but a single cell and 
so small that they can be seen only by powerful microscopes. 
Thev increase very rapidly and by their growth produce the 
changes ob c erved in the milk. Some forms change the milk- 
sugar into lactic acid and the milk becomes sour, other kinds 
•produce a rooiness of the milk without souring 1 it, and other 



11 Cheese Making. 

forms produce gas in the milk and when made into cheese the 
curd becomes filled with gas holes. 
29. Varieties of bacteria in milk. 

The following are some of the more common conditions 
produced in milk by bacterial growth : 

Sour milk; grassy milk; bitter milk; slimy milk; soapy 
milk, which comes from a germ found on straw in the stable, 
producing a soapy taste and frothing of the milk ; alcoholic fer- 
mentation ; red milk ; blue milk (not skimmed) ; green milk, etc. 
A bacillus known as Coli communis which exists in the colon or 
large intestine, thriving in the warm conditions there found, 
finds its way from manure into the milk and causes a large pro- 
portion of the gassy curds that our cheese makers have to deal 
with. At the Cornell Experiment Station this germ was found 
to exist in the udder for a long time. It found its way through 
the opening in the teat, got a lodgement, and was there to grow 
and contaminate the milk until accidentally dislodged and car- 
ried out with the milk. 
«30. How milk is infected. 

When the milk is drawn from the udder, bacteria floating 
separately or clinging to particles of dust in the air fall into it. 
It will readily be seen that if the stable is closed tight and hay 
has been fed just before milking, a great deal of bacteria-laden 
dust will be stirred up to fall into the milk. If the cow lies down 
in the manure, or other filth, at milking time the dust from this 
is stirred up and falls into the milk. Warm milk is a good 
place for the germs to grow, and they multiply very rapidly. If 
the milk is cooled the growth of the bacteria is checked for the 
time, but on warming up the milk again they will grow and 
multiply rapidly. 
31. The Wisconsin cnrd test. 

While associated in dairy work with Drs. Babcock and 
Russell at the Wisconsin Experiment Station we brought out 
what is known as the Wisconsin Curd Test for the detection of 
injurious fermentations. The apparatus consists of pint, or 
smaller, jars with perforated tops, which set in a frame in a 
water tank. Samples of the milk to be examined are taken in 
the various jars, which are then set in warm water in the water 
tank and raised to a temperature of 95° to 100° F. Ten drops 
of rennet extract is added to each sample and when the milk 



Secretion and Contamination oe M'i'lk. 15 

has curdled, the curd is broken up with a case knife. Care 
should be taken not to transfer the germs from one sample to 
another by the case knife or thermometer. As soon as the 
whey separates, it is strained off through the strainer top, leav- 
ing the curd behind in the jar. The curd is then under the 




A. Uninfected. B. A few gas germs. C. Many gas germs. 
The curds here shown were from curds developed in the Wisconsin Curd Test. A 
sample of good milk was divided into three parts. A was set normally. To B and C 
a starter of a Coli communis a gas germ was added, the larger starter being added 
to C. 

same conditions as a curd in the cheese vat, and the various 
kinds of bacteria will develop, giving their characteristic results. 
If the result be gas it will show in the curd, or if it be a taint it 
will be manifested. Common Mason fruit jars and a washtub 
can be used for this work, but the regular apparatus for the 
purpose is much handier. 

32. Care of milk. 

Having explained the sources of bad flavors in milk, a few 
suggestions about the care of milk may be in order. It has 
been seen that one cause of such flavors is the feed that the 
cows may get. If it is necessary to feed turnips or such foods, 
they should not be fed to excess, and just after milking, in order 
that the flavor may disappear from the cow's blood before the 
next milking. 

33. Aeration. 

Milk should be aerated — that is, it should be exposed in 
thin films or streams to the air, so that these volatile substances 
may escape. As milk will absorb odors from the air, especially 
when the milk is warm, great care should be taken to aerate the 
milk in a place where the air is fresh and untainted. The barn 
is obviously a poor place in which to do this. 




I low aril's At rato 



Milk Aerators 



Secretion and Contamination of Milk. 17 

34. Varieties of aerators. 

The common aerator is a large tin vessel with fine holes in 
the bottom. It is held above the milk can by an iron frame. 
The milk is strained into this, and while the milker is busy milk- 
ing the next cow, the milk falls through the air in fine streams. 
The star cooler and aerator is arranged so that the milk flows 
in a thin film over a corrugated surface, and water flowing 
through the apparatus cools the milk rapidly as it is being ex- 
posed to the air. 

35. The barn air. 

The air in the barn should be kept as free as possible from 
dust, for as previously explained the particles of dust are loaded 
with bacteria. Danish farmers have a habit of airing out the 
stables before milking, and hay or dry fodder is not fed until 
after milking. 

The stables should also be kept clean to prevent the milk 
from being injured by foul odors. 

36. Keep cows clean. 

The cows, if dirty, should be carded the same as a horse. 
There is absolutely no excuse for having a cow's flanks plastered 
over with filth. As previously explained, such filth is an incu- 
bator for the kinds of bacteria that spoil the milk. At milking 
time the dust is stirred up and falls into the milk. Just before 
milking, the cow's coat should be dampened with a rag or 
sponge to lay the dust and thus prevent its falling. The habit 
of wetting the teats, however, is a bad one, for with the moisture 
dirt runs down into the milk. 

While a limited number of lactic acid-producing germs in 
milk may not be detrimental, the germs that come from barn 
filth are very injurious. 
37 Cooling the milk. 

As soon as the milk has been aerated, it should be cooled 
to 60° F. or less. At -40° F. there will be little, if any, change in 
the milk, and if it has to be kept a considerable length of time, 
this temperature should be approximated as near as possible. 
38. Covering the cans. 

After the milk has been properly aerated and cooled, it 
should be covered to prevent evaporation from the cream that 
forms on the top. This cream can be readily worked back into 
the milk if it does not become leathery from evaporation. 



IS Cheese Making. 

39. Kind of utensils. 

Wooden pails should not be used for milk for the reason 
that milk will soak into the wood and ferment, ready to con- 
taminate the next lot of milk. 

The seams of pails, cans and dippers should be filled flush 
with solder so that milk cannot collect and sour. 

40. Care of utensils. 

All strainers, pails and other utensils in which the milk is 
handled should be rinsed first with lukewarm water, and then 
with boding water, and if possible, exposed to a jet of steam to 
thoroughly sterilize them. Many germs are killed by direct 
sunlight, and the utensils should be set out in such a position 
that the sun can shine into them. After scalding they should 
not be wiped out with a dirty rag. 

41. Factory cleanliness. 

Xot less important than the matter of cleanliness in the 
barn and manner of milking, is the matter of cleanliness in the 
factory. Milk may be spoiled in an untidy factory after its de- 
livery there. A few suggestions at this time regarding the care 
of the factory will be pertinent. 

Almost every cheese-maker will keep the inside of the 
weigh-can and cheese vats clean, but the outside is often sorely 
neglected. Milk may be spilled on the floor, and not properly 
cleaned up. Water is slopped on the floor, and the maker 
wades through it without drying it up ; when the whey is drawn 
from the vat, it often goes on the floor, and in order to keep his 
feet dry, he wears rubber boots. 

42. Rubber boots. 

The rubber boots are an injury to his health and the slop 
unnecessary, to say nothing about the wear on the floor and its 
nasty appearance. One would think a woman who kept her 
"kitchen floor in such condition, a very untidy housewife, and 
there is no reason why a factory floor should be slopped over 
any more than a kitchen floor. If any water accidentally gets 
onto the floor, it should be mopped up at once. Rotten floors 
which have to be renewed often, and rheumatism and ill health 
for the operator, is the price paid for the doubtful privilege of 
making a mill pond of the make-room floor. The old saying 
that "a penny earned is a penny saved" applys in a modified 
form to work in a factory, viz. : Care in preventing dirt will 
save the labor of cleaning it up. 



Secretion and Contamination of Milk. 



L9 



43. Scrubbing the floor. 

At the close of the day's work, the floor can he scrubbed, 
first with lukewarm, and then with hot water, and then dried off 
with a rubber mop. Hot water will make the floor dry quickly, 




Rubber Mop. Floor Scrub. 

but it should never be used where milk has been spilled, or 
where milk or whey is on tinware, for heat will scald the milk 
on. 

44. Soaps. 

Powdered soap, such as "Gold Dust," is very effective in 
taking out dirt, but it is too expensive a form in which to use 
soap, as it dissolves readily and runs away. Salsoda is much 
cheaper and just as effective for a great many things, such as 
cleaning the floor. A mixture of cheap soap and salsoda can 
be dissolved in hot water and used hot for scrubbing, and then 
afterward rinsed off with hot water. 

Sapolio is a soap mixed with infusorial earth, which may 
be used for scouring tinware. 

45. Scrubbing brushes. 

Several good stiff scrubbing brushes are needed for get- 
ting into corners. Brushes are now made in a number of differ- 
ent forms so as to apply to all conditions. There are round 
brushes on long handles for getting into pipes and tubes, strong 
brushes with sharp corners and round ends, and extra heavy 
floor scrubs. All these things make the work easier. 

46. Towels. 

Clean towels and clean cloths for wiping the hands and 
utensils, it would seem are so evident a need that it may be 
thought unnecessary to mention the fact, but the author's ex- 
perience in finding an absence of them in a large number of fac- 
tories compels mention to be made. 



20 Cheese Making. 

47. Watch the corners. 

In scrubbing the floor, the mop board should not be forgot- 
ten, nor the doors and other wood work. If the maker is care- 
ful in scrubbing the floor every day, a general scrubbing once a 
week will keep things looking bright. 

48. Shelves for trinkets. 

The windows should be kept as clean as those in a dwelling 
house, nor should tools and little trinkets be laid on the window- 
sills. There should be shelves for all such things. 

The curing room should likewise be kept in order. It 
should not be a dumping place for all sorts of material, which 
properly goes into the store room above. 

49. How to kill moulds. 

If at the beginning of the season, the walls are sprinkled 
with water, and the room closed tight while two or three pounds 
of sulphur is burned in it, moulds will be killed. 

50. Antiseptics. 

A still better way is to wash the walls with limewater. 
Limewater is a disinfectant, and should be used wherever it can 
be applied. Commercial sulphate of iron, or copperas or green 
vitriol, as it is commonly called, is also a disinfectant, and 
should be put into drains and places that are likely to smell bad. 

51. To prevent dust. 

The boiler room must not be neglected. If coal is used, 
coal dust can be prevented by sprinkling the coal with water. 
The floor should be kept cleanly swept, and should be mopped 
twice a week, or as often as needed. Tools should have their 
regular places and be kept there. 

The reader may think it a waste of space to talk about all 
these little matters, but experience has taught the writer that 
they are the foundation of the business of cheese-making; and 
makers often fail, because they do not recognize the fact. 

It is much easier to keep a clean factory than a dirty one, 
for the old saying that "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound 
of cure" is true here, as well as in other cases. 

52. Factory surroundings. 

Having got the inside of the factory clean, why not make 
the outside of it to match? Plant some trees, and in painting 
the factory, choose white or some light color, that will not ab- 
sorb but reflect, the heat. A little extra effort may be put into 



Secretion and Contamination oe Milk. 21 

graveling the roadways, to prevent them being cut up in wet 
weather. Level off the ground for a little space, seed it down, 
and cut the grass with a lawn-mower. If a dry spell comes we 
have plenty of water in our well, and can sprinkle the lawn with 
our steam pump. These things would take but little extra 
effort, and all will agree, that the result would fully repay the 
effort. 

Why should it not be the rule that a cheese factory is to be 
kept not only clean, but attractive as well ? 

QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER II. 

1. Describe the structure of the udder? 2. What can be 
said about the secretion of the milk in the udder? 3. How do 
samples of the fore milk and strippings compare as to fat con- 
tent? 4. How is the greater fat content of the strippings ex- 
plained? 5. At what time is the milk secreted? G. What are 
the three sources of bad flavors in milk? 7. How does the 
flavor of food get into the milk? 8. Will warm milk absorb 
odors? 9. What are microbes or bacteria? 10. What can be 
said about the effect of different germs on milk? 11. What can 
be said about the bacillus known as Coli communis? 12. How 
is milk infected? 13. What is the Wisconsin Curd Test and 
how is it used? 14. What is the value of the aeration of milk? 
15. Describe some of the common aerators. 16. What can be 
said of the barn air at milking time? 17. Why should the cows 
be kept clean? 18. Why should a cow's coat be dampened just 
before milking? 19. Why should milk be cooled after aerat- 
ing? 20. Why should the milk cans be covered over night? 
21. Why should wooden milking pails not be used? 22. How 
should utensils be washed? 23. What is the effect of wet floors 
and rubber boots on a maker's health? 24. How should the 
floor be scrubbed? 25. Why is a clean towel needed in a fac- 
tory? 



CHAPTER III. 
MILK TESTING. 



53. Rapid progress. 

When one stops to think that only ten years ago, or even 
less, the only means that a cheese-maker had of determining the 
quality of milk was the crude test tube, where the milk was set 
for the cream to rise, and a lactometer that would read good 
milk when both skimmed and watered, he begins to realize what 
great progress has been made in milk testing in so short a time. 
This great change has been brought about by work done at the 
Agricultural Experiment Stations, and this one line of progress 
is paying large dividends on all the money that has been invested 
in them. 

As indicated in Chapter I (14) the value of milk for cheese 
making is dependent on its fat content. "New coins are handled 
with suspicion," and when the new method of paying for milk 
according to test came to be advocated, farmers and dairymen 
were slow to adopt it until they understood it. At the present 
time, probably 70 per cent of the Cheddar cheese factories in 
Wisconsin are paying for milk in this way. 

54. The Babcock test. 

The Babcock test was invented by Dr. S. M . Babcock of the 
Wisconsin Agricultural Experiment Station, and published in 
Bulletin No. 24, July, 1890, and is now not only in general use 
in this country, but is also used in the different countries of 
Europe, and India, New Zealand and Australia. It has literally 
"gone round the world." 

It consists of four parts : 

55. The bottle. 

A bottle holding about two ounces and having a long, nar- 
row neck, about the size of a lead pencil. On this neck is a scale 
covering a volume of two cubic centimeters marked off into fifty 
divisions. Every five divisions marks one per cent and each 
division is therefore two-tenths of one per cent. 

22 




l'inette *cid Measure. 

Milk Bottle. iipette. 

ilabcock Test Glassware. 



24 Cheese Making. 

56. The pipette. 

The pipette is a glass tube with a bulb in the middle for 
measuring the milk. There is a mark on the upper narrow stem 
indicating 17. G c. c. which volume of average milk would weigh 
eighteen grams. 

57. The acid measure. 

This is a glass cylinder with a 17.5 c. c. mark on it for meas- 
uring the sulphuric acid used in making the test. 

58. The centrifuge. 

This is a machine for whorling the bottles. It consists of a 
drum about twenty inches in diameter with sockets on the cir- 
cumference for holding the bottles. The drum is encased in a 
jacket and is driven by a crank or pulley and gear, or by a steam 
motor. 

59. To make the test. 

The milk to be tested must be thoroughly stirred to get the 
fat globules evenly distributed. This can be done by pouring 
from one vessel to another several times. If in the composite 
test the cream is somewhat hardened, it can be dissolved by 
warming the milk a little, but this must be done with care as 
the milk will then churn easily. After the milk is thoroughly 
mixed draw it up into the pipette by suction with the mouth, and 
then quickly place the finger over the upper end of it. By let- 
ting air in slowly under the finger the milk will run out till it 
comes clown to the 17.6 c. c. mark. Then deliver the contents 
into the bottle. Next measure 17.5 c. c. sulphuric acid into the 
bottle, and by a circular motion mix the acid and milk thor- 
oughly till the milk is all dissolved, that is, till no clots are left. 

Then put the bottle in the centrifuge and whorl five min- 
utes. At the end of this time the fat will all be on the top of the 
liquid. Hot water is filled in to bring the fat up into the neck 
where the amount can be read on the scale. It is whorled an- 
other minute to bring the fat all into the neck in a solid mass. 
It must be read before it gets cold or in a perfectly liquid condi- 
tion. The bulletin describing the test says 140° F. Better re- 
sults may be obtained by first filling to the neck and whorling, 
and then filling into the neck for the final whorling. 

Several points of caution should be observed to get uni- 
formlv clear readings and reliable tests. 




Hand-power Centrifuge, covered. 



Hand-power Centrifuge, uncovered, 

showing position of bottles 

in Dockets. 





Troemner's P.alanee, for testing 
cheese. 



Steam Turbine Test, with steam 

gauge and hot water 

attachment. 



26 Cheese Making. 

60. Strength of acid. 

First the acid should be commercial sulphuric acid of a 
specific gravity of 1.82 to 1.83. If too strong the fat will be 
charred and there will be black specks in the fat. If too weak, 
there will be either white curdy matter with the fat or a clear 
test and not all of the fat. Dairy supply houses now furnish a 
hydrometer for testing the specific gravity of the acid. If it is 
1.81 it is too weak, and if over 1.83 too strong. If the acid is not 
too much too strong or too weak the difficulty can be obviated 
by using a little more or less as the case may require. One 
should observe the color of the fat. It ought to be a deep straw 
or yellow color. If white or light colored the acid is weak, if 
black it is too strong. As a general thing there is little diffi- 
culty in getting good acid. 

Dr. Babcock has invented an automatic acid measure which 
will fill the bottles with the right amount directly from the acid 
bottle as fast as the bottles can be shaken. They should be 
shaken one at a time and not in a tray or in the machine, to- 
gether, as in that case the milk in some bottles is not thoroughly 
dissolved. 

The acid should go to the bottom of the bottle without 
mixing with the milk till the final shaking. If it mixes par- 
tially and then is allowed to stand, part of milk will get the 
effect of the acid too strongly, will be charred, and appear in the 
fat as black specks. 

61. Speed of the centrifuge. 

The speed of the ordinary tester, which is about eighteen 
inches in diameter, should be about one thousand revolutions 
per minute. The fat is forced to the top of the liquid by the 
centrifugal pressure, and unless this pressure is sufficient all 
the fat will not be separated. If the speed is too great the bot- 
tles will fly to pieces. Dr. Babcock does not recommend a 
steam turbine test unless there is a speed indicator attached. 
A good many of these machines are supplied with steam gauges, 
but a steam gauge only indicates the pressure applied to the 
drum, and does not tell the speed. 

62. Reading the fat. 

The column of fat should be read from the bottom line, 
where it meets the water, to the highest point where it joins the 
glass. The upper surface is curved, and quite often the test is 



Milk Test'i'ng. 27 

read low by reading only to the lower part of the curve. It 
should be read as high as the fat goes. The same thing applies 
when reading tests of whey. It is quite often read two-tenths 
when four-tenths is the amount present. A pair of dividers will 
aid greatly. Open them to the full length of the fat column, 
then place the lower point on the zero line, and the upper point 
will show the per cent present at a glance. When reading with- 
out dividers errors in subtraction may occur. 

63. Testing cheese. 

Cheese may be tested by the Babcock test for fat as well as 
milk. In making a milk test we take 17.6 c. c, or 18 grams. 
Cheese contains about one-third fat. so that we cannot take 18 
grams ; but if we balance the bottle on a small scale, such as 
druggists use for prescriptions, and weigh in four or five grams 
of cheese, there will be a convenient amount for the test. The 
cheese can be cut into small strips which will drop down the 
neck of the bottle. Then add fifteen cubic centimeters of boiling 
water and a few drops of ammonia, and shake till the cheese is 
dissolved into a creamy consistency. When the bottle is cold 
add acid, and test as though it were milk. The reading of the 
fat is then multiplied by — ^- , a being the weight of the cheese 
taken. The quotient will be the per cent of fat in the cheese. 
If we weighed out five grams of cheese, and the reading of the 
fat is 7.1, we have (7.1 X 18) -f- 5, or 25.5 % fat in the cheese. 

A little balance with weights and a bar, reading to one- 
tenth of a gram, known as Troemner's balance, is sold by chemi- 
cal supply houses for about eight dollars. 

64. Qnevenne lactometer. 

As has been stated, the Quevenne Lactometer reads specific 
gravities directly. On the scale are a set of figures reading 
from 15 down to 40. These figures mean thousandths, that is, 
30 means 1.030 specific gravity. If we have a barrel that will 
hold 1,000 lbs. of water at 60° F., and fill it with milk that reads 
30 on our lactometer, we would have 1,030 lbs. of milk in the 
barrel. Now, if the milk is heated up above 60°, one-tenth of 
a pound will flow over the top for each degree above 60° F., and 
likewise for everv degre the milk is lowered, a tenth of a pound 
more can be put into the barrel. Sixty has been taken as an 
arbitrary standard of temperature for specific gravity of milk, 
and we must temper the milk near to that point. If it varies a 



28 Cheese Making. 

few degrees, the reading can be corrected by adding or sub- 
tracting one-tenth to the reading of the lactometer for every 
degree of variation in temperature. Thus : if the lactometer 
reading is 32, and the temperature 05°, add .5 to 32, which would 
make the corrected reading for 60° 32.5. The best lactometers 
have a thermometer connected, and it is not advisable to use 
any other. 

65. Board of Health lactometer. 

The Board of Health Lactometer has an arbitrary scale 
reading from to 120; 100 is a specific gravity of 1.029, which 
corresponds to 29 on the Ouevenne scale. This is the lowest 
specific gravity known for pure milk, the average being about 
1.032 sp. g. This scale can be converted into the Ouevenne 
scale by multiplying the reading by .29. By so doing one can 
use the Board of Health instrument if a Ouevenne is not avail- 
able. 

66*. Detecting watered milk. 

The solids other than fat make the milk denser and raise 
the lactometer, while the fat makes it lighter and lowers the in- 
strument. Each per cent of fat lowers it seven-tenths of a de- 
gree. If we multiply the per cent of fat found by the Babcock 
test and add the product to the lactometer reading it will give 
the reading of the milk if the fat were not present. This is the 
way to eliminate the effect of the fat. If the specific gravity of 
the other solids is divided by 3.8, the result will be per cent of 
solids not fat. 

For instance, the lactometer reading is 31.5, the tempera- 
ture 65°, and the fat 4 per cent, what is the per cent of solids not 
fat? 

31.5 + .5 = 32 + (4 X ■' = 2.8^ — 34.8 -~ 3.8 = 9.10 
-4- % solids not fat. 

If the solids not fat run below 8.5 per cent fat it is very 
poor milk and may be watered. 

If 8.5 per cent solids not fat be taken as a basis for pure 
milk, and we find but 7.00 per cent, the way to get the amount 
of water added is readily found by proportion : 
;.0:8.5::.r : ]<><> 
S.5.r = 700 
x = .832 + 



Milk Testing. 



29 



From which 82.3+% is the milk found to be present in the 
sample or 17.7 per cent water has been added. 

When patrons are paid by the fat test it does not pay to go 
to the trouble of hauling water to the factory. 

In paying for milk by test, composite samples are tested as 
follows : 

67. Composite samples. 

The samples should be saved from each patron's milk every 
morning by stirring up the milk in the weigh can with a dipper. 
An ounce cup is then filled with the milk, and turned into the 
sample jar. 

68. Milk thief. 

A still better way is to take the sample with a milk thief, 
which is a long tube three-fourths of an inch in diameter, with 
a valve in the bottom. By lowering this into the 
weigh can a sample of the milk all the way down 
runs in at the bottom and the valve is closed by 
striking the bottom of the can. The tube is then 
drawn out and emptied through the upper end into 
the sample jar. 

69. Sample jars should be marked to prevent 
mistakes. 

Each jar has the number of the patron mark- 
ed on it with asphalt paint, or in some other sub- 
stantial way. 

70. Milk samples, how preserved. 

A small quantity of potassium bichromate, 
enough to color a jar of milk a bright yellow, is 
put into the jar, before any milk is put into it, and 
this chemical will preserve the milk for a week or 
more. 

Valve end of Sco- „ . ... .11, 111 11 

veil's Milk Thief Corrosive sublimate tablets sold by dealers 

used at World's ... . . .... . , 

Fair. in dairy supplies may possibly give more satisfac- 

tory results, but are very poisonous and must be handled with 
care. 

At the end of a week the composite sample of each patron's 
milk is tested, and the reading of the Babcock test is the per- 
centage of fat in the whole of the week's milk. 

For method of making dividends according to test, see 
Chapter XIII. 





30 



Cheese Making. 




Weigh Can. 



QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER III. 

1. When and by whom was the Babcoek milk lest invented? 
2. Describe the test bottle. 3. What is the volume included in 
the scale of the milk bottle and how is it divided? 4. What 
is the volume of the pipette and what weight of milk will it hold? 
5. What is the volume of the acid measure? 6. What is the 



diameter of the centrifuge drum? 



How is a test made ? 8. 



What kind and how strong- is the acid used? 9. At what speed 
should the centrifuge be run? 10. Describe how the fat read- 
ing- should be done? 11. How can cheese be tested with the 
Babcoek test? 12. Describe the Quevenne lactometer. 13. 
Describe the Board of Health lactometer and state its relation 
to the Quevenne. 14. How much does each per cent of fat 
lower the lactometer reading? 15. Give method and rule for 
detecting watered milk? lfi. What is a composite sample? 
17. Describe the Scovell milk-sampling tube. IS. How can 
composite samples be nreserved? 



CHAPTER IV. 
ENZYMES. 



71. Two kinds of ferments. 

As has been previously described, bacteria are the cause of 
the breaking up of organic compounds into still other com- 
pounds ; as for example, milk sugar into lactic acid, or into alco- 
hol and gas. Such changes or fermentations are termed organ- 
ized ferments because they are the result of the growth of organ- 
isms. 

There is another class of changes which take place as a re- 
sult, not of bacterial growth, but of the action of a chemical sub- 
stance known in contradistinction to the organized ferments, as 
unorganized ferments or enzymes. Such for instance is a sub- 
stance found in the saliva known as ptyalin, which has the prop- 
erty of changing starch to sugar. In the stomach is found 
pepsin which has the property of changing solid proteids to sol- 
uble peptones, and in the pancreatic juices is found trypsin, an- 
other enzyme with properties similar to pepsin. These enzymes 
are secreted by the protoplasm of cells which make up the par- 
ticular glands where these enzymes are usually found. Bacteria 
have this property of secreting enzymes, and as our knowledge 
of fermentations increases it may be found that the changes we 
now suppose to be due to the direct action of the living proto- 
plasm in the cells of plants and animals, are really due to en- 
zymes secreted by the protoplasm. Enzymes have some char- 
acteristics in common in the way they behave under changes of 
temperature. They are most active in the neighborhood of 
blood heat (100° F.) and cease to act at low temperatures, while 
at high temperatures (150° to 200°) they are destroyed. The 
enzymes do not seem to be used up in their action, but will work 
over and over again. 

72. Galactase. 

Babcock and Russell have recently discovered the presence 
of an enzyme in milk to which they have given the name galac- 

31 



32 Cheese Making. 

tase. When milk was rendered sterile by chloroform, upon 
standing it would curdle as though it contained rennet, and then 
the casein was digested, that is, it was changed to soluble pep- 
tones. Galactase is killed at a temperature of 180° F. Its 
optimum temperature is about 100° F. They have proven that 
it is at least the major cause of the breaking down of the casein 
in cheese and its change into soluble peptones ; that is. it is the 
main cause of the ripening of the cheese. 
1'i. Rennet extract. 

Since very early times an extract from the calf's stomach 
has been used to curdle milk in the manufacture of cheese. 
Such an extract contains two enzymes, one rennin, or the lab of 
Hammersten, having the property of coagulating the milk, and 
the other, pepsin, which afterward digests the curd. 

74. Rennet — how preserved. 

The commercial rennet is a calf's stomach which was taken 
from the call at the time it was slaughtered, and cleaned, and 
dried. 

The best rennets come from Bavaria. Cheese makers used 
to buy the rennets and make their own extracts as needed, and 
the majority of Swiss cheese makers do so now, but extracts, 
powders and tablets are now manufactured on an extensive 
scale, and are much more uniform and reliable than the old 
homemade extracts, as each new lot of the latter must neces- 
sarily be different in strength from the last. 

The preparation of rennet powder is too complicated a pro- 
cess for a cheese maker to follow, but one can make his own 
extract for the season, if lie wishes, as follows : 

75. How rennet extract is made. 

Prepare a sufficient number of rennets, say five hundred, 
by splitting them open so that the water can get into them. Then 
take an oak barrel and put the rennets into it, and fill with 
water until they are well covered. 

Possibly the barrel might be nearly filled with water, but 
one should not have more water than is necessary to dissolve 
the ferment. 

A little salt should be added to the water, say three pounds 
of salt to one hundred pounds of water. The rennets should 
be stirred up and pounded every day, to facilitate the solution 
of the ferment, and at the end of a week the liquid should be 



Enzymes. 33 

drawn off and the rennets wrung out with a clothes wringer. 
They should be put into water again and soaked for another 
week, and the same operation gone through with. As a usual 
thing, the ferment has not all been extracted from the stomachs 
till they have been soaked for four weeks. The liquid that has 
been obtained by soaking the rennets should be filtered through 
clean straw, charcoal and sand, and then an excess of salt added 
to preserve it. 

The extract should be clear though of a dark color. The 
first sign of the decomposition of rennet extract is a muddy ap- 
pearance. 

If extract is ever prepared by the cheese-maker, enough to 
last the whole season should be made in the spring when the 
weather is cool, and then it should be kept in a cool place. 

76. Reliable brands to be preferred. 

The surest way of getting extract that can be depended on, 
is to buy some reliable brand. 

The practice of preparing extract every few days is wrong, 
as the strength of each new lot will not be like the last, and if 
used in about the same quantities the cheese will not cure evenly. 
The use of whey as a solvent for the rennet is wrong for reasons 
that are obvious after considering the subject of organized 
ferments. 

A comparison of extracts and their relative value, will be 
taken up after the rennet test has been explained. 

We will now enter upon a study of the properties of rennin, 
the curdling ferment of milk. 

77. Effect of heat on rennet. 

Rennet will not curdle milk at a very low temperature, but 
as the temperature is raised it will begin to work and act with 
increasing rapidity until at a point above 100° F. it is injured. 
By putting cold rennet into warm milk it may work faster up 
to 120° or 130° F., but when the rennet in weak solutions is 
heated to 105° F. it begins to be injured. A strong solution may 
be held at 150° for fifteen minutes without being entirely de- 
stroyed, but it will be rendered much weaker. These high tem- 
peratures do not destroy the power of the rennet instantly but 
gradually. 



31 Cheese Making. 

78. Rennet does not exhaust itself. 

As has been said concerning enzymes, rennet does not seem 
to spend its energy, but will act over and over again. If a 
quantity of milk is coagulated and the whey applied to a like 
quantity of milk, the milk will be coagulated ; this could be done 
indefinitely, if it were not for getting a larger volume of whey 
than we have of milk. 

79. Effect of acidity on the action of rennet. 

It has been said that the rapidity in the action of rennet is 
greatly affected by the temperature of the milk, but we will find, 
if the temperature of the milk is held constant, the more lactic 
acid there is in the milk the faster the rennet will act, or if any 
acid be artificially added to the milk in quantities not sufficient 
to coagulate it, the action of the rennet will be hastened, and 
on the other hand if alkali be added to the milk, the action of 
the rennet will be retarded. 

80. Rennet extracts not alike. 

Another cause for varying rapidity of action is the differ- 
ence in the strength of the rennet extract used. Rennets vary 
as to the amount of ferment contained in them, and it is very 
unlikely that two lots of extracts will be exactly alike. 

81. Rennet action dependent on three thing's. 

It has been shown that the rapidity with which rennet 
coagulates milk is dependent on : 

1. The strength of the rennet extract. 

2. The temperature of the milk. 

3. The acidity of the milk. 

Now if the same rennet is used at the same temperature of 
the milk each time, the variation in the rapidity with which it 
coagulates the milk, must be due solely to the acidity or ripe- 
ness of the milk. 

82. J. B. Harris discovers the rennet test. 

About ten years ago J. B. Harris conceived this idea, and 
used a teacupful of milk from the vat, to which he added a tea- 
spoonful of rennet and noted the number of seconds required 
to coagulate the milk. When the milk was ripened down to a 
certain number of seconds, he found that he could foretell ap- 
proximately the time that it would take for acid to develop. 



Enzymes. 



35 



83. Rennet a powerful agent. 

But if one stops a moment to figure on it, he will see that 
rennet is a very powerful agent. If one uses four ounces of 
extract to one thousand pounds of milk, it is one part of 
rennet to four thousand of milk, and sometimes the propor- 
tion will be as wide as one to sixteen thousand. It will be 
easily seen that since the rennet is such a powerful agent, it is 
not likely to be an entirely accurate test where a teaspoon is 
used for measuring the rennet, for then it would be difficult 
to measure exactly twice alike. Therefore, in place of the tea- 
spoon, a minim or dram graduate was substituted, and for the 
tea cup an eight ounce glass graduate such as druggists use. 
This was much better than the other crude apparatus for mak- 
ing the test. 




10 cz. 



GLlcuss GUro-dccaies 



84. Glass graduates for measuring. 

But the minim graduate is funnel shaped, and the top being 
broad in proportion to its volume, the chances for error are still 
too great in measuring. In actual practice through haste in 
making the test, two or three drops of extract were likely to be 
left in the narrow bottom of the minim graduate, and the maker 



36 



Cheese Making. 



would be confused in not getting the results he expected by de- 
pending on it. 

J. H. Monrad then proposed a new set of apparatus, which, 
though not so simple, leaves less chance for error. 
85. The Monrad rennet test. 

The apparatus for the Monrad test consists of a 160 c. c. 
tin cylinder for measuring the milk, a 5 c. c. pipette, a 50 c. c. 
glass flask, and a half pint tin basin. By filling the tin cylinder 
full it always gives the right measure of milk quickly. Meas- 
uring the milk in a glass graduate is difficult, as it is hard to get 
the milk just to the mark, and if the glass is covered with white 
milk it is difficult to see the mark. 




Monrad Rennet Test. 

The rennet is first measured with the 5 c. c. pipette. A 
pipette (as will be seen by reference to the illustration) is a 
glass tube with a mark on it indicating the volume of 5 c. c, and 
the rennet can very easily be measured to the mark, and the 
tube being narrow makes the measurement accurate. The ren- 
net in the pipette is delivered into the 50 c. c. flask, and what 
little rennet adheres to the inside of the pipette is rinsed into 
the flask. This is then filled with water to the 50 c. c. mark 



Enzymes. 



37 



on the neck, and the solution mixed by shaking. The milk, 
the temperature of which should be S6° F., measured in the 
tin cylinder, is emptied into the half pint basin, and 5 c. c. of 
the dilute extract is measured into the 160 c. c. of milk, and the 
number of seconds required to curdle it noted. If a few specks 
of charcoal are scattered on the milk and the milk started into 
motion around the dish with a thermometer, the instant of curd- 
ling can be noted by the stopping of the specks. They will stop 
so suddenly as to seem to start back in the opposite direction. 
86. Use thermometer to stir milk. 

By using a thermometer, the temperature can be con- 
stantly watched ; and if the temperature should fall, it can quickly 
be brought back to 86° F. by setting the basin in a pail of warm 
water for five seconds. 




A — Graduated Cup. 

B — 1 c. c. Pipette. 

C — Glass 1 in which to dilute the rennet. 

D — Spattle for stirring the milk. 

87. The Marsehall rennet test. 

Another ingenious form of rennet test which is used in a 
great many factories is the Marsehall test, as it keeps its own 
time. It consists of an ounce bottle with a mark on it to indi- 
cate 20 c. c. ; and a spathula for stirring the milk ; a 1 c. c. 
pipette is used for measuring rennet into the bottle in which it 
is diluted up to the mark on the bottle ; a test basin, which is 
a vessel of a little over a pint capacity, on the inner surface of 



38 Cheese Making. 

which is a scale beginning with at the top and numbering by 
half divisions to 7 near the bottom of the vessel. A hole in 
the bottom of the vessel is fitted with a cork in which is inserted 
a glass tube of very fine bore. 

88. How to use the test. 

To make a test the vessel is filled with milk at the desired 
temperature, and when the milk has drained through the little 
glass tube until the top is at the mark, the diluted rennet is 
stirred in with the spathula. When the rennet thickens the 
milk sufficiently no more milk will run out and the operator 
notes the point on the scale down to which the milk has run. 
The riper the milk the quicker will the milk thicken with a 
corresponding less reading on the scale. 

89. 3Iarschall tests not alike. 

Unfortunately the caliber of the glass tubes in the bottom 
of these tests varies so that varying amounts of milk will run 
out from different Marschall tests. One may compare results 
with the same test from one day to another, but a great deal 
of confusion results from comparing different Marschall tests. 

90. Errors to be avoided with Marschall apparatus. 

1. As there is no thermometer included in the Marschall 
apparatus the operator is likely to forget that temperature 
affects the rennet action. One should always temper the vessel 
before using in cold weather, and should carefully observe the 
temperature of the milk, both when starting the test and at the 
time of coagulation. A few degrees in temperature will modify 
the results very materially. 

2. One should exercise great care in running the milk into 
the milk in the vat. Where a large number of tests are made 
the rennet in the vat may coagulate the milk. 

3. Do not compare the results with two pieces of apparatus 
without first testing them on the same milk. 

QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER IV. 

1. What are the two general classes of ferments? 2. What 
are enzymes and where do they originate? 3. What is the 
effect of temperature on enzymes ? 4. Who discovered galac- 
tase and where is it found? 5. Describe galactase. 6. What is 
a rennet ? 7. How are rennets preserved ? 8. What is rennet 



Enzymes. 39 

extract? 9. Where do the best rennets come from? 10. How 
is rennet extract made? 11. Why are reliable brands of extract 
to be preferred ? 12. What is the effect of heat on rennet action ? 
13. What is the effect of acidity on rennet action? 14. On 
what three factors is the rapidity of rennet action dependent? 
15. Who invented the rennet test ? 16. Why are glass graduates 
used in a rennet test inaccurate? 17. Describe the Monrad test. 
18. Describe the Marschall rennet test. 19. In what respect are 
Marschall tests not alike ? 20. What errors are to be avoided 
in using a Marschall test? 



CHAPTER V. 

The Deportment oe Rexxet. 



91. Experiments in rennet action. 

That the student may better comprehend the deportment 
of rennet under different conditions, a few statements are made 
about the effect of the various conditions to which it may be 
subjected, together with experiments suggested with the ap- 
paratus used in the Monrad test, for demonstrating the truth 
of the statements made. 

92. Effect of acid and alkali. 

Acid in the milk accelerates and alkali retards coagulation. 

Experiment (a). Make a test of a sample of milk, observing 
carefully all conditions as to temperature, strength of rennet, 
etc. Mark down in a note book the result. Xow add a small 
quantity of dilute hydrochloric acid to the milk, being careful 
to stir it constantly while slowly adding the acid. If in a labor- 
atory where decinormal solutions of acid and alkali are avail- 
able, use about 25 c. c. of acid to a quart of milk, and note the 
number of seconds required to coagulate when a test is made, 
carefully observing all of the conditions for making a test 
properly. 

Experiment (b). Repeat the experiment with an increased' 
quantity of acid added to the milk. 

Experiment (c). Add slowly a small quantity of dilute soda 
lye, being careful to stir the milk while adding it, and then 
make a test as before. Keep careful notes in your note book. 

Experiment (d). Make a rennet test of a sample of milk 
and set it where it will remain warm. Make tests half an hour 
or an hour later and note that less time is required for coagula- 
tion. This is due to the ripening of the milk — or as the scientist 
looks at it, the bacteria present have been turning the milk sugar 
into lactic acid. 
9.3. Effect of water in milk. 

Diluting milk with water retards coagulation. 

Experiment (a) Make a careful rennet test of a sample of 
milk. Next take one part of water and three parts of the milk 

40 



The Deportment of Rennet. 41 

in question. Mix them and then make a rennet test of the 
mixture. 

Experiment (b). Repeat the experiment with one part of 
water and two parts of milk. 

Experiment (c). Repeat the experiment with one part of 
water and one part of milk. Can you determine any law gov- 
erning the rate of coagulation in relation to the amount of 
water present? Try these experiments with milks of different 
acidity. 

94. The effect of salt (NaCl). 

Salt in the milk checks the action of rennet, five per cent 
stopping it altogether. 

Experiment (a). Make a rennet test of a sample of milk, 
and make a careful note of the result. Now add by weight one 
per cent of salt and make a careful rennet test. How does the 
salt affect the test? Try the same experiment with two, three, 
four and five per cent of salt in the milk. 

95. The effect of temperature. 

Raising the temperature hastens, and lowering it retards 
rennet action. 

Experiment (a). Make a rennet test at the standard tem- 
perature of $G° P., and write it down in your note book. Now 
make tests at 95°, 100°, 110°, 120°, 130° and 140°. 

Experiment (b). Make a test at 86° and then try tests at 
80°, 70°, 60° , 50° and 40°. If much time is consumed in mak- 
ing the tests, the student should make occasional tests at 86° F. 
to detect the rate of ripening of the milk. 

96. Effect of anaesthetics. 

Anaesthetics, like chloroform and ether, suspend proto- 
plasmic action but do not affect enzymes. In this way it is 
possible to distinguish between organized and unorganized 
ferments. 

Experiment (a). Make a rennet test of a sample of milk and 
note the number of seconds required. Now add about three 
per cent of chloroform to the sample and shake it in a bottle or 
cylinder. Next make a test of it. It curdles the milk and ren- 
net is therefore an enzyme. 



42 Cheese Making. 

97. Thermal destruction point. 

At about 104° or 105° F. rennet in weak solutions is de- 
stroyed. 

Experiment (a). Make a rennet test of a sample of milk 
and note the number of seconds required. Next heat the rennet 
test solution of rennet to 100° for ten minutes and try a test 
with it on the same milk. Try heating it to 105°, 110°, 115° 
and 120° for five minutes and make tests after each heating. 
Do not forget to record results in your note book. 

Experiment (b). Note the length of time required to co- 
agulate 160 c. c. of milk at 86° F. with 5 c. c. of strong com- 
mercial rennet extract. Next heat a portion of this strong 
rennet to 150° F. for five minutes and then note the length of 
time required for coagulating 160 c. c. of milk at 86° F. with 
5 c. c. of it. 

98. Effect of strength of rennet solution. 

For a long time it was supposed that as the strength of the 
rennet solution was increased, the length of time required for 
coagulation was inversely shortened. This however, is not 
true. 

Experiment (a). Make a rennet test of a sample of milk. 

1. Make up a new solution of rennet, using two 5 c. c. 
pipettes of rennet in the 50 c. c. flask. This makes the rennet 
solution double in strength, but the time required for coagula- 
tion in a test is what ? 

2. Make up a solution with three pipettes or 15 c. c. of 
rennet in the 50 c. c. and make a test. 

3. Make up a solution with four pipettes or 20 c. c. in the 
50 c. c. What are the results ? 

4. Try it with 20 c. c. of strong rennet diluted to 50 c. c. 
It is suggested that the student secure a piece of charting paper 
and chart out the results here obtained. If the rate of coagula- 
tion was diminished inversely in proportion to the increase in 
strength the results of these tests would when recorded, make 
a diagonal straight line across the chart, whereas they really 
make a curved line. 

99. Soluble calcium salts required for rennet action. 

It has been previously stated (8) that the soluble salts of 
calcium must be present in the milk or the rennet will not act. 



The Deportment of Rennet. 43 

Experiment (a). Make a rennet test of a sample of milk. 
Add a small quantity of a dilute solution of calcium chloride 
(Ca CI 2 ) to the milk and make another test. The coagulation 
will be accelerated. How much? 

Experiment (b). Heat a portion of the sample of milk to 
190° F. for ten minutes, cool it down and make a test. It will 
not coagulate for the calcium salts have been rendered insoluble 
by the heat. 

Experiment (c). To a pint of the original sample of milk add 
25 c. c. of a strong solution of ammonium oxalate, and make a 
rennet test. It will not coagulate because the soluble calcium 
salts have been changed to insoluble calcium oxalate. 
100. Effect of milk preservatives. 

There is a very pernicious practice among dairymen of 
using antiseptics to keep milk from souring. Among them are 
preservaline (boracic acid) and formaldehyde solution sold under 
the name of -freezene, etc. These substances not only check 
the necessary bacterial fermentations in the manufacture of the 
cheese, but affect the rennet action. 

Experiment (a). Make a rennet test of a sample of milk. 
Then add 1 per cent of boracic acid to the sample and make a 
rennet test. Try varying quantities of the boracic acid. 

Experiment (b). Make a rennet test of a sample of milk 
and then add one per cent of formaline (formaldehyde solu- 
tion) to the milk and make a test. Try it with one-tenth of 
one per cent of formaline in the milk. 

Question : Should milk doctored with preservatives be re- 
ceived at a cheese factory? 

QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER V. 

1. What is the effect of acid in the milk on rennet action? 
2. What is the effect of alkali on rennet action? 3. What is 
the effect of water in the milk on rennet action ? 4. What is the 
effect of salt in the milk on rennet action ? 5. What is the effect 
of temperature on rennet action ? 6. At what temperature is 
rennet destroyed? 7. What is the effect of anaesthetics on ren- 
net? 8. Is the time of curdling milk inversely proportional to 
the strength of the rennet solution? 9. What part of the ash 
of the milk is required for rennet action ? 10. What is the effect 
of boracic acid on rennet action? 11. What is the effect of 
formaline on rennet action? 



CHAPTER VI. 

( 1 hkddar Cheese. 



101. History of Cheddar cheese. 

For some centuries cheese has been made in the farm dairies 
in England and Scotland, and the people that came to America 
continued the manufacture at home of their surplus milk into 
cheese. The process varied in different dairies and our British 
cousins have been particularly jealous of their way of making, 
being careful not to give away any of their secrets as they be- 
lieved them to be. The term Cheddar came from a town of that 
name near Bristol. 
1012. Rise of factory system in New York. 

The factory system started in America. Jesse Williams, 
of Oneida County, New York, was the first factory operator. 
In 1851 he and his sons, located on different farms, brought 
their milk together and it was made into cheese under his 
supervision. From this start the factory system developed in 
New York and was carried into other states and Canada. 

103. In Ohio. 

In Ohio the first factory was built by Mr. Budlong, at 
Chardon, Geauga County, in 1860. The second one was built by 
Mr. Bartlett at Munson, Geauga County, in 1861. In 1862 John 
I. Eldridge built the third one in Aurora township, Portage 
County. The building is yet standing, but is not in use at this 
time as a new building close by has taken its place. In 1863 
Hurd Bros, built a factory at Aurora Station, which has been 
in continual operation to the present time. After 1863 the fac- 
tories multiplied in Ohio very rapidly. 

104. In Wisconsin. 

In Wisconsin the factory system started in about 1861, when 
Chester Hazen started a factory at Ladoga, Fond Du Lac 
County, and Steven Faville started one near Watertown. At 
the present time there are about sixteen hundred factories in 
the state, of which number probably about eleven hundred make 
Cheddar cheese, the others being brick, Swiss and Limburger. 

44 



Cheddar Cheese. 



45 



105. Two processes of manufacture. 

There are two processes of manufacture, one being the 
granular system, in which the curd is kept in the granular form 
from the time the whey is drawn until put to press ; and the 
matting system, in which the curd is allowed to mat into a solid 
mass as soon as the whey is removed, and is afterward milled to 
get it into a condition for salting before pressing. 






Farrington's apparatus for determining quickly milk of .2 per cent acidity. 

106. Cheddar system proper. 

The latter system in which the curd is matted is termed 
the Cheddar System. It produces a more meaty texture and 
uniform grade of cheese and is superseding the granular system. 

The Cheddar system as improved in the United States and 
Canada has been introduced into Scotland and England through 
Mr. Drummond, an American, in charge of the Kilmarnock 
dairy school. 

The following pages will treat of the best methods as we 
know them todav for makin°- Cheddar cheese. 



F'l'RST STEPS IN CHEESE MAKING. 
107. Test for over-ripe milk. 

Milk that has more than two-tenths of one per cent, of 
lactic acid should not be received for cheese makinsr. But as 



46 Cheese Making. 

milk will not taste sour until there is three-tenths of one per 
cent of acid in it, it is difficult to know by the taste when to 
reject such milk. 

The Farrington acid test can here be brought into use and 
the discrimination quickly made. The apparatus consists of a 
white teacup, an eight-ounce salt mouthed bottle with a cork 
in it, and a measure made by soldering a wire handle onto a 
No. 10 brass cartridge shell. Eight Farrington alkaline tablets 
are dissolved in the eight-ounce bottle of water, which makes 
a red liquid. A measure of the suspected milk is put into the 
tea cup and then two measures of the red liquid added. If on 
stirring it, the pink shade remains, there is not two-tenths of a 
per cent of acid present and the milk can be accepted. If on the 
other hand the pink color disappears there is too much acid 
present and the milk should be rejected. 
10S. Stir milk to keep cream down. 

While the milk is being received it should be stirred in the 
vat to keep the cream down. As soon as the milk has all been 
received and the quantity figured up, the steam should be 
turned on and the milk heated to 86° F., and a rennet test made. 
If the cheese maker is suspicious that the milk may be over 
ripe, he should make a rennet test before the milk in the vat is 
heated up to 86° F., by taking his sample for the rennet test in 
the basin in which the test is made and warming it up in a pail 
of warm water. 

If the milk is found to be over ripe, he will have to hurry 
the process to keep ahead of the fermentation. On the other 
hand, if he finds the milk very sweet, and that he will have to 
wait an hour or more for it to ripen down, he should use a 
starter. 
109. Ripening the milk. 

If the milk is ripened so as to coagulate in the same num- 
ber of seconds each day, one can tell very closely the time when 
the whey can be drawn off from the curd. It should be ripened 
to a point where in two hours from the time the rennet is 
added to the milk there will be "one-eighth of an inch of acid" 
on the curd, as we shall see later on. 

With the rennet extract we have been using at the Dairy 
School, the milk when ripened to thirty seconds works off in 
about the right time, but the extract is very strong, one ounce 



Cheddar Cheese. 47 

being sufficient to coagulate one thousand pounds of milk in 
twenty minutes. If however, our rennet extract was so weak 
that it would take four ounces of it to coagulate one thousand 
pounds of the same milk in twenty minutes, it would be only 
one-fourth as strong as the rennet we have been using, and 
the milk would then have to be ripened so as to coagulate in 
one hundred and twenty seconds instead of thirty. 

110. How to ripen milk to the right point. 

Starting in with the season's work the cheese maker has 
nothing to guide him as to the ripeness of the milk, simply 
because he does not know the strength of the rennet extract at 
his disposal. The first day he makes cheese, he must make 
a rennet test of his milk at the time he sets it and then observe 
how the milk acts. If the milk is too sweet, he can calculate 
about how much riper it must be to work just right, and in a 
few days he will have the matter entirely under his control. 
Cheese makers should never neglect to use the rennet test, for 
it enables them to judge definitely the condition of their milk. 

When a maker is troubled with tainted milk it is often 
necessary to ripen a little lower than with good milk, for the 
bad flavor, as we have already learned, is due to some harmful 
variety of bacteria which choke out the lactic ferments. 

111. Definition of a starter. 

A starter is simply a small quantity of milk in which the 
lactic fermentation has been allowed to develop, and there are 
therefore millions upon millions of the desired kinds of bacteria 
in it, and when these are put into the milk in the vat, they in- 
crease very rapidly and hasten the ripening of the milk. 

112. What to use for a starter. 

The starter should be saved from some patron's milk from 
the morning or evening before, and should always be the best 
flavored milk, for the whole vat will be made like it. 

By adding about half water to the starter milk in the even- 
ing it will not curdle so but that it will mix nicely in the vat. 

From what has been previously said (30) it will be ob- 
served that the milk selected as above is not sure to be the kind 
of milk desired. If the Wisconsin curd test is used the milk 
that habitually gives good curds can be selected.* Even in that 
case a bad fermentation may get in. The surest way of getting 
a good starter is to use a lactic ferment culture. 



48 Cheese Making. 

113. Lactic ferment starter. 

Lactic ferment is a culture placed on the market by Chr. 
Hansen's Laboratory, Little Falls, N. Y. It is sold in large and 
small bottles. The small bottles cost less and are just as good 
as the large ones, for we can grow the culture ourselves if we 
once get a start. One or two quarts of milk should be selected 
as above and heated to 200° F. for fifteen minutes and then 
cooled to 70° F. The contents of the bottle should be added to 
the pasturized milk. In twenty-four hours, if kept warm, the 
milk will be sour and just at the curdling point. 

Another lot of milk, in quantity as much as required for a 
two per cent starter in our vat, should be selected as before 
and heated to 200° F. for fifteen minutes, and then cooled to 
70° F. and the startaline added. In twenty-four hours it will 
be ready to use. A little is saved each day to make new starter. 
The starter should always be handled in sterile vessels. If care is 
taken not to contaminate the starter, it can be propagated in a 
very pure state through a wdiole season. Carelessness in hand- 
ling it will infect it with other germs, which will spoil it and it will 
be necessary to start over again. 

114. What not to use for a starter. 

A starter should not be saved from the vat of milk nor the 
whey, for the starter will then be likely to contain all sorts of 
germs, good, bad and indifferent, and these will all be trans- 
mitted from one day's milk to the next ; in fact, a bad disease 
might be carried through the milk in this way for a whole 
season. Thick milk may be used for a starter, if one is hard 
pressed, but it is better not to let the starter get quite thick. If 
the starter is thick, it should be strained carefully through a cloth 
strainer, for if clots of thick starter get into the vat of milk, they 
will not be colored and may leave white specks in the curd. 

Milk should be ripened to a point where in two hours from 
the time the rennet is added to the milk, there will be one- 
eighth of an inch of acid on the curd. What is meant by an 
eighth of an inch of acid will be explained further on. 

115. Milk must not he too ripe. 

Milk should never be allowed to ripen to a point where it 
will work too fast. In such cases there will be too great a loss 
of fat in the whey, and a small yield of cheese. 



Cheddar Cheese. 



49 



116. Adding- the color. 

Until lately cheese color has been made from the annatto 
seed grown in South America. Cheaper and stronger color 
is now being made from aniline, a coal tar product. The public 
seems to be prejudiced against mineral coloring, but there is 
so little of it in the cheese that we doubt if it is injurious to 
health. Personally we like the looks of an uncolored cheese 
best. 

Different markets require different shades. It seems to be 
a general rule that the further south we go the higher the color 
that is required. Chicago calls for a straw color. St. Louis 
wants it higher, and New Orleans higher still. 

The color should be added before the rennet. It should 
be diluted with water and stirred in thoroughly. In the cheese 
it should not be of a reddish hue. 




BRANCH OF ANNATTO TREE. 
117. Setting the milk. 

Having gotten our milk into the proper condition we are 
now ready to set it. It should be set at 86° F. As sometimes 
happens, the milk may have accidentally been warmed up to 



50 Cheese Making. 

90°. We should rather set the milk at that temperature than 
wait to cool it down, for the milk will be ripening" while we delay 
setting it. The only objection to setting milk at 90° is that 
the curd hardens too fast to cut it conveniently. If it were 
not for that fact there would be no objection to setting it at 
98°. 

There is nothing to be gained by setting" milk at 82° and 
waiting" for it to curdle. If milk is over ripe time can be gained 
by setting" it at as high a temperature as it can be readily 
handled. 

For a fast curing cheese we should use enough rennet to 
curdle the milk in fifteen to twenty minutes ; and for a slow 
curing cheese enough to curdle in thirty to forty minutes. 

118. Kennet should be diluted. 

The rennet should be diluted, not with milk (why?) but 
with a dipperful or pailful of water, and then poured into the 
vat evenly from one end to the other. The water should be 
about 90° F. If above 100° F. the rennet will be weakened. 
The milk should have been thoroughly stirred just previous to 
adding the rennet, and then the rennet should be thoroughly 
mixed with the milk. The stirring should be done gently so 
that the fat will not separate from the milk. 

The milk should be kept in motion for several minutes ; 
the surface should then be stirred gently with the bottom of 
the dipper so that the cream will not rise on the surface, 
and the milk will set, or coagulate, and hold it down. The 
movement of the dipper should be kept up for about half the 
time it takes the milk to coagulate, and then a cover should 
be put over the vat to keep the surface of the milk from cooling 
off. 

119. When the curd is ready to cut. 

The curd is ready to cut when it will break clean before the 
finger. The index finger is thrust into the curd and pushed 
along through it about half an inch below the surface. The 
curd is first split by the thumb, and when the proper firmness 
is reached it will break as the finger is pushed along. If the 
break is clean, that is does not leave milky but clear whev in 
the break, the curd is readv to be cut. 



Cheddar Cheese. 51 

questions on chapter vi. 

1. State the history of Cheddar Cheese. 2. Where and 
by whom was the first cheese factory operated? 3. When and 
by whom were the first factories in Ohio built? 4. When and by 
whom were the first factories in Wisconsin built? 5. What are 
the two processes of manufacture? 6. What is the Cheddar 
system? 7. How much acid is allowable in milk for Cheddar 
cheese ? 8. Describe Farrington's rapid acid test. 9. To what 
point by the rennet test should milk be ripened? 10. How 
shall a maker determine at what point to set his milk ? 11. What 
is a starter? 12. How should milk for a starter be selected? 

13. What is a lactic ferment starter, and how is it prepared? 

14. Why should not whey or milk from the vat be used for a 
starter? 15. From what is cheese color made? 16. Describe 
the different shades of color required by different markets. 
17. At what temperature should milk be set, and why ? 18. Why 
should overripe milk be set at a high temperature? 19. Why 
should rennet be diluted before adding it to the milk? 20. When 
is the curd readv to cut? 



CHAPTER VII. 

Cutting axd Heatixg the Curd. 



120. Firming the curd. 

Through the work of heat and rennet the curd contracts 
and expels the whey. In order that this may be more readily 
done, we cut the curd into small cubes and raise the temperature. 
The pieces of curd must be of the same size and shape, so that 
they may expel the whey evenly. 

The term "cook" in use for the change brought about in the 
condition of a curd is not strictly correct, as the curd is not 
heated hot enough to induce the change ordinarily known as 
cooking. The term has, however, come into general use by 
cheese makers and when used by us the firming of the curd 
by heat is meant. 

121. How to cut a fast working curd. 

When we have a fast working or over ripe curd, it should be 
cut finer and heated faster than a normal working curd. 

The English cheese-makers used to break the curd, first 
with their hands, and then with wires, but the curd-knife has 
entirely superseded that method. There are two forms of knives 
used in the operation. 

122. Use of horizontal curd-knife. 

The first is the horizontal knife, which has eighteen or 
twenty blades. When it is drawn through the length of the 
vat. it will cut the curd into layers or blankets one-half inch 
thick, by six inches wide, by the length of the vat long. Care 
must be taken not to jam the curd, for if it is jammed it will 
be lost in the whey. The flat sides of the blades should not be 
forced into the curd to get the knife into a position to cut it, 
for they will jam the curd in so doing. 

123. How to insert the horizontal knife. 

The length of the knife is therefore held in a horizontal 
position, the upper end of the knife near the handle resting 
on the top of the end of the vat. The knife is then swung 

52 



Cutting and Heating the Curd. 



down into the curd, the edges of the blades cutting into the 
curd and taking a circular course till the knife has assumed a 
vertical position parallel with the end of the vat, the lower end 
of the knife resting on the bottom of the vat. In this move- 
ment we have not jammed the curd, but have the knife in a 
position to move it through the length of the vat and cut the 
curd into the layers. But these layers are only six inches wide 
and we will have to cut the whole vat of curd into these layers. 
Then keeping the knife in the curd we must turn it without 
breaking the curd, so that we can run the knife to the other 
end of the vat. Using the side of the knife next to the uncut 
curd as a center, we turn the knife around through 180° of a 
circle, and we are ready to carry the knife to the other end of 
the vat. 
124. How to take the knife out. 

When we have cut the vat of curd all up into blankets, 
the knife is taken out in the reverse order to which it went in. 

The horizontal knife is now laid aside and the operation 
finished with the perpendicular knife. The blades in this knife 
run in the direction of the longest dimension of the knife. 





Horizontal Knife. Perpendicular Knife. 

Unlike some cheese-makers, the maker should not wait 
here for the whey to rise over the curd before finishing the 
operation, for the pieces of curd will get out of place, and the 
curd being harder will not be so easily cut. 



54 Cheese Making. 

125. How to insert the perpendicular knife. 

One should next start cutting in the same place as with 
the other knife, inserting it in the curd in the same way, for it 
has cross braces which are really horizontal blades, and one 
must avoid jamming the curd with them. Next draw the knife 
over the same course that the other knife went, and we have the 
curd cut into strips one-half inch square and the length of the 
vat long. 

Next cut cross-wise of the vat, being careful not to jam the 
curd, and we then have it cut into half-inch cubes. 

If we are making up slow working milk, this amount of 
cutting may be enough, but if it is necessary to cut finer, it can 
be done by cutting alternately lengthwise and crosswise of 
the vat. The strokes should be much quicker now, as the curd 
has been getting harder and finer and will pass between the 
blades, and a quick stroke is therefore necessary to cut it. 

126. Rapidity of stroke a factor. 

When a cheese maker says he cuts a curd a certain number 
of times, he does not convey the proper idea, for the rapidity 
of his strokes is a great factor, and if he cuts lengthwise of the 
vat six times and crosswise six times, and cuts with a slow 
motion, the curd may not be cut any finer than if it had been 
cut only four times each way with a quick stroke. 

HEATTNG THE CUTtD. 

127. Keep curd moving. 

As has been said, the curd was cut to allow the whey 
to escape, but if the curd is not kept moving it will 
settle to the bottom of the vat and mat together again. 
Therefore, as soon as the curd has been cut, begin stirring 
the curd by hand or with a wire basket made for the purpose. 

Do not allow the curd to collect in the corners of the vat, 
and be sure and rub it off from the sides of the vat or it will 
scald on. The whey should look clear, and be as free as 
possible from specks of curd floating in it. 

128. When to beg-in heating - . 

Curd being a poor conductor of heat, one degree in five 
minutes is fast enough to heat normal working milk. If it is 
heated too fast, it will cook the particles on the outside and 
hold the whey inside of them ; and the result will be a mottled 
whey-soaked cheese. The curd does not expel the whey as fast 



CuttTng axd Heating the Curd. 



55 



as 80° F. to 90° F. as it does at a little higher temperature, 
so that the temperature should be applied slowly at first. 

129. Cooking an over ripe curd. 

If the milk is over ripe, however, it expels the whey faster, 
and the curd must be heated faster and higher than normal 
working curd, or there will be the required amount of acid on 
the curd before it is hard enough to remove it from the whey. 
As a usual thing it is not necessary to cook a curd above ninetv- 




Mc Vherson Carot Rake. 



eight degrees, but a curd must be cooked before drawing the 
whey, no matter if the temperature has to be raised to one 
hundred and ten degrees to do it. (For definition of cooked curd 
see paragraph 133.) It is necessary to cook a fast working curd 
in that way, and if the curd is taking acid too rapidly for the 
heating in the whey to be sufficient to firm the curd before the 
acid is too great, the whey can be drawn and the remainder of 
the firming done in warm water, which is run into the vat in 
place of the whey. (See however paragraph 142 regarding this.) 



5G Cheese Making. 

180. Stirring- the curd. 

To assist the curd in heating evenly and keep it from mat- 
ting together, it should be stirred from the time it is cut till it 
is cooked. Some Canadian factories have a steam stirring ap- 
paratus which is very handy, but in most factories it is done 
with a rake. 

131. Curd rakes. 

There are two kinds of curd rakes in use, the common 
wooden hay rake and the McPherson curd rake. 

The rake is put into the whey as soon as the steam is 
turned on, and the curd is started into a rolling motion as 
though it were boiling. The stirring is commenced with the 
rake, teeth up, at one end of the vat, and the rake is worked 
down the length of the vat, making the curd roll on the side 
of the vat opposite the operator ; then back again, making 
it roll on the side toward him. Care should be taken that curd 
does not collect in the corners of the vat; nor should it be 
allowed to roll up into little balls. On the other hand it must 
not be jammed, or fat will be lost in the whey at the expense 
•of the yield of cheese. 

132. McPherson curd rake. 

The McPherson curd rake has large triangular teeth with 
the base of the triangle forming the end of the tooth. This 
form of rake makes it much easier to give the curd a rolling 
motion. Some rakes have only two large teeth, and others 
several, but smaller ones. It is well to have two short wooden 
pins about a half to three-quarters of an inch long, in the back 
of the rake, to prevent its jamming the curd on the bottom 
of the vat. 

133. How to tell a proper cook. 

One of the most important steps in the process is to know 
when a curd is cooked enough. There should be one-eighth 
of an inch of acid on the curd, and then the whey should be 
drawn. Here it will be seen that our judgment comes into play 
to know how fast to heat a curd, to have it just firm enough 
when the acid comes. The rennet test will help us to regulate 
this, but if the rennet test indicates that we have a fast working 
milk it will be necessary to cook faster, and perhaps higher. 
When the whey is drawn the curd must not be salvy and soft, 
but when a big double handful is pressed together in the hands, 



Cutting and Heating the Curd. 57 

and one hand removed, it should not remain in a mashed up 
mass, but should fall apart readily. The particles of curd should 
be examined from time to time, to see that they are cooking 
on the inside as well as the outside. 

An over-cooked curd will give a "corky" cheese, while on 
the other hand, an undercook will give a salvy, weak bodied 
cheese that is in danger of souring. 

QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER VII. 

1. What is meant by finning or cooking a curd? 2. How 
should a fast working curd be cut? 3. Describe the use of the 
horizontal and perpendicular knives. 4. What effect has the 
rapidity of stroke on the fineness to which a curd can be cut? 
5. Why do we cut a curd? 6. Why do we heat a curd? 7. How 
soon after cutting should a maker begin heating a curd ? 8. How 
should an over ripe curd be heated? 9. Why do we stir a curd? 
10. Describe the McPherson curd rake? 11. How can one tell 
when a curd is properly cooked? 12. What is the effect in the 
cheese of an over cook? 13. What is the effect in the cheese 
of an under cook? 



CHAPTER VIII. 

DRAWING THE WHEY-DIPPING AND 
MILLING THE CURD. 



134. Measuring acid. 

When there is an eighth of an inch of acid on the curd, the 
whey should be drawn off. 

Strictly speaking", acid cannot be measured by the inch, but 
the acid seems to act on the curd in some way, so that when 
a piece is touched to a hot iron and drawn away, it will leave 
fine, silky threads behind, sticking to the iron. With normal 
working milk, when the curd is first cooked up, it will not string 
at all ; but when the acid has reached a certain strength, it will 
begin to string, at first barely sticking to the iron, and as the 
acid increases, the strings will get longer, till they may be several 
inches in length. 

135. Threads due to acid. 

That the threads are in no way due to the rennet, but are 
dependent on the acid, is shown when milk sours naturally. 
Such a sour milk curd will usually string on a hot iron. If acid 
is introduced into the milk in sufficient quantity to curdle it, the 
curd will likely string, in fact, strings of any desired length can 
be produced, by adding the right quantity of acid to the milk. 
However, if too much acid is added, it will make a soft, mushy 
curd, which will not string. 

The acid softens the curd so that it readily sticks to the 
hot iron. About two-tenths of one per cent of acid in the whey 
must be present to make it string an eighth of an inch. As 
the acid increases the strings get longer. Any solvent of the 
casein will produce this result on the hot iron. Borax, which is 
alkaline in reaction will bring about this result. 

136. Result of too much acid. 

When too much acid is developed in the whey, there is also 
a great loss of fat, as well as of casein. Experience has taught 
us, that as a usual thing we cannot let the curd take more 
than one-eighth of an inch of acid in the whey without disas- 
trous results. If we were to wait but a short time after there 

58 



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GO Cheese Making. 

are strings an eighth oi an inch long, we would find perhaps, 
that they had increased to an inch in length, and our curd would 
be ruined. It is therefore necessary, that one should work 
nimbly at this stage of the process. Not only should the whey 
be drawn off from the curd, but the curd must also be thor- 
oughly drained, for whey in the curd will have the same effect 
as though the curd were still in the whey. Of course the curd 
must contain its natural amount of moisture, but there must 
be no pools of free whey in or on the curd. 

In the old system of granular cheese making, the curd 
was stirred over in the bottom of the vat, and then a ditch 
made in the middle for it to drain. In this stirring, consider- 
able fat was lost, and the curds were not uniform in moisture. 
The reason of this was, that they were stirred drier one day than 
another. 

137. Curd rack. 

In the Cheddar system, which we follow, the curd is drained 
on racks, which are placed either in the bottom of the vat 
or in a curd sink. The racks are made of hard wood, preferably 
maple. They are constructed of strips rounded on the top, 
three-fourths of an inch thick, two inches wide, screwed onto 
two other pieces two inches high, three-fourths of an inch thick, 
and four feet long. The slats are three-eighths of an inch apart, 
and extend crosswise of the vat, and are long enough, so that 
not more than a quarter of an inch of space is left between each 
end and the sides of the vat. The racks are usually in two 
four-foot sections. 

138. Racks — how used. 

When the whey is drawn down, so that there is but very 
little whey left in the vat to interfere with operations, the vat is 
tipped so that one end is five or six inches lower than the other, 
and the curd is shoved down to the lower end till about five 
feet of the upper end is cleared. The first section of the rack 
is then put in, and a linen strainer cloth thrown over it. This 
strainer cloth should be about twelve feet long, and wide 
enough ((50 inches) to come up over the sides of the vat. The 
surplus cloth is then tucked under the lower end of the rack, 
and the curd piled onto it and broken apart to allow the whey 
to escape. 



Drawing the Whey. 



61 



It should be stirred over several times, and then left to 
mat evenly about six inches deep. The space, formerly occu- 
pied by the curd that has been put onto the racks, is now clear, 
and the second section of the rack can be placed in the vat. This 
is put in close to the first section, and the cloth that had been 
tucked out of the way, is drawn over it and covered with curd, 
care being taken, as on the first section, to stir out the whey. 
The sides and ends of the strainer cloth are then wrapped over 
the curd, and the vat covered with a heavy cloth cover to keep 
the curd warm. The temperature must be maintained, to keep 
fermentation going on. 




f ! 




1! 

Curd Rack. 

139. Cutting the curd into blocks. 

After ten or fifteen minutes, the curd will have matted to- 
gether, and can be cut into large blocks, which are turned over. 

The best instrument for cutting the curd that the author has 
seen is an instrument invented by Mr. B. B. Herrick, assistant 
in cheese making in the Ohio Dairy School. It is a truncated 
piece of heavy tin or galvanized iron ten inches wide by sixteen 
inches long. It is folded at the ends and has a bead turned on 
the back to stiffen it. By taking this in both hands it can be 
pressed down into the curd cutting it quickly without damage 
to the strainer cloth. 

The curd can be cut once or twice down the length of the 
vat, and across the vat into pieces eight inches wide. 
140. Turning, the curd. 

Begin at the lower end to turn the curd, for it will be more 
convenient to place the hands under the curd on the side toward 



02 Cheese Making. 

the upper end of the vat, and roll it over. In so doing, it is not 
necessary to lift the piece, thereby breaking it. Continue turn- 
ing the other pieces in the same manner, till the last piece at the 
upper end of the vat is reached, then, by a pull of the cloth, it is 
turned over. Cover it up and let it stand to mat still closer. By 
using racks, the whey runs through when the curd is turned 
over. Watch the curd, and if whey should collect between the 
pieces, turn them over and let it run off. The curd should be 
turned from time to time, but much oftener at first, to facilitate 
the expulsion of the whey. After a while the curd will begin 
to get a grain to it, and will tear like the meat on a chicken's 
breast. 





Herrick's Curd Knife. 

141. Pin -holey curds. 

If we have what is called a "gassy" or "pin-holey" curd, the 
gas will begin to form in little holes about the size of a pin head. 
Through the flattening of the curd, these holes are flattened and 
the gas escapes. Sometimes these pin holes appear before the 
curd is taken out of the whey, and, if they are plentiful enough, 
the curd will float on the surface of the whey, and we have 
what is called a "floater." But this does not occur very often, if 
we draw the whey in time. It used to occur quite often with 
bad milk, when the curd was left in the granular form, and more 
acid was run in the whey. The pin holes were not flattened, and 
consequently appeared in the cheese. Such curds are often 
accompanied by a bad flavor. They are probably caused from 
bad ferments, but may be due to bad flavored food. Clover 
and watercress, when eaten by the cows, have been known to 
give a curd with pin holes. 



Drawing the Whey. 03 

Some of the taints are much more persistent than others. 
As a usual thing, a taint can not be gotten entirely out of the 
cheese. 
142. Washing- curds. 

A curd can be greatly improved by washing it. When put 
onto the racks, and before it has had time to mat, a few pails of 
water at a temperature of 105° F. will wash out a great deal 
of the taint. 

The author is not now as much in favor of washing curds 
as he was several years ago. A light washing may improve a 
curd, but with other substances the lactic acid is washed out 
and without lactic acid a fine Cheddar flavor cannot be obtained. 

We have carried on extensive experiments with this in view. 
Sweet curd cheese, made from very sweet milk never develops 
the characteristic Cheddar flavor. Unless two-tenths of a per 
cent of lactic acid in the whey is developed, this flavor will be 
lacking in the cheese. Curds that have an over amount of acid 
in the whey may appear for the first month to be improved in 
quality by washing, but after that time, when it is usually beyond 
the maker's observation and in the wholesale dealer's hands, it 
wil! develop a ragged texture and bad flavor like a sweet curd 
cheese which has been exposed to a high temperature. 

148. Use of a curd sink. 

It is much easier to get the curd onto the racks and expel the 
whey, by using a curd sink. Nor is as much fat lost in the opera- 
tion, for where the curd mats together in the vat before it can 
be gotten onto the racks, it is necessary to break it apart to let 
the whey out, and the necessary bruising forces the fat out of it. 
144. Proper form of card sink. 

The common form of curd sink, with an opening along the 
whole length of the bottom, is to be avoided. The sink should 
be a tin lined box with a channel bottom. There should be racks 
in it, and the channel under the racks will leave a place for hot 
water, to keep the curd warm. There should be a faucet at the 
lower end that can be opened to let the whey drain off, and then 
closed to keep the water under the curd. If the racks are not 
used, the curd will not drain sufficiently ; and if there is an open- 
ing along the bottom, there will be a current of air started up 
around the curd which will be cooled. Of course this is just what 



G4 



Cheese Making. 



must be avoided, because the fermentation will be checked, if 
the curd cools down. 




145. How to fill the curd sink. 

When the curd sink is used, the whey should be drawn down 
in the vat till it just barely covers the curd; for while it is cov- 
ered with whey, it will not mat. The curd sink is then run to the 
lower end of the vat, and the curd dipped over onto the racks 





Curd Pail. 



Curd Scoop. 



in the curd sink. All the whey runs through, and the curd is left 
dry to mat properly. If the curd is tainted, it can be more thor- 
oughly washed, as the curd is not matted together, and the water 



Drawing the Whey. 



65 



will wash all around the particles. As the curd is filled into the 
sink, this can be moved along, and the curd filled into it evenly. 

After the curd has been turned several times, the maker 
can begin piling it. He can pile it two, three, or five or six 
layers deep, but he should keep the pieces pretty well together, 
so that the curd will not spread too much at first. 

146. Keep the curd warm. 

The pieces that have been on the outside of the pile should 
be placed on the inside, so that the temperature may be kept 
even. We must not forget the fact, that cheese-making is a 
process of fermentation, and that heat is a great factor in it. 

147. Piling- curds. 

Piling the curd has a tendency to make a fast-curing, soft 
or "weak-bodied," cheese. If a fast-curing, soft cheese is de- 
sired, then the curd should be piled, but if a slow-curing, firm- 
bodied cheese is desired, we should pile the curd very little or 
not at all. In many of the best Canadian factories, the curd is 
not piled at all, but is turned over and over. A curd, from over 
ripe milk, should not be piled very much, as such a curd is likely 
to produce a "salvv" cheese. 




Students Operating Gosselin Curd Mill. 

MILLING THE CURD. 
148. When a curd is ready to mill. 

In the course of an hour and a half from the time the curd 
has been dipped onto the racks, it will have matted down, and as- 




Polil Mill. 




McPherson Curd Mill. 



Common Knife Curd Mill. 



Drawing the Whey. 0? 

sumed a meaty texture. It will not tear out in chunks, but in 
strips like the meat on a chicken's breast. There will also prob- 
ably be half an inch or more, likely an inch, of fine strings, when 
tried on a hot iron. It is then ready to grind or mill, that is, it 
is put into a curd mill and cut into small pieces. The acid should 
be developing well at this stage of the process, but the amount 
of acid is not so important as that the curd shall be meaty in 
texture. 

149. Description of curd mills. 

The first curd mills were used in England. They consisted 
of a hopper, in the bottom of which was a roller with iron pegs 
in it. Sometimes there were two rollers. On the side of the 
hopper were iron pegs, and when the curd was thrown into it, the 
pegs in the roller would catch it, and carry it against the pegs, 
and tear and squeeze it to pieces. 

The old Roe mill is made on this principle. The old Elgin 
mill was also on the same plan, only there was less room for 
the curd to get between the pegs, and the curd was badly 
smashed and jammed. It helped to get rid of the fat, and such 
a mill ought never to have been used. 

150. Pohl mill. 

The next form of peg mill is the Pohl mill, which has sharp 
teeth on two cylinders, revolving at different velocities, which 
pick the curd to pieces. The objection to this mill is, that it 
does not leave the curd in the same size pieces. Some of the 
pieces will be quite large, while others are small, and when salted 
the salt will not be evenly distributed. There is a self-salting 
attachment to the mill, but it is useless, as a curd is never ready 
to salt when milled. 

151. Whitlow mill. 

A knife-mill does not jam the curd as much as a peg mill 
does. It simply cuts it. One of the earliest forms of knife- 
mills was built after the form of peg-mills, as is seen in the 
Whitlow mill of Canada. There are a number of knives on a 
shaft which play between knives in the side of the hopper. 
When the curd is put into the hopper, it is caught between 
the knives and cut into small pieces. The B. & W. mill is 
practically the same mill. 




Harris Curd Mill. 



Barnard Hand Power Curd Mill, 




Drawing the Whey 



09 



152. McPherson mill. 

The McPherson mill, invented in Eastern Ontario, consists 
of a wheel with knives in it similar to the blade of a plane. A 
hopper feeds the curd down against the wheel, and as it turns, 
slices of curd are shaved off. The wheel is apt to make the curd 
fly. 
15!i. Gosselin mill. 

The Gosselin mill is similar to the McPherson, the blade 
being placed in a cylinder. The curd placed in a hopper rubs 
against the blades and drops into the cylinder, which being open 
at the ends, allows the curd to fall out. 




Fuller Power Curd Mill. 



154. The Harris mill. 

The Harris mill has a network of knives at the bottom 
of a hopper. A plunger works by a lever into this hopper, and 
when a chunk of curd is dropped into this, the plunger forces it 
through the knives, leaving the curd in pieces one-half inch 
square, and as long as the piece of curd dropped into the hopper. 

155. The Fuller mill. 

The Fuller mill has two knives with a smaller number of 
blades than the Harris, placed one on either side of the hopper 



:0 



Cheese Making. 



and the curd is pressed through the knives by a plunger that 
works back and forth across the bottom of the hopper. 
156. The Barnard mill. 

The Barnard is similar to the Fuller mill. 



suit 





KASPER ROTARY CURD MILL, 




157. The Kasper mill. 

The Kasper mill is like the Pohl except that the pegs on 
the rollers arc replaced by a cylinder of knives. The curd is 
pressed through the knives by means of a wooden roller. The 
cylinder is in three sections which open automatically and let 
the curd fall out. 

158. Advantages and objections to knife mills* 

The other advantage of a knive-mill, besides saving the fat 
in the curd, is that the curd will not mat together on the racks, 
but can easily be torn to pieces by hand. An objection offered 
to such mills is, that the curd will not press together well. It 



Drawing the Whey. 71 

may perhaps be difficult at times, but the trouble in closing 
the cheese lies somewhere else. It must be remembered that 
knife-mills are used, hardly without exception, in factories 
where the best Canadian cheese is made, and this cheese is 
shipped to England, where the bandages are often stripped off 
from them, and they must necessarily be closed. 

If the trouble in closing the cheese be carefully investigated 
it will be found to be in the bandage used, or the tempera- 
ture of the curd. Some makers let the curd mat together again, 
and grind a second or third time, but we do not like so much 
hacking of the curd. The curd should be piled up to flatten the 
pinholes, and then stirred every fifteen minutes to give it air. 

159. Stirring the curd. 

A five-tined fork, with the points turned into little loops to 
prevent catching into the cloth, or sticking into the sink, is a 
very handy tool with which to stir the curd. It does the work 
thoroughly, and with much less labor than with the hands alone. 

160. Time to mill. 

The grinding should come about half way in time, from dip- 
ping the curd to salting it. It therefore should be an hour and 
a half from grinding to salting. During all this time the tem- 
perature should be kept up. (Why?) 

The curd should take all the acid it will before salting, which 
is indicated by strings about two inches long on the hot iron. 

161. Effect of dry acid. 

If a fast-curing cheese is wanted, there is all the greater 
reason for giving it all the acid it will take. 

Do not be afraid of getting a sour cheese by giving it all the 
dry acid it will take. If one has not all the whey out of the 
curd, there is no danger of a sour cheese. It is acid in the whey 
that makes a sour cheese. 

A tallowy cheese may possibly result from a prolonged mat- 
ting, but this is seldom the case. If the curing room is not 
under control in hot weather the cheese is safer if well developed 
on the racks. If the curing room temperature can be held down 
to 65° F. it will not be necessary to develop so much acid on the 
racks. 
162. How to expel gas. 

If the pin holes are not all flattened out by the time the 
maker is ready to salt the curd, it can be put into the hoops and 



72 Cheese Making. 

pressed up for fifteen minutes. Then take it out and pull to 
pieces by hand or with the fork. This, however, is not neces- 
sary except in very stubborn cases. The gas can usually be 
expelled by thorough airing and piling. 

1(>3. Steaming curds. 

The vat or curd sink should be covered with a heavy canvas 
cover. A steam hose can be inserted under it in such a position 
that the hot steam will not strike the curd directly. A gentle 
stream of steam will keep the curd warm and the moisture 
seems to dispose of taints in the curd. 




-' V , i^ R 




Effect of developing no acid on curd before pressing. The cheese marked L was 
cut as socn as taken from the press. The cheese P was cut after standing for a 
week. The small crevices left between the uncementd particles of curd in L had 
been expanded by the development of gas, thus making the cheese huff. 



QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER VIII. 

1. What is meant by an eighth of an inch of acid on a curd? 
3. Why do the threads string out on the hot iron? 3. How 
much acid must be present in the whey to cause strings one 
eighth of an inch in length? -i. What is the effect of too much 
acid in the whey? 5. How are curd racks used in the vat? 6. 
Describe the Herrick curd knife. 7. Why and how should the 
curd on the racks be turned? 8. What are "Pinholey" curds 
and how should they be handled? 9. What can be said in favor 
of and against washing curds? 10. What is the advantage of- a 
curd sink? 11. How should a curd sink be constructed? 12. 
How should the curd sink be filled? 13. Why should a curd 
be kept warm and how may it be piled to accomplish this? 



Drawing the Whey. 73 

14. What is the effect of high and low piling? 15. When is a 
curd ready to mill? 1G. Describe the old peg mills and what is 
the objection to them? 17. Describe the Pohl mill? IS. De- 
scribe the Whitlow and B. & W. mills. 19. Describe the Mc- 
Pherson mill. 20. Describe the Gosslein mill. 21. Describe 
the Harris mill. 22. Describe the Fuller mill and the Barnard 
mill. 23. Describe the Kasper mill. 24. What are the advan- 
tages for and objection to knife mills? 2-5. How should a five- 
tined steel fork be fixed to stir the curd? 26. What is the effect 
of dry acid on a curd? 27. How may a tallowy cheese possibly 
result? 28. How may gas be expelled from the curd ? 29. What 
can be said about steaming curds ? 



CHAPTER IX. 

Salting and Pressing the Curd. 



1(>4. Condition of a card for salting. 

The curd, when ready to salt, should, when rubbed on the 
hot iron, not smell like burnt hair, but like toasted cheese. It 
should not feel harsh, but soft and silky, and when squeezed in 
the hand, a mixture of half fat and half whey should run between 
the fingers. 

If it is clear whey that runs out, the curd is not ready to 
salt. White whey should not run from a curd before salting. 
In that case it has not been fully freed from whey, and there 
is a heavy loss of fat. ( )f course, if the whey is in the curd, it 
should be gotten rid of, but it ought not to be there. When 
salted, a clear brine should run from the curd. 

Few cheese-makers realize how important a step in the 
process of cheese making the salting of the curd is, and they 
salt all their curds according to some fixed rule, learned from 
their predecessors, without knowing what the salt does. 

165. What salt is. 

Salt is known to chemists by the name of sodium chloride. 
It is a chemical combination of the metal sodium and chlorine 
gas, in the proportion by weight, of twenty-three parts sodium 
to thirty-five and a half parts chlorine. 

166. Where salt conies from. 

It occurs in beds in the earth, and is either mined, or more 
commonly obtained from salt wells, in which the salt is dis- 
solved by the water, pumped up to the surface, and evaporated, 
leaving the salt. But salt does not occur pure in these beds. 

167. Impurities in salt. 

There are associated with it potassium chloride, calcium 
chloride and sulphates of magnesia and lime. The presence 
of calcium and magnesium chloride in the salt makes it lumpy 
and damp, for these chlorides have a great attraction for water, 
and will take it from the air. Calcium chloride and magnesium 
give the salt a bitter taste. 

These impurities, however, as well as the water contained 
in salt, are a very low percentage of the whole, and when a salt 

74 



Salting and Pressing the Curd. 75 

dealer talks about his salt being so much stronger or purer 
than any other high grade salt, it is not so. Do not understand, 
however, that common barrel salt is just as good as the best salt 
for cheese making, for it is not. Common barrel salt contains 
a great deal of dirt, and salt may take up bad odors, which will 
be imparted to the cheese. 

Fine salt that has probably been ground, and the crystals 
broken, will dissolve faster than a coarser salt, in the natural 
crystalline form. 

Salts can easily be tested as to quality, by dissolving them 
in pure water, in a glass cylinder, and shaking up to dissolve. 
Use more salt than will dissolve. The best salt is that which 
leaves a clear brine with no scum or dirt on the top, nor dirt in 
the bottom of the solutions. Cheese is an article of food and 
we do not want any dirt in it, so we should avoid dirty salt. If a 
few drops of a solution of ammonium oxalate is poured into the 
salt solution, any lime that may be in the salt will be thrown 
down in the form of a white precipitate of calcium oxalate. By 
this means we can form an idea of the amount of lime in the 
salt. We doubt if a little lime (calcium oxide) is harmful in the 
salt, but if the calcium is in the form of chloride, it will attract 
moisture and make the salt lump. Lumpy salt will not be 
evenly distributed in the cheese. 

Avkka(;k Composition <>k American Dairy Salts. 
Analyses by F. W. Woll, Wis. Exp. Station. 



Name of Brand. 


«5 
6* 


6 
coo 


a- 

O CL, 

Ocfl 


Calcium 
Chloride. 


Mag-nesium 
Chloride. 


'o £ 

5 a 


6 

s 

"o 


Anchor 


3 
3 
4 
5 
8 
3 
2 
6 
3 
5 


97.79 
98.01 
98.18 
99.18 
98.27 
97.87 
98.15 
98 00 
98.43 
95.57 


1.48 

1.42 

1.21 

.54 

1.11 

150 

1.31 

1.15 

.96 

.92 


.28 
.20 
.22 
!l9 
.24 
.31 
.39 
.36 
.40 
.25 


.08 
.16 
.12 
.05 
.07 
.07 
.08 
.15 
.06 
.07 


.06 
.03 
.04 
.03 
.04 
.05 
.01 
.03 
.03 
.02 


.31 


Ashton 


18 


Canfield & Wheeler 

Diamond Crystal 


.23 
.01 




.16 


Kansas 


.20 


LeRoy 


.06 


Vacuum Pan 


.31 


Warsaw 


.12 


Worcester 


.17 



76 



Cheese Making. 



168. What salt does to cheese. 

In the first place, salt gives taste to a cheese. A cheese 
without salt has an insipid fresh taste. Salt also takes out the 
moisture, so that fermentation is checked. A cheese without 
salt will cure very fast, in fact fermentation goes on so rapidly 
that gas holes are formed. 

The same thing is seen in brick and Swiss cheese, in which 
the fermentation starts in the unsalted state, but the salt, which 
is applied to the outside, works its way into the cheese before 
it gets bad. It should be noted, that such cheese has to be cured 
in a cellar, where there is a constant low temperature. It 
would otherwise spoil. 




Effect of salt in cheese: No. 1, no salt No. 2, upper row, 1% pounds; lower row, 
2 pounds per 100 pounds of curd; No. 3, 3 pounds per 100 pounas of curd. 

169, Effect of too much salt. 

If a cheese is salted too heavy, it becomes dry and mealy, 
and cures very slowly. The flavor is also injured. If we have 
bad milk, we should salt higher to improve the flavor, for up to 
a certain point, this is accomplished by heavier salting. We 
believe this to be due to the fact, that as the fermentation is 
checked by more salt, the gases formed have a chance to diffuse, 
and get out of the cheese, without filling it with holes, and the 
odor of the gases. Salt may also check the action of the enzymes 
in their work of digesting the casein. (9-i.) 

We would, therefore, if we wanted to make a fine flavored 
cheese, salt it pretty heavy, say three pounds of salt per one 
hundred of curd. It must be expected, however, that such a curd 



Salting and Pressing the Curd. 77 

will cure slowly. We cannot make the best kind of cheese in a 

day, a week, nor a month. If one wants a fast curing cheese, 

he uses more rennet and less salt, but the product will not be 

as good a cheese. It will not be as close, nor as fine flavored, 

for the gases will not have had time to escape from the cheese. 

If one is making a fine, slow curing cheese, he need not expect 

to get as much cheese per hundred weight of milk, as if he were 

making last curing cheese, for the salt expels the moisture and 

leaves less weight. 

In an experiment in the Wisconsin Dairy School, a curd 

was divided into three equal parts. The first lot received 

no salt ; the second lot one and a half pounds of salt per cwt. ; 

and the third lot three pounds per cwt. The curds were then 

pressed separately, and the green cheese weighed as follows : 

The cheese with no salt 10 _^ lbs. 

The cheese with one and a half lbs. of salt 9.75 lbs. 

The cheese with three pounds of salt 9.50 lbs. 

As the cheese cured, they kept their relative weights. Other 

experiments have borne out this result. 

170. Curds not always salted the same amount. 

But curds should not always be salted at the same rate, 
from day to day. 

A moist curd needs more salt than a dry one, for two 
reasons : First, the excess of moisture must be expelled by the 
addition of salt; and second, as the expulsion of moisture takes 
salt with it in solution, enough must be applied to leave the 
proper amount in the cheese. 

171. Salt should be evenly distributed. 

It is also essential, that the salt should be evenly distributed 
through the cheese. If there is too much salt in the curd that 
is put into the hoop last, it will crack the rind of the cheese. 

172. Application of salt. 

The curd should be spread out evenly in the curd sink, and 
a part of the salt scattered evenly over it. The curd should then 
be stirred thoroughly, and again spread out, and the remainder 
of the salt applied. It ought to be stirred every ten minutes, 
to keep the salt from settling to the bottom of the pile in the 
brine. 

173. Temperature of salting. 

Before salting, it should have been cooled to 90° F., for if 
too warm, the fat may be expelled in large quantities with the 



?S Cheese Making. 

brine. The curd should not be put to press, till the salt has been 
thoroughly dissolved and worked into it. 

174. Condition of salted curd for pressing. 

it will have a harsh feeling, due to the undissolved salt 
crystals, and the outside of the pieces of curd are hardened, so 
that they will not press together readily; but as the salt works 
into the curd, it will regain its velvety feeling. When this con- 
dition has been reached, which is usually in fifteen to twenty 
minutes, it is ready for the press. 

175. Removing fat. 

As indicated in paragraph 173, the fat may run over the 
surface of the curd and prevent the particles cementing. This is 
especially true of a curd from tainted milk. By throwing two 
or three pails of warm water (110°) over the curd this fat will 
be washed off, and then a pail of cold water will harden the curd 
so that the fat will not run. ( )f course a little fat is lost in this 
way. if the curing room is cool enough to permit, salting the 
curd a little earlier will prevent this. 

PRESSING Till-; CHEESE. 

17(i. Curd must not be too warm. 

Before pressing, the curd should be cooled to between eighty 
and eighty-five degrees. If put to press warmer, the fat runs, 
and large quantities of it are lost. It also runs between the 
pieces of curd so that they will not close together, and under 
the bandage, preventing it from sticking. Poorly closed cheese 
has often been blamed to the curd mill, when the trouble really 
lay in the temperature at which it was put to press. 

177. Cnrd must not be too cold. 

Of course, when the curd is much below 80°, it will not 
close together, but there is a happy medium. This happy medium 
varies according to the temperature of the press room. If the 
room is cold, the curd will cool down. A cheese-maker must 
have some brains in his head, and use them, for he is more than 
a mere machine to be wound up and run down. A proper tem- 
perature for the press room is about TO . 

178. Common packages of cheese. 

There are four common packages, into which American 
cheese is pressed, namely. Young Americas, weighing nine or 
ten pounds, flats and Cheddars, weighing respectively thirty 
and sixtv pounds, and daisies weighing twenty pounds. 



Salting and Pressing the Curd. 



79 



The common diameter of flats or Cheddar cheese is fourteen 
and a half inches, and a flat is half the height of a Cheddar. 

There are two kinds of presses used, the gang and the up- 
right. The upright press has the screws in an upright posi- 
tion, and but one screw to a cheese. The gang press has one 
horizontal screw, which presses any where from one to twenty 
cheese. The hoops (Fraser) are made a little smaller at the 
bottom than the top, so that each hoop will fit over the next 
one in front of it. 




I'pright Tress. 



It is sometimes claimed for upright presses that the pressure 
is kept up better, as there is but one cheese under a screw, but 
they are hard to keep clean and take up a great deal of room. 

The Sprague automatic adjustable gang press can be ad- 
justed to fit hoops of different diameters. This press as well as 
the Helmer is arranged so that a continuous pressure is kept 
on the cheese. A new factory should certainly be equipped 
with one of these presses. 



80 



Cheese Making. 



In the Fraser gang hoop, the bandage is held by an iron 
band, which slips into the top of the hoop. This iron band is 
called the "bandager." 

In pressing the cheese, the maker should aim to turn out 
a perfect cheese. He should be an artist, and produce an object 
of beauty. The ends should be square with its height, clean, 
and the bandage turned down evenly at the ends, and closed well 
on the sides. 
179. Kind of bandage used. 

There are two kinds of bandages used, starched and seam- 
less. The starched bandage is made from the starche 1 cloth, 
by the factory man. The seamless bandage comes in the form 
of a long tube, from which the required length for the cheese is 
cut. I bit the starched bandage will not let the whey out prop- 
erly, and consequently the cheese does not close on the sides. 
The cheese closes much better with the unstarched, seamless 
bandage. 

Ready-made unstarched bandages of better quality than the 
seamless bandage and about the same cost are now in the 
market. 




The Helmer Patent Continuous Pressure Press. 

ISO. HtMv the bandage is put onto the cheese. 

When the bandage is put into the hoop, the edge should be 
turned in evenly, for about an inch and a half on the bottom, and 
perhaps dampened to hold its place. 

Before putting the bandage in, the bottom cap cloth should 
be put in. It should be round, and as large as the bottom of the 
hoop (fourteen and a half inches), and should be soaked in hot 
water. Square cap cloths lap over onto the sides of the cheese, 
and make bad looking scars. 



Salting and Pressing the Curd. 



81 



181. Cheese must be the same size. 

Care should be taken to put the same amount of curd into 
each hoop, so that the cheese will all be the same height. 

The hoops should not be filled so full that the cheese comes 
above the junction between the bandage and the hoop, for in 
such cases, there will be a little ridge left at the junction, which 
will disfigure the cheese. 

When the curd has been filled into the hoop, the top cap 
cloth is put on, and the fibrous ring laid around the edge, to keep 
the curd from pushing out, and then the follower put in. Usually 
the fibrous ring is tacked onto the follower, and while it may- 
fit well, it quite often happens that it does not ; and the curd will 
push out at the places where the ring does not come tight against 
the hoop. There is another point in having the fibrous ring 
separate from the follower, which will be noticed when we come 
to it later on. (185.) 




The Sprague Adjustable Gang Press. 

182. Tighten the press slowly. 

After the hoops have been slipped into place, the screw 
should be tightened slowly, to let the whey out gradually. A 
small stream of brine should be kept flowing. If too great 
pressure is applied at first, the fat will be forced out. Curd 
closes together slowly, as will be seen by squeezing it in the 
hand. If it be squeezed suddenly, and then the pressure released, 
it will fall apart, but if pressed up slowly in the hand, it will 
stick together. The full pressure should not be reached for 
about fifteen minutes. 



82 



Cheese Making. 



In about an hour, the curd will be pressed together, and 
then the bandage should be turned down around the top of the 
cheese. This operation is generally called "dressing" the cheese. 




Fraser Gang Hoop. 
A, Hoop. B, Bandager. C, Follower. D, Fibrous ring. 

183. Dressing the cheese. 

Set the hoops in an upright position, and take out the fol- 
lowers, cap cloths, and bandagers. Pull the bandage gently, to 
be sure there are no wrinkles in it, and then trim off evenly all 
around, so that it will lap over onto the end of the cheese about 
an inch and a half. Soak it down into position with warm water, 
and put on the cap, after having wrung it out in warm water. 
Be sure there are no wrinkles in the cap, for they will leave bad 
looking marks on the rind of the cheese. 

Then put in the bandagers to keep the hoops straight in the 
press, and the fibrous ring and follower, and close up the press, 
putting on full pressure. Young Americas, however, will not 
stand as much pressure, for they do not have as much surface 
as larger cheese, to resist it. 




Wilson Cheese Hoop. 

184. The Wilson hoop. 

Another form of hoop used largely in Ohio is the Wilson 
hoop here described. 



Salting and Pressing the Curd. 83 

directions for using the wilson hoops. 
Each hoop consists of four pieces, as follows. 

B. The bottom cover, with the widest flange or rim. 
E. The open wide hoop. 

D. The closed or tight wide hoop. 

C. The top cover with narrow flange or rim. 

First — Place the cover with the widest rim (J3) on the 
ways in the bottom of the press. 

Second — Place the Cap Cloth on the bottom of the cover 
(B). Said Cap Cloth should be as large as the bottom of the 
cover. 

Third — Place within the bottom of cover (A) the open 
hoop or bandage (E). 

Fourth — Wet one edge of the bandage, adjust with the 
open hoop and turn the wet edge over the top of the hoop. 

Fifth — Put the closed wide hoop (D) on top of the open 
one. letting it lap over about one inch, and fasten the hooks 
which are provided to keep same from slipping down. 

Sixth — Put in the cheese curd as may be desired, for any 
thickness the cheese are to be made, but always put in enough 
so that the outer or tight hoop in slipping over the open one 
when pressing shall not quite be forced down to meet the edge 
of the lower cover. 

Seventh — Put on the top cover (C), then unfasten the 
hooks under the handles, then turn the cheese over, placing the 
top cover up snug against the head of the press. Proceed in 
the same manner with the balance of the hoops until all are 
filled, placing the top cover against the bottom of the previous 
one, etc. Then proceed to pressing. 

Eighth — After pressing as usual, or until the time when 
the bandage is to be turned in or lapped over the edge of the 
cheese in order to press the bandage down, it is well to re- 
move the cheese from the hoop, and having turned it over, put 
it back in the hoop with the other face up. and put to press 
again. This will be found to remove any wrinkles that may 
have formed in the bandage. 
185. How to get cheese dry. 

The idea, that we make a cheese dry by pressing it, is an 
erroneous one. The whey has to be gotten out of the curd 
while it is in the vat, and if it is not gotten out there, no amount 



84 Cheese Making. 

of squeezing in the press will expel it, and the cheese will get 
sour. 

If the press is not a continuous pressure one, as is likely 
the case, the maker should tighten the press the last thing at 
night, and the first thing in the morning. 

In the morning, the cheese should be taken out of the hoops 
and examined, to see if they are perfect in shape, and all defects 
remedied. If the bandage does not stick, the cheese should be 
washed with warm water, and after being tightened in the press, 
hot water turned on to warm it up. If the edge of the upper end 
of the cheese is rough, it should be turned end for end in the 
hoop. In either case, the fibrous ring should be left out, so that 
the edge of the cheese will come out of the hoop square. Of 
course it must be watched, to see that the cheese does not push 
out beyond the follower, and its last state be worse than the 
first ; but if the pressure is carefully applied, a nice square edge 
can be put onto a cheese in this way. 

186. Do not pound the hoops. 

The cheese should slip out of the hoop with very little 
pounding. Pounding loosens the rivets, and thereby gets the 
hoops into bad repair, as well as loosens the bandage on the 
cheese, and sometimes breaks the cheese. 

Where a knife is used to loosen the cheese, the bandage 
is also often loosened. If the cheese does not slip out easily, 
grease the hoops. The hoops should, of course, be kept clean, 
and if it is necessary to grease them, clean grease can be applied. 

Cheese should never be taken out on the floor, but on a 
press board. We must remember that cheese is an article of 
human food. Most people like to have clean food to eat, and 
we should aim to be just as clean in making the cheese, as 
though the consumers were watching all the time. 

Wipe the cheese off with a clean cloth, and then put them 
on the shelves, marking the date neatly. Cheese with great 
big marks scrawled over them do not look attractive. 

187. Greasing the cheese. 

As soon as the rind has dried off, it should be greased with 
regular cheese grease. The practice of skimming the whey, after 
it has fermented and become full of dirt, is nothing less than a 
dirty trick. Good wholesome grease, prepared for the purpose, 



Salting and Pressing the Curd. 85 

can be bought of regular dealers in dairy supplies, and nothing 
else should be used. 

188. Cracks in cheese. 

If the cheese is left exposed to the air too long, before being 
greased, it will crack. Another cause of the rind cracking is too 
much acid in the whey. A high acid cheese will, as a rule, crack. 
A draft of air blowing over the cheese will also cause it to crack. 
This, of course, is caused by the air absorbing moisture from 
the rind. We think, that while the question of moisture in the 
curing of American cheese has gone almost unconsidered, more 
attention must be paid to this in the future. 

189. Cheese in cold storage. 

Cheese held in cold storage are very likely to mould, which 
will work into the cracks, and for this reason buyers do not want 
cracked cheese. The rinds of high acid cheese, held in cold 
storage, will also begin to rot at the middle. 

Sometimes the maker leaves the caps, or press cloths as they 
are sometimes called, on until a few days before shipping, and 
then pulls them off and greases the rinds. 

Sometimes salt sacks made out of heavy ducking are used 
for caps. This leaves a hard but very rough rind, and if the 
cheese is held in cold storage, and mould grows on it, it is almost 
impossible to get the mould off, and buyers are strongly opposed 
to using salt sacks for this purpose. 

190. Cleaning- mouldy cheese. 

Cheese that gets mouldy in cold storage, is put into a sink 
of hot water to which a little ammonia has been added, and scrub- 
bed with a brush. It is put on a shelf to drain and dry, and after- 
ward boxed again. 

191. Cheese cloth circles. 

Sometimes a thin "cap" of cheese cloth, called a "cheese 
cloth circle," is put onto the end of the cheese. The cheese cloth 
circle does not go on under the bandage, where it is turned down 
on the end, but over it. In using the circles, there is no need 
of cheese grease till the cheese are shipped. The circle is then 
pulled off and the rind greased. 

The circles make the cheese much cleaner, and buyers gen- 
erally prefer them, and will pay more money for the cheese, 
usually an eighth of a cent a pound more. The cost is about 
one-sixteenth of a cent a pound on flats. Sometimes by special 



SG 



Cheese Making. 



agreement buyers want the circles left on the cheese. When the 
cheese come out of cold storages they are cleaned, the circles 
being stripped off leaving a clean bright rind, which is greased. 

The}' should be but twelve or thirteen inches in diameter, 
as they sometimes do not stick under the edge where they lap 
over the bandage. 
192. Press cloths. 

The first one is put on inside the "heavy cap" or "press 
cloth," before the curd is put into the hoop, and the other one 
is put in when the cheese is "dressed." 




193. Keep a daily record. 

When the cheese is ready to ship, it quite often happens 
that a maker finds something peculiar about a cheese, which 
he wishes to avoid or reproduce in the future, but he does not 
remember the circumstances connected with the making of that 
particular cheese. In the best factories a daily record is kept, 
in a book for the purpose, of how the milk and curd act. This 
gives them a history of each cheese, and by its aid, the maker is 
often able to remedy defects, and reproduce the better points. 

The following is a blank for the purpose : 



Date 

Yat used (Number of vat). 

Condition of milk. 

Per cent of fat in milk. 

Pounds of milk in vat, 

Rennet test for ripeness, 

Temperature set. 

Time set, 

Amount of rennet used, 

Rate of rennet per 1000 pounds of milk. 

Time cut. 

A [inures in curdling. 



190, 



Salting and Pressing the Curd. 87 

Time steam was turned on, 

Time required in raising to degrees, 

Hot iron test when dipped, 

Time dipped, 

Time from cutting to dipping, 

Per cent of fat in whey. 

Time ground, 

Hot iron test when ground. 

Time salted, 

Amount of salt on curd. 

Rate of salt per 1000 lbs. of milk, 

Time put to press, 

Kind and number of cheese made, 

Time dressed, 

Time pressed, 

Weight of green cheese, 

Average weight of milk per pound of cheese, 

Highest and lowest temperature of curing room for last 
twenty-four hours. 

Remarks — - 

Under the head of remarks, any important thing not in- 
cluded under the other heads may be noted, such as a gassy curd 
or washing out the bad flavor, or any way of treatment different 
from the ordinary way. 

QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER IX. 

1. What are the conditions of a curd when ready to salt? 
2. What is salt? 3. Where is salt found? 4-. What are the 
impurities in salt, to what extent do they occur, and what are the 
objections to them? 5. What does salt do to cheese? 6. What 
is the effect of too much salt? 7. Does salt increase or diminish 
the weight of cheese and why? 8. Should all curds be salted 
alike? 9. How should salt be applied to a curd? 10. When is a 
curd ready to press? 11. What prevents cheese from closing 
and what is the remedy? 12. At what temperature should 
curd be pressed and why? 13. What are the common pack- 
ages of cheese? Id. How do upright and gang presses com- 
pare? 15. How is the bandage held in the Fraser hoop? 10. 
What are the different kinds of bandage in use? 17. How is the 
bandage put onto a cheese? IS. How should the cap cloths be 



88 Cheese Making. 

cut? 19. How full should a hoop be filled? 20. How fast 
should the press be tightened? 21. What is meant by dressing 
the cheese? 22. Describe the Wilson hoop. 23. How is moist- 
ure expelled from a cheese? 2-4. Why should not the hoops 
be pounded to get the cheese out ? 25. Why and with what 
should cheese be greased ? 26. How do high acid cheese behave 
in cold storage? 27. How can mouldy cheese be cleaned? 28. 
What is a cheese cloth circle and how are they put on with 
reference to the bandage? 29. What is a press cloth? 30. What 
is the advantage of a dailv record? 



CHAPTER X. 

Curing and Shipping the Cheese. 



194. Proper temperature. 

The curing of cheese is a process of fermentation, whereby 
the insoluble curd is converted into soluble peptones. Cheese 
is cured best at a temperature of 60° F., for, as has been stated 
before, at this temperature the gases have a chance to diffuse and 
pass from the cheese, without injuring its texture, and the fat 
does not run out. 

The curing room must, therefore, be so constructed that 
the temperature may be kept constant at 60°. Cheese also needs 
plenty of fresh air, to make it cure properly and produce a good 
flavor. If a batch of cheese is divided into two lots, and one 
lot boxed up, while the other is placed on the shelves, it will 
be found that the lot in the boxes will cure slower, and be 
inferior in flavor to the lot on the shelves. 

195. Curing at different temperatures. 

Cheese will cure slowly at low temperatures and be of fine 
flavor and texture. At the Wisconsin Experiment Station a 
cheese was kept at a temperature of 50° and was found to have 
cured perfectly and to be of a very fine quality. As the temper- 
ature is raised the cheese cures faster. At 60° to (35° the most 
rapid curing takes place, at which a good cheese can be obtained. 
A temperature of 70° for any protracted length of time will in- 
jure the texture and flavor, while a temperature of 80° will 
spoil the best kind of a cheese. 

196. Curing shelves, how made. 

The cheese should be cured on shelves made of good clear 
pine, an inch and a half thick by sixteen inches wide, supported 
every four feet. The point in having the lumber clear is that 
sap and pitch will be in the knots and color the rinds. The 
boards should be wider than the cheese, for if the cheese projects 
over the edge, a mark will be left on the face of the cheese. 
The board ought to be heavy, and the supports close together 
in order to prevent sagging, which might make the cheese, 
especially Cheddars, crooked. The cheese should be turned 
every day, and the shelves wiped with a clean cloth. Pains 
should be taken not to soil the cheese nor break the corners in 
turning them. 

£9 



90 



Cheese Making. 



197. Arrangement of cheese. 

The older cheese should be kept on the lower shelves, and 
the vounger ones on the upper shelves, because of the differ- 
ence in temperature between the upper and lower portions of 
the room. The upper shelves being warmer, the younger will 
cure faster, and the month's make of cheese will be evener than 
if this rule were not followed. 

Cheese ought to be kept till they are a month old before 
shipping. There is so much indigestible green cheese put on 
the market, that people get disgusted with it. If they could 
alwavs get cheese such as they like, they would buy more, and 
if more cheese was bought, the price would be higher, and the 
farmer would receive a good rate of interest for waiting for his 
monev. 




Hygrometer or Hygroscope. 

198. Moisture in the curing- room. 

A matter that has not received its proper attention with 
American or Cheddar cheese is the humidity of the air m the 
curing room. There are two instruments for measuring the 
humidity — the hygroscope and psychrometer. 

199. The Hygroscope. 

The hygroscope is an instrument consisting of a coil of ma- 
terial verv sensitive to moisture. As it takes up from or gives 



Curing and Shipping the Cheese. 



91 



off water to the atmosphere the coil moves a hand around a dial 
which shows the per cent of saturation. 
200. The Psychroineter. 

The psychrometer consists of two accurate thermometers. 
On the bulb of one is a wick which dips in a cup of distilled 
water. When the air is saturated it has all the water it will 
hold. If the air is not saturated water will evaporate from the 




Psychrometer. 

wick and the dryer the air the greater the evaporation. As 
the water passes from around the bulb into the air it lowers the 
temperature. The United States Weather Bureau has prepared 
a table of readings with the corresponding humidity. The fol- 
lowing is such a table for use in a curing room. 

The thermometer should be fanned briskly with a good fan 
for three minutes and then the reading taken quickly. We first 
find the dry bulb reading on the chart and then find the wet bulb 
reading in the next column, and in the third column opposite the 
dry bulb reading is the relative humidity, or per cent of satur- 



92 



Cheese Making. 



ation, by which we mean the per cent of water the air is capable 
of holding at that temperature. 

The psychrometer is not as handy as the hygrometer, but is 
considered to be more reliable. 

Table Showing the Relative Humidity in the Air of Curing 

Rooms. (King.) 



Directions. — Notice that the table is in three column sections. 
Find air temperature in first column, then find wet bulb temperature in 
second column, same division. In third column opposite this is relative 
humidity. 

Example. — Air temperature is 50°, in first column; wet bulb is 44°. in 
second column, same division. Opposite 44° is 61, which is the per cent 
of saturation, or the relative humidity of the air. 



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Curing and Shipping the Cheese. 93 

Humidity in the Air of Curing Room — Continued. 



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Cheese Making. 



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Curing and Shipping the Cheese. 95 

201. Condition of the curing- room air. 

The air should have as much moisture in it as it will hold 
without moulding the cheese. Cheese will stand a good deal if 
the air is kept moving, perhaps as high as ninety per cent. If 
kept between sixty and seventy per eent it is very fair, but the 
instruments show that it often gets down to twenty or thirty 
per cent and the cheese dry out rapidly and crack. 

202. Supplying moisture. 

Moisture can be supplied by sprinkling the floor, or better 
still, by hanging up wet sheets that are constantly supplied with 
water. 

To supply a curing room of five thousand cubic feet ca- 
pacity, at least three cloths thirty inches wide by twelve feet 
long are needed. These cloths cannot be supplied from a tank 
by means of wicks, but if there is plenty of running water a pipe 
with fine holes drilled on the upper side might be arranged to 
hang the cloths on and water run through the pipe would keep 
the cloths saturated. A gutter at the bottom would carry off 
the surplus water. 

After a while the cloths will get stiff from sediment from 
the water. Thev should then be boiled in water to which a 
little hydrochloric acid has been added. Do not use enough 
acid to injure the cloth. 

SHIPPING THE CHEESE. 

203. Cheese, how boxed. 

Young Americas are shipped four, Cheddars one, and flats 
generally two, in a box. 

Where flats are shipped two in a box, they are placed one 
on top of the other, and are in that case termed "twins." When 
shipped one in a box, they are called "singles." 

204. Scale boards. 

That the rinds of the cheese may be well protected, "scale 
boards," or very thin basswood or whitewood boards, are 
placed in the box. Two or three are placed on each end 
of the box, and two or three between twins. This num- 
ber is more than is generally used, but cheese in this way 
keep better when placed in cold storage. If flats are put 
together without scale boards, and left for any great length of 
time, they will stick together so tight that they can with diffi- 
culty be pulled apart. The rinds sweat and are easilv broken. 



9ti Cheese Making. 

They therefore need plenty of scale boards. The boxes should 
be trimmed to one-eighth of an inch less than the height of the 
cheese, so that it will hold its place and arrive in market in good 
condition. They should not be more than a quarter of an inch 
larger in diameter than the cheese ; if there is too much room in 
the box, the cheese will be likely to roll around and break the 
box. On the other hand, the box should not be so tight that 
the cheese will stick in it. 

Boxes that are split or poorly nailed should be thrown aside, 
for they will be sure to arrive in the market in a dilapidated con- 
dition. Cheese makers do not realize that boxes that mav be 
in fair condition, may be entirely useless at the other end of 
the journey. 

205. How cheese are weighed. 

In weighing cheese nothing but full pounds are counted. 
For instance, if the weight is 60% pounds, it is counted but 
60, or if the beam barely rises at 01 pounds, it is counted but 
60, for in course of transportation, it would likely lose weight, 
and be cut down, when it is in the hands of the buyer. In the 
large warehouses, where hundreds of boxes arrive in a single 
day, they cannot stop to weigh every box,' but weigh a few 
boxes, and if they fall short, the whole lot is docked accordingly. 
Such weighings are referred to an official weighmaster. 

206. Marking- of weights. 

The weight should be stenciled, or plainly marked on the 
box (not the cover) next to the seam, where it can readily be 
found. A lead pencil hardly makes a sufficiently plain mark on a 
cheese box. The brand of the firm, to whom the cheese is 
shipped, should be stenciled on the other side of the box. 

207. Buyer's stencil. 

The buyer generally furnishes a stencil for this purpose. 
Each stencil, so issued to a shipper, has a distinguishing number 
on it, which is recorded in the buyer's office, and by referring 
to the number they can tell who shipped the cheese. This is 
especially necessary where several factories make up a car load 
of cheese for a firm. 

If a cheese-maker has any cheese that is not first class, he 
should put a distinguishing mark on such and notify the buyer 
to that effect, and the buyer will usually deal fairlv with him, for 



Curing and Shipping the Cheese. 97 

he understands that the maker is not trying to take advantage 

of him. 

208. How to sell cheese. 

Cheese is sold mostly on the dairy boards of trade. The 
buyer, after he bargains for the cheese, should be required to in- 
spect the cheese at the factory and accept or reject it. He 
should then give a draft on a local bank for the amount. The 
bank then draws on the firm for the amount, at the place of 
business of the firm and the cheese belongs to the bank till the 
draft is honored. This is a strictly cash basis, and is fair to both 
parties. When the cheese is hauled to the depot, the boxes 
should be covered with blankets, to protect it from the dust and 
the hot rays of the sun. 

questions on chapter x. 

1. What is the curing process in cheese? 2. At what tem- 
perature should cheese be cured? 3. What has been learned 
by experiments in curing cheese from the same lot of milk at 
different temperatures ? 4. How should the curing shelves be 
made? 5. How should the cheese be arranged on the shelves? 
(J. What two instruments are used for measuring the humidity 
of the atmosphere, and what can be said as to their accuracy? 
7. What precautions should be taken in reading the psychro- 
meter? 8. What is meant by relative humidity, or per cent of 
saturation? 9. What should be the relative humidity pf the 
curing room? 10. How may moisture be supplied to a room 
artificially? 11. How much cloth surface is required for a 
room containing five thousand cubic feet of space? 12. How 
should cheese be boxed? 13. What are scale boards and how 
should they be used? 14. How should cheese be weighed? 
15. How and where should the weights be marked on the box? 



CHAPTER XI. 

JuDomci Cheese. 



209. Ideal cheese. 

One trouble that cheese-makers meet with is. that they do 
not have the proper idea of a perfect cheese in their minds. This 
arises largely from the circumstances under which they are 
placed. The cheese are shipped out of the factory as soon as the 
buyer will take them, the youngest being but a week or ten days 
old. The cheese may have defects, but the maker does not get 
a chance to see how it will turn out. 

Cheese exhibited at the Wisconsin Dairymen's Conven- 
tion is scored according to the following scale : 

Flavor 50 

Texture 30 

Salt 10 

Color 10 

Total 100 




Cheese Trier. 

To try a cheese, a plug is pulled from it by means of a 
cheese trier. The trier should be thin, round and a little taper- 
ing, so that it will pull a round smooth plug. A plug should 
always be taken from the top of the cheese. Never plug it 
through the bandage. 
210. Flavor. 

Flavor is the most important item in the quality of a cheese. 
No matter how good the other points may be. if the flavor is 
bad, the cheese will be condemned. It would be a difficult matter 

98 



Judging Cheese. 9U 

to describe accurately just what the flavor should be like, for 
there are different flavors in cheese, which may be equally good. 
This comes about from the different ferments in the cheese which 
we cannot as yet entirely control. In another five years, bac- 
teriological research will probably overcome this difficulty for 
us. 

The old saying that "the proof of the pudding is in the eat- 
ing of it," is true of cheese. If it tastes good and we want more 
of it, it is just the flavor we should have. It should not be 
sharp so that it will bite the tongue, but of a mild lasting taste. 
A great many cheese, in which the flavor cannot be termed bad, 
are still on the negative side ; they do not have that fine lasting 
aroma, although we can eat them quite agreeably, but do not 
feel that it is a matter of very great importance, whether we 
can have more of the same or not. 

Where experts are judging cheese, they seldom taste of any. 
They get the flavor simply by the smell, for if they tasted of every 
plug they would soon be confused as to flavor. 

If a cheese is cold, it should first be warmed up in the 
fingers, before looking for the flavor. 
211. Texture. 

While flavor stands first in importance, the texture of a 
cheese comes next. The plug should be smooth, not fuzzy. If 
the cheese is not fully cured the plug should bend a little before 
"breaking. When held between the eye and the light it should be 
slightly translucent. If the light does not come through it, it is 
a sign that the texture has been injured in the manufacture, prob- 
ably by too high acid. When a piece is broken from the plug, it 
should not crumble off, but should show a surface such as flint 
does when broken, and is therefore termed a "flinty break." 
When pressed between the fingers it should not stick to them 
"but should mould like wax. Cheese that it tough and will not 
come down readily between the fingers, is said to be '"corky." and 
is probably due to over cooking or insufficient quantity of rennet 
to cure it properly. Cheese should not be mealy, as is the case 
with high acid or too highly salted cheese. 

A cheese with good texture should not have any round, 
smooth or ragged holes in it ; but should be as solid as a board. 

Cheese with the round holes, or one that is soft and pasty, 
"will go off flavor on further keeping. 

LofC. 



100 Cheese Making. 

212. Salt. 

As was said under the subject of salting the curd, salt gives 
flavor to a cheese. In fact, the whole subject of flavor is affected 
by the salt. Cheese that are a little soft and a little inferior 
in flavor could have been entirely remedied by using a little 
more salt. It has also been stated that salt may injure both the 
texture and flavor by using too much. The influence of salt is, 
therefore, partly considered under texture and flavor. 

218. Color. 

Like salt, the color of a cheese really is another way of judg- 
ing its texture and flavor. A cheese without any coloring mat- 
ter added to it is improperly termed "white." An uncolored 
cheese should never be white, but of a light amber color. If 
it is a dead white, it is so because the acid has cut the color out 
of it. Of course in a colored cheese, these things would be 
more easily seen. 

The color should be even from one end of the plug to the 
other. A high acid cheese will give a distinct odor to the trier, 
the same as when acid attacks steel. 

In judging cheese, unless some particular market is in view, 
the shade of color cannot be taken into consideration. New 
Orleans requires a very high color, St. Louis less, and Chicago 
still less, while Boston in this country, and Bristol in England, 
want no artificial coloring. The tendency toward making un- 
colored show cheese seems to be increasing. 

214. Gross appearance. 

A good judge can usually tell the quality of a cheese from 
the outside appearance. It should be square, and the rind with- 
out cracks, for cracks indicate high acid. When the fingers 
are run over the surface, it should be springy, that is, it should 
give readily under the pressure and regain its position. If the 
finger sinks into a place which does not spring back, it indicates 
a hole or soft place in the cheese. The rind should not have 
any white spots on it, as these indicate whey. Sometimes 
the white spots will disappear in time, but it is a weak point 
in the quality of the cheese. When the plug has been replaced 
in the cheese, the place should be greased over, to keep the 
cheese from drying out, and skippers from getting into the 
same. 



judging Cheese. 101 

215. Wisconsin factory cheese makers' scale. 

The scale adopted by the Wisconsin Factory Cheese 
Makers' Association at Fond Du Lac, 1895, is an improve- 
ment over the old one. It is as follows : 

Flavor 45 

Texture 30 

Color 10 

Make up and general appearance 15 

Total 100 

In this the salt is judged in flavor and texture where it 
belongs, while the very important item of the neat way in 
which the cheese is put up gets proper consideration. Under 
the old scale a dirty, poorly bandaged, crooked cheese, might 
get as high a score as a neat square one. 
The English scale of points : 

Flavor 35 

Quality 25 

Texture 15 

Color 15 

Make 10 

Total 100 

In the above English scale quality, that considers that the 
cheese should be mellow, rich, melting on the tongue, applies 
to an old, well cured cheese. The cheese that goes onto the 
market in this country would not do that. 

216. Corky cheese. 

. A corky cheese, as its name implies, has a texture re- 
sembling that of cork. It does not break down and prob- 
ably will crumble in the fingers. There are two general 
causes, over cook and too little rennet. If the cause is the 
latter the cheese will improve with age. 

217. Hard, crumbly or mealy cheese. 

Too much salt will make a hard cheese that will probably 
be mealy. A high acid cheese will have a similar texture, 
but the color will be cut and the flavor affected by the acid so 
that the cause can be distinguished. 

218. Weak bodied, pasty cheese. 

Cheese that has too much whey left in it either by under 
cook or insufficient stirring when dipped, will be soft, and 
will not mold properly, but stick to the fingers. Such a 



102 Cheese Making. 

cheese will show mottled spots on the rind. Too much piling 
on the racks will make a weak bodied cheese. In extreme 
cases the whey will run out causing what is termed a leaky 
cheese. The danger of weak bodied cheese is that they may 
become sour, 

219. Cracked cheese. 

Cracked cheese are caused either by sour curds or by in- 
sufficient closing in the press. The latter probably comes from 
fat covering the particles of curd and preventing their cement- 
ing into one mass. It may also be caused by over cook or 
by a draft of air blowing over a cheese and drying it out 
rapidly. Cheese are more apt to crack in a dry curing room 
in dry weather. 

220. Poison cheese. 

There are occasional reports of people being poisoned by 
eating cheese. Fortunately these cases are quite rare, but 
as these cases are isolated it is difficult for scientists to trace 
the full history of the cheese. Professor Vaughan, of Michi- 
gan, some years ago carried on quite an extensive investigation 
of the chemical nature of such cheese and isolated a poison 
called tyrotoxicon. This poison causes cramps, acts as a 
purgative and paralyzes the lower limbs. The author's atten- 
tion was called to the case of a factory in which some poison 
cheese had been made. The factory was kept in a neat and 
tidy manner so that it is not probable the poison resulted from 
carelessness at the factory. The maker stated, however, that 
every cheese containing poison had been made where the milk 
was held several days before making into cheese, and in no 
case was poison in the cheese where the milk was made up 
each day. The great majority of cases of ice cream poison- 
ing have been traced to church socials, where the cream was 
gathered and held several days before freezing. This evidence 
would indicate that the poison is more likely to occur where 
the milk is held several days before being made up. 

QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER XI. 

1. What are the points in judging cheese and what im- 
portance is attached to each ? 2. Describe the flavor of a 
good cheese. 3. Describe a good texture. 3. How does salt 
affect flavor and texture? 4. Describe a good color. 5. What 



Judging Cheese. 103 

can be learned from the gross appearance of a cheese ? 6. What 
are the English standards for cheese? 7. What is a corky- 
cheese and its two principle causes ? 8. What are the causes 
of hard, crumbly or mealy cheese? 9. What is a weak bodied 
or pasty cheese and how is it caused? ]0. What are the 
causes of cheese cracking? 



CHAPTER XII. 

HINTS ON THE CONSTRUCTION AND OPERA- 
TION OF CHEESE FACTORIES. 



CONSTRUCTION OF FACTORIES. 
'_'_* I . One difficulty in making good cheese. 

A large part of the difficulty experienced in the making of 
good cheese, results from the condition of the factories. In 
order that we may overcome these difficulties, let us look 
at the factories and see where they are wrong in their con- 
struction, and then we will be in a position to suggest a remedy. 

222. Too many small factories. 

In the first place, there are too many small factories in 
which little milk is received, and in which too low a price for 
making is charged, and therefore the owners cannot afford to 
build properly equipped factories. In the older cheese manu- 
facturing districts the tendency has been to build a little shanty 
on every cross-road ; people are beginning to see the folly of 
this, however, and the tide is turning toward larger and better 
equipped factories. 

To avoid the loss of money invested in a good factory by un- 
fair competition one good central curing room can be built. Less 
expensive making rooms can then be put up where the flow of 
milk warrants and the cheese transferred to the curing room two 
cr three times a week. 

223. Poor buildings. 

A great many of the buildings are little more than one 
thickness of boards. The vat room is small, and in hot weather 
the temperature of the curing room cannot be held down to 
the proper point, while in cold weather, both the vat and curing 
rooms get down nearly to the freezing point ; in fact the cheese 
may freeze in the hoops. 

224. Poor foundations. 

The floors are light and poorly supported. Whey is run 
onto the floor, and leaking through, forms a bad mud hole 
under the factory on account of imperfect drainage. 

104 



Construction and Operation. 



105 



225. Whey tank. 

The whey tank is set down in the ground where it cannot 
be cleaned out, and it is allowed to rot week after week, and 
contaminate the milk cans in which the whey is returned to 
the farms. It has even happened that horses have been scared, 
and run away on account of the smell around a factory ! 

226. No hot water. 

In many factories there is no steam, but the milk is worked' 
up in self-heating vats, and there is never water hot enough 
to scald out utensils, or even melt the grease off from them. 
Nor is there a sink for washing tools, and clean wash rags 
and towels are often lacking:. 



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Ground Plan for Cheese Factory. 

Any one who knows about our factories would say that 
probably one-half of them, would answer to this description. 
A great many persons do not like to admit that it is so, but 
we should never turn away from the truth, even if it is not 
attractive, for unless we know the true condition, we cannot 
have a proper basis for improvement. 



106 Cheese Making, 

It is for this purpose that we have drawn this picture, 
that we may know how to remedy our mistakes. We will 
therefore consider how a factory may be properly built and 
equipped. 

Our factory will be equipped for ten thousand pounds of 
milk a day, which is small enough. 

227. Ontario cheese factories. 

One secret of Western Ontario's success is in the fact 
that her factories are large, well built, and properly equipped. 
On pages 105 and 109 the plans for a factory are given. 

228. Good foundations. 

In the first place there should be good solid foundations, 
either of stone piers, or gas pipe, which allows the ground 
to heave and settle, without raising or lowering the building. 
The supports should be close enough together to hold the 
sills in place. 

229. Dimensions. 

Our plans call for a making room 20x30 feet, with an 
office ten feet square taken out of one corner of it, and a 
boiler room 10x16 feet attached, and a curing house 20x40 
feet, two stories high. 

230. Store room. 

The upper story should never be used for curing cheese, 
but for storing cheese boxes and other supplies. 

231. Curing room. 

Some Canadian factories have the curing house separate 
from the rest of the factory, but we can build them together and 
save the lumber for a second wall, which would be necessary 
if they were separated. 

232. Sills. 

We should have 8x12 inch sills around the outside of both 
parts of the building. There should be two 6x8 inch stringers, 
running across the make-room, and one of the same dimen- 
sions running through the middle of the long way of the curing 
room. Ten-foot joists can be put between the sills and string- 
ers. The dimensions of these joists should be 2x10 inches, and 
they can be placed eighteen inches apart. 

233. Curing room floor. 

The joists under the curing room should have rough 
boards nailed close together on the under side, and a five-inch 



108 Cheese Making. 

layer of tan bark put in between them. There will then be a 
five-inch space left above the tan bark, over which a tight, 
heavy floor is to be laid. This may be made, by first laying 
rough boards, and covering with paper, and then laying the 
regular flooring. The tan bark, air space and tight floor are to 
protect from outside temperature. 

23 4 • Vat room floor. 

The making room should have a heavy two-inch floor, 
preferably of maple. It must slope at a scale of one inch in 
five feet, toward a ditch at the lower end of the vats cr twenty 
feet from the front end of the room. 

235. Curing room walls. 

Paper can be put on the studding under the siding, and 
the walls lathed and plastered. The studding is of 2x4, such as 
is generally used, and if tan bark can be easily obtained, it 
can be filled in between the studding. Tan bark is better than 
saw dust for filling in such places, as mice are not inclined to 
work in it as much. It is hardly necessary to say, that the 
top of the room should either be ceiled or plastered. 

The curing room must practically be a large box, with 
walls so constructed that the temperature inside will be af- 
fected as little as possible by the temperature outside ; some 
means of introducing cool, fresh air into the curing room is 
highly desirable. 

The walls and ceilings will therefore have to be of several 
thicknesses, with air spaces between, like the floor which we 
have alreadv described. 

236. Doors and windows. 

We must not forget, after we have built such walls, to have 
the windows fit tight and have shutters on the outside. The 
doors must be heavy, with air spaces in them, and close tight 
with a lever latch like a refrigerator door. 

To construct our walls, we may put up our 2x4 studding 
two feet apart, which is to be lathed and plastered inside. 
On the outside, rough boards and paper may be put, and then 
another row of studding, and paper nailed on with boards on 
the outside of these. In the spaces in the outer row of stud- 
ding, tan bark may be filled in. 



Construction and Operation. 



109 



237. Joists. 

The joists in the ceiling should be 2xG, ten feet long, 
eighteen inches apart, supported by 4x6 running crosswise of 
the room. If the room is ceiled overhead, tan bark three inches 
deep can be filled in between the joists, and then a layer of paper 
put down before the floor is laid. If the room is lathed and 
plastered, boards must be put in to hold the tan bark. The 
second story, which is used only as a store room, need not 
have double walls. A tight fitting trap door should be made 
between the store room above and the curing room below, 
through which to get the cheese boxes down. 

238. Stone cellar. 

A better wall for the curing room in the first story may be 
made of stone, and built into the side of a hill, for still greater 
protection from outside temperatures, as in the case with cel- 
lars for curing of brick and Swiss cheese. The stone and earth 
help to keep down the temperature of the air in the room. 



TSRA* 




Ventilation of a cellar curing room by means of a cowl an<3 ventilator shaft. 

239. Curing' cellars. 

In some places cellars made for curing brick cheese have been 
used with splendid results with Cheddar cheese. Such a cellar 
is built into the side of a hill, is stoned up on the sides and 



110 



Cheese Making. 



rises above the ground just far enough for small windows 
around the top. One trouble with these cellars is that they 
are sometimes so damp that cheese will mould rapidly. 




Plate showing how funnel and vane may be mounted. A, funnel; B, shaft of fun- 
nel; C, C, C, 1-inch gas pipe; D, D, l^-inch gas pipe; E, cap for support of 1-inch 
gas pipe; F, G, H, and M M and N N are stays of band iron bolted together and to 
the sides of the shaft to support the axis of the funnel; J, weather collar to turn rain 
out of shaft. K, L, band-iron to stiffen vane and attach it to funnel. 

Diagram for construction of a cowl for a sub-earth duct. 

240. Cellar, how ventilated. 

This can be obviated by ventilation. At each end of the 
room is an eight-inch pipe running up through the roof. One 
of these has a cone above it to prevent the rain coming in 
through it. On the top of the other is a hood with a tail that 
keeps the hood always facing toward the wind, and the wind 
striking into the hood carries a current of air down into the 
room, while another current of air goes out of the other pipe. 




Plate showing the construction of wood curing room. 1, 1, 1, sill; 2, 2, 2, a two- 
byin spiked to°ends of joist; 3, 3, 3, a two-by-four spiked down after firs layer of 
floor i,Ld to toe-nail studs to; 4, 4, 4, a two-by-four sp.ked to upper end o ud 
din. of first story; A, A, A, A, three :P ly acid and water proof paper. The drawing 
fn the "center shows space between studding filled with sawdust and another dead-a.r 
space to be used when the best ducts cannot be provided. 



112 Cheese Making. 

Dampers similar to those put into stove pipes can be arranged 
in these pipes to regulate the flow of air. If the air should get 
too dry, moisture could be supplied by means of wet sheets. We 
have seen such curing cellars where the inside temperature did 
not go above sixty-five degrees while that outside was eighty- 
five to ninety. We would have to change the plans of the fac- 
tory here given for such a curing cellar. 

241. Sub-earth ducts. 

In his first edition of "Cheddar Cheese Making," published 
in 1893, the author advocated the use of sub-earth ducts for 
cooling curing rooms. Since then the system has been put into 
use and is very successful. As one descends into the ground 
the effect of the sun's heat is left behind. Lower down the 
internal heat is felt, but in a zone said to be between twenty 
an ! eighty feet below the surface there is a constant tempera- 
ture of 48° to 50° or possibly colder. This is indicated by 
the temperature of the spring and well water that comes to the 
surface. By conducting air down into the ground and then 
through a system of tubes ten or twelve feet below the sur- 
face for a hundred feet or more, it can be carried into the curing 
room at a temperature of not over 60° F. If the curing room 
is well insulated the air cannot get in at any other place and 
will be cool. The air is forced into the duct by means of a 
cowl, which always faces the wind, which is thereby forced 
down a tube into the duct. An outlet from the top of the cur- 
ing room allows the warm air to escape. Our curing room 
if built as described, would be right to use with a sub-earth 
duct, but we would suggest that double windows and doors be 
put in to make the room perfectly tight. The illustrations 
here given of the construction of the walls of a room and of a 
duct are taken from Bulletin 70, of the Wisconsin Experiment 
Station. 

242. Use of a well. 

One of our illustrations (page 114) shows how a well was 
used for cooling the air for a curing room. It is one of the 
most successful ducts in operation. 

243. Number and size of tiles. 

The first ducts constructed were single tubes and were too 
near the surface and therefore unsuccessful. The first success- 
ful duct was made by placing thirteen rows, one hundred feet 




Plate showing section of cheese curing room and horizontal multiple sub-earth 
duct. A, inlet to curing room; B, end of sub-earth duct in bricked entrance to fac- 
tory; C, cross-section, of the multiple ducts as placed in the factory of A. C. Werth, 
Neenah, Wis. D, E, bricked entrance under funnel at outer end of sub-earth duct; 
F, funnel with mouth 36 inches across; G, vane to hold funnel to the wind. 




Plate showing vertical section of Mr. J. F. Steinwahn's factory and sub-earth duct 
in well at Colby, Wis. A, A. funnel taking air into well; B, B, B, duct leading air 
from well to curing room, C; D, ventilator. 




Factory with sub-earth duct ventilation, built and owned by Patrick Wallace, 
Whittlin, Wis. The cowl is seen on the left and the ventilator rises above the fac- 
tory in the middle of the picture. 




Eighteen-inch cowl to sub-earth duct at B. B. Herrick's factory, Wellington, O. 
The duct runs down a hill and the factory is seen at the foot of the hill. 



116 Cheese Making. 

long, of six-inch tiles eight to ten feet in the ground. These 
tiles were, however, somewhat small in diameter, and by friction 
hindered the passage of air on still days when most needed. 

Professor King recommends not less than three ten-inch 
tiles one hundred feet long for a curing room of 5000 cubic 
feet of space. Longer tubes and more of them twelve feet 
down would be better. 

244. Electric fans for driving air. 

Electric fans operated by batteries are now very reason- 
able in price, and it has been proposed to move the air through 
the ducts on still days by the use of such a fan. It would not 
need to be kept running the entire time, as the cowl would 
catch the wind successfully if a six-mile breeze were blowing. 

245. Boiler room. 

The boiler room should have a cement floor laid on the 
ground, and it should be lined with corrugated sheet iron, to 
insure against fire. 

246. Building should be raised. 

The rest of the building should be raised about a foot 
above the ground, so that air may circulate beneath and keep 
the sills from rotting. 

247. Water supply. 

A good well is an absolute necessity for a cheese factory. 
Water can be pumped into a galvanized iron cistern placed 
above the curing room. This cistern should be set in a drip 
pan, which will catch any leak or sweat from it, and carry it 
outside without leaking through into the curing room. 

248. Hot water. 

From the cistern, water may be carried in pipes to the 
different parts of the building. The water pipes should be 
galvanized to prevent rusting. There can be a steam pipe run- 
ning into the water pipe by a T, and the flowing water can 
be heated by turning steam into it. 

249. Sewer. 

In connection with the factory, there should be what is 
forgotten in nearly every factory, namely, a proper sewerage 
system. There should be regular six-inch sewer pipe under- 
ground, leading to a stream or blind-well, to convey the slops 
from the buildingf. 



Construction and Operation. 117 

In locating a factory, farmers figure on the handiest place 
for them to haul their milk to, but usually do not at all consider 
the sewerage question. 

250. Blind-well. 

If there is no stream handy the blind-well may have to be 
used. A blind-well, as one would surmise from the name, is 
a covered hole, into which the slops are run and absorbed by 
the ground. Care should be taken not to locate too near the 
water well, as the slops will in such cases percolate through 
the soil to the water supply. The danger from this source 
is greater in cases of gravelly, loose soils. There should be 
an opening to the surface of the ground, for gases will be 
generated and force their way back through the sewer pipe. 

251. Sewer trap. 

At the mouth of the sewer there should be a sewer trap, 
which is simply an W shaped pipe, in which water constantly 
stands and keeps gas from coming up from the sewer. 

252. Sewer in clay soils. 

In a clay soil the slops will not be absorbed fast enough, 
and the sewer pipe will, in that case, have to divide into a 
number of forks to spread the material over the surface, or near 
the surface of the ground. The slops should, in that case, be 
carried six hundred feet away from the factory. 

253. Whey tank, how built. 

The whey tank should be lined with galvanized iron, and 
be placed high enough for a wagon to drive under, and draw 
off the whey by simply opening a valve. The ground ought 
to be paved in such a way that the drip will run off into the 
sewer. A skim milk weigher will facilitate an equal division 
of the whey. 

254. Elevating whey. 

To get the whey from the vat into the whey tank, it can 
be drawn into a box or barrel, and from there forced by a 
steam jet into the whey tank. The whey should be scalded to 
keep it sweet, and after the patrons have gone every morning, 
the tank should be scrubbed out and steam turned into it to 
scald it out. There should be a platform around the tank and 
steps leading up, so that a person can get into it easily. 



118 Cheese Making. 

255. Bath room. 

One thing that a factory should have, though generally 
unthought of, is a bath room. This can be placed above the 
curing room. A room, five by eight feet, can have a floor 
covered with galvanized iron, to catch any drip or slop, and a 
bath tub put in. Hot and cold water can be connected with it, 
and a most desirable thing supplied. 

256. Equipment. 

For a factory of the capacity we are building an eight- 
horse power boiler will be required. A horizontal brick arch 
boiler is preferable to a vertical one, as it will hold the heat 
better, and a person can more easily clean the flues. 

There should be a good steam pump, and possibly an 
engine, though that is not absolutely necessary. For ten thous- 
and pounds of milk two vats of a capacity of 5200 pounds 
will be needed ; these ought to be provided with whey gates 
for emptying them. 

257. Water boxes of vats should be lined. 

It is quite essential also, to have the water boxes of the 
vats lined with galvanized iron, or they will leak, making a bad 
muss on the floor. 

258. Curd sink. 

It will be remembered that a curd sink is a necessary piece 
of apparatus in getting the curd drained properly ; we must, 
therefore, have a curd sink constructed in the way suggested. 

For the curd from 10,000 pounds of milk, two gang presses, 
and either twenty Cheddar or forty flat hoops will be required. 

259. Pressing flats. 

One should not attempt, as is quite commonly done, to press 
two flats in a Cheddar hoop by putting a divider between. 
Artistic looking cheese cannot be made in that way. 

Flat hoops do not cost near as much as they did a few 
years ago, and the expense will be but slightly increased in 
providing the necessary number of hoops. 

260. Sink, how made. 

Another necessary thing, which is seldom found in a fac- 
tory, is a good sink. It should be iron or galvanized iron lined, 
and plenty large enough — say three feet long, by twenty inches 
wide, by twelve inches deep, properly connected with the sewer. 
At the end of the sink, should be a wide shelf or table inclined 



Construction and Operation. 



119 



toward the sink, so that drippings will run off into the sink. 
This shelf is used to drain tinware on, and a steam jet pro- 
jecting through it, can he used to sterilize utensils. 

We need hot and cold water connections at the sink, and 
perhaps a hot water barrel beside it. This barrel may be made 
of galvanized iron, and should be used for a supply of clean, 
hot water, rather than a place to wash dirty tools. This latter 
operation ought to be performed in the sink. 




Wash Sink. 

261. Milk, how lifted. 

If the roadway is not high enough to empty the milk di- 
rectly into the weigh can, a large wheel fixed tight on an axle is 
probably the best appliance for lifting the milk. An endless 
rope runs over the wheel, and by pulling this rope the wheel 
turns and winds up another rope on the axle. This rope has 
tongs on it, which take hold of the milk can. 

The weigh can is placed on an 800-pound double beam 
scale, which stands in a receiving room or covered platform. 
This platform is built out on brackets in front of the factory. 



120 



Cheese Making. 



On one side of the room is a shelf for the milk book, and an- 
other for the sample jars. The milk is run from the weigh can 
to the vat, through an open tin conductor. 
262. Milk testing. 

For testing the milk, we should have a thirty-bottle, steam 
turbine, Babcock test, and a Quevenne lactometer. The Que- 
venne lactometer gives a direct reading of the specific gravity, 
and is used in connection with the Babcock fat test for detec- 
tion of watered milk. 




Milk Conductor Head, for running milk from weigh can to vat. 

263. Appliances needed. 

We will name over some of the minor articles needed in 
the factory, for some of them are usually found lacking, and 
sometimes there are not enough of the articles, to enable one 
to work handily. 

There ought to be two curd knives — horizontal and perpen- 
dicular — and they should be six or eight inches wide and twenty 
inches long. 

A rennet test will be required, and two or three reliable ther- 
mometers, for these are easily broken, and we must not run the 
risk of being without one. 

There will also be needed a hair sieve, linen strainer cloth, 
wash dish, two curd pails, three or four twelve-quart tin pails, 
several dippers, one of which has a flat side, and a perforated 
tin bottom, for skimming specks off from the milk. 

264. Caring shelves. 

The shelves in the curing room are supported by cross- 
pieces, attached to wooden posts. These posts are 4x4s, reach- 
ing from floor to ceiling. The cross pieces are 2x4s, set into 
the 4x4, to keep them from tilting, and a bolt put through to 
hold them in place. The shelves are sixteen foot boards ; sixteen 
inches wide, and one and a half inches thick. They should be 
the clearest pine lumber obtainable. 



Construction and Operation. 121 

The shelving can run crosswise of the room, and if the 
boards are sixteen feet long, there will be a four foot passage 
on the side of the room next to the making room. At the 
further end of the room from the door to the making room, ten 
feet of space can be left for boxing cheese. 

265. Cost of factory. 

The factory we have suggested will cost more than the 
ordinary run of factories, for it is much better. Nothing that 
will be a waste of money has been suggested. Certain firms 
put up factories which are inferior to this, for which they get 
a third more money than this would cost. 

As the cost of material in different localities varies so 
much, we have not set a price on this factory, but the necessary 
facts are given, so that any one can figure on the cost of the 
building for his own locality, and then reliable firms will fur- 
nish machinery at reasonable prices. 

QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER Nil. 

1. What is the necessity of good foundations for a factory? 
2. How should the curing room wall be constructed? 3. Why 
are double windows needed in the curing room? -i. How should 
the curing room door be built? 5. What is the advantage of 
a curing room in a cellar? G. How mav such a room be ven- 
tilated? 7. What is the principle on which a sub-earth duct 
works ? 8. How many and how large tiles should be used ? 
9. How deep should the tiles be placed in the ground? 10. 
How long should a duct be? 11. How may air be forced 
through the duct? 12. How large should the cowl be and how 
high should it be placed? 13. How can a well be utilized as a 
duct? 15. How can hot water be secured? 1(5. Why should 
the water pipes be galvanized? 17. What can be said of good 
sewer connections? 18. What is a blind well? 19. What is a 
sewer trap? 20. How far should the sewage be carried from 
the factory? 21. How should the whey tank be constructed? 
22. How should the whey be drawn off? 23. How can the whey 
be elevated ? 24. Why should the water tanks to the vats be 
lined? 25. How should the curd sink be constructed? 26. 
Why should flats not be pressed in Cheddar hoops? 27. How 
should a wash sink be made? 28. How should the curing 
shelves be constructed? 



CHAPTER XIII. 

ORGAOTZATION OF CHEESE FACTORY 
ASSOCIATION. 



266. Plans of operation. 

Cheese factories are operated on two plans, namely, the 
private and stock company systems. In the first named plan the 
factory is owned by an individual who furnishes everything in 
the manufacture, and receives a certain price per pound for 
such manufacture, the milk and the cheese being all the time 
considered the property of the patrons. The patrons then have 
some form of organization for the purpose of selling the cheese 
and dividing the money, and looking after their interests gen- 
erally. 

Under the other system the farmer's organization goes 
further and owns the factory, and the officers do all business 
and hire a cheese maker to manufacture the cheese. Co-opera- 
tive associations are usually not successful unless a business 
manager is given full authority to manage the business. 

The following by-laws will give a general idea of how to 
organize such an association : 

267. By-laws for a cheese factory association. 

Article I. Name — This Association shall be known as the 

Cheese Company. 

Article II. Capital Stock — The capital stock of the Association 
shall be $4,000, divided into two hundred shares of twenty dollars each. 

Article III. Officers — The officers shall be a president who shall 
have general oversight of the business of the Association and prosecute 
any case at law that may arise. A treasurer shall receive and dis- 
burse all money and keep a proper set of books which shall be open to 
inspection of any member of the Association at any time. He shall be 

the salesman for the Association. He shall receive $ per annum for 

his services. There shall be a secretary who shall figure all milk divi- 
dends. He shall be Chairman of the Test Committee. 

Article IV. There shall be semi-annual meetings of the Associa- 
tion on the first Tuesday in March and October, three days' notice of 
the time and place of meeting to be given by the president. Special 

122 



Organization of Cheese Factory Association. 123 

meetings may be called by the president, three days' notice of the time 
and place to be given, and upon the written request of ten members of the 
Association the president shall call such a meeting. 

Article V. The division of money for cheese sold shall be deter- 
mined by the fat test of the milk, after expense of making has been de- 
ducted. The remaining amount of money shall be divided by the number 
of pounds of butter fat delivered during the time said cheese was made, 
to determine the price per pound of butter fat, and each patron shall re- 
ceive that price per pound for the butter fat delivered by him during that 
time. 

Article VI. Test Committee — There shall be a test committee of 
three members beside the secretary who shall assist the cheese maker in 
testing the milk. 

Article VII. The price for making cheese shall be one and a half 
cents per pound. 

Article VIII. The cheese maker may reject any milk that in his 
judgment will not make first class cheese. 

Article IX. No milk will be received at this factory that has not 
been properly strained and aerated. 

Article X. These by-laws may be altered at any legal meeting by 
a two-thirds vote of the members present, providing there are at least 
ten members present at such meeting. 

The above by-laws can, of course, be changed to suit any 
particular locality or conditions. The amount of capital stock 
may be altered, or such articles changed to make them suit a 
private factory. 

268. Test committee. 

Article VI, which organizes a test committee, is for the 
purpose of preventing dissensions. We quite often hear it stated 
that the maker reads the tests low to get a larger yield, or that 
he favors one patron more than another. Such statements 
may be founded on facts, but are generally the results of sus- 
picions. Now if the patrons have a committee of their number 
to see the tests made, such a committee can not fail to secure 
justice. 

269. Quorum. 

The matter of the number that shall constitute a quorum 
has been purposely left out, for in such an association it is not 
very important, and might hinder in the business of some meet- 
ings. The article on the revision of the by-laws contains a 
clause that practically names a quorum in such a case. 

270. Rates for making. 

In some Canadian stock companies there are two rates 
charged for making the cheese, a stockholders' rate and a 



124 Cheese Making. 

patrons' rate, which is higher than the former. The patron 
is not entitled to whey. It belongs to the corporation, to be 
fed to hogs owned by the association, or disposed of as the 
stockholders see fit. Each share of milk entitles the owner to 
have fifteen thousand pounds of milk made up at stockholders' 
rates, and after that he must either get another share of the 
stock or pay patrons' rate for all milk made up above that 
amount. The object of this rule is to make each patron take a 
financial interest in the factory. 

271. Figuring dividends. 

Perhaps this is the proper place to speak of figuring divi- 
dends. As is indicated in one of the by-laws the price per pound 
of butter fat should be found, and each patron paid for the 
pounds of fat delivered by him. 

Cheese may be sold each week, but the dividends are made 
for the month. 

The composite samples of milk are saved as described 
under the head of milk testing, and tested once a week. The 
pounds of milk delivered by the patron multiplied by the per 
cent of fat, gives the pounds of fat delivered by him. The 
amount of money left after paying all expenses is then divided 
by the total pounds of fat for the month to get the price per 
pound of fat. And then the number of pounds of fat delivered 
by each patron, multiplied by the price per pound, gives the 
amount due him. Theoretically the pounds of milk delivered 
each week should be multiplied by the weekly test, but the 
tests from week to week if averaged together for the month, 
and then the monthly milk multiplied, will give very close to 
the amount found if each week's fat were found and added to- 
gether for the month, and a large amount of labor is saved. 

If there is a small surplus or shortage of money in figur- 
ing, it can be added to or subtracted from the next month's 
money before determining the price per pound. 

For an example of dividing money suppose there are three 
patrons, and during the month they delivered milk as follows: 

A 3,000 lbs. milk testing 4. %=120 lbs. fat. 

B 2.200 lbs. milk testing 3. 5 %= 77 lbs. fat. 

C 1,000 lbs. milk testing 4. 5 %= 45 lbs. fat. 

Total for month 6,200 lbs. milk testing 3.90 %=242 lbs. fat. 



Organization of Cheese Factory Association. 125 

By dividing the pounds of fat by the pounds of milk for the 
month, and multiplying by 100 we get the average test of all 
the milk for the month. It is not needed in the figuring of the 
dividends, but it is interesting to know what the average test is. 

Suppose the cheese made from the milk was 620 pounds 
and sold at 10 cents per pound. We then have $62.00. The 
cost of making was $9.30, and we have left $52.70 to be divided 
among the patrons. By dividing this amount by the 242 pounds 
of fat we get 21.777 cents per pound. Then 

A has 120 lbs. fat @ 21.777 cts.= $26,13240 

B has 70 lbs. fat @ 21.777 cts.= 16.76829 

C has 45 lbs. fat @ 21.777 cts.= 9.79965 

Total $52.70034 

We had $52.70 to be divided. One should always prove his 
figures to be sure they are correct. 

272. Factory statement. 

A statement containing all necessary items should be given 
each patron so that he can figure the dividend himself. There 
should be a printed form for this. The following may be used: 

MUSCODA CHEESE ASSOCIATION FACTORY. 

Statement for 

Month of 19 

Sales include following dates to 

No. pounds of cheese sold lbs. 

Amount of money received $ 

Average price per pound cts. 

No. pounds of milk delivered 

No. pounds of fat delivered 

Average test 

Expenses 

Money to be divided 

Which leaves cts. per pound of fat 

No. pounds of milk delivered by you 

Your average test 

Pounds of fat delivered by you 

At cents per pound $ 

Dr. by pounds of cheese at cts. per pound 

Money due you 

No. pounds of fat required for 1 pound cheese 

No. pounds of cheese from 100 pounds milk 

Sec. 



126 Cheese Makixc. 

questions on chapter xilt. 

1. What are the two general plans on which a factory 
may be operated? 2. Why are co-operative companies usually 
not successful? 3. Describe how dividends are figured. 4. 
Why should a statement be made to each patron when a divi- 
dend is declared? 5. What are the important points in such a 
statement? 



CHAPTER XIV. 
SWISS CHEESE-ITS CHARACTERISTICS. 



273. Sweet curd cheese. 

It will be remembered that Cheddar cheese was first made 
in England and was introduced into America by the emigrants 
from England. In like manner the manufacture of a number of 
other styles of cheese has been introduced. These styles 
are what are generally termed sweet curd. The Cheddar is 
made from ripened milk and a certain amount of acid is de- 
veloped in the whey. With the sweet curd varieties, however, 
the milk must be "sweet," the milk being curdled and cooked 
up as rapidly as possible and then put into the moulds before 
salting. The salt is nearly all applied to the outside of the 
cheese by means of dry salt rubbed on the surface or by soaking 
the cheese in a strong brine. 

Among these cheese are "Swiss," of the round and block 
varieties, brick and Limburger. Swiss cheese has been made 
in this country quite as long as has the Cheddar, and with 
the brick and Limburger, will soon be, if it is not already, 
entitled to the name "American." 

274. Switzeiy where made. 

.American Swiss, or "Switzer," as it is called, is made to 
the greatest extent in this country in Green and Dodge counties, 
Wisconsin ; in Wayne, Stark, Summit, Columbiana and Tus- 
carawas counties, Ohio ; and in New York State. The makers 
are mostly natives of Switzerland, who have emigrated to 
this country and brought their methods of making with them. 
These methods can probably be improved upon in a number 
of ways as will be indicated. 

275. Description of Switzer cheese. 

vSwiss cheese is known in the old country by the name of 
Emmenthaler. Its origin is not definitely known, but it has 
been made in the canton of Bern since in the fifteenth century. 
In this country it is made in two forms, the round or drum 
Swiss, and the block Swiss. 

127 



138 Cheese Making. 

The drum Swiss is pressed in large round cakes, twenty- 
four to possibly thirty-six inches in diameter, and four to six 
inches in thickness. Such a cheese will weigh, on the average, 
about 180 pounds. The block Swiss is six inches square by 
twenty inches long, and weighs twenty-five to thirty pounds. 
The illustration shows a drum Swiss cheese cut open. On top 
is laid a square which indicates the size of it. The illustration 
of two block Swiss on page 132 will give an idea of their pro- 
portions. 

276. Determining quality of cheese. 

In order to intelligently discuss the manufacture of the 
cheese, we should know what is required in a Swiss cheese to 
make it of the best quality. 

277. Flavor. 

First as to flavor. We will say that flavor is a hard matter 
to describe, the same as the flavor of a Cheddar cheese is hard 
to express in words. It can be said, however, that the Swiss 
cheese has a slightly salty taste peculiar to itself, a taste that 
is very pleasing. A cheese that is bitter to the taste is to be 
condemned. 

278. Texture. 

A good Swiss cheese should have the right dough, that 
is, it should not stick to the fingers, nor, on the other hand, 
be too dry, but should mould in the fingers like wax, or as the 
term indicates, like dough. It should also have plenty of eyes 
or holes about a half an inch in diameter, evenly distributed 
through the cheese, as is seen in the illustration. These holes 
should have a glossy surface, which is again an indication that 
the dough is right. If it is too soft, these holes will have a dull 
surface. In an old cheese a drop of brine may be found in the 
hole. 

279. Color. 

The color should be white. The native Swiss cheese is 
very light colored, probably on account of the feed that the 
cows get, the character of the fat given by the native cows 
(we know that Guernsey milk is exceptionally yellow, while 
Holstein milk is light colored), and by the length of time that a 
cheese has cured. Cheese that are quite yellow will turn white 
with more age and cannot be distinguished from the native 
article, and except for the name "imported" are just as fine. 




A typical Swiss cheese, cut showing characteristic holes or "eyes." A square 
on top of it shows its size. The eyes reflect the light showing that they have a shiny 
surface. 




A cut through a Swiss cheese of second quality. The hole next to number 1 is 
round, but has a dull surface. The holes near the number 2 are small and are typi- 
cal of a "niszler." The cracks near the number 3 are typical of a glaesler. The rule 
lying along the side shows the relative sizes of the holes. 



130 Cheese Making. , 

One reason why foreign cheese meets with so much favor in 
this country is that it does not reach the consumer till it is 
thoroughly cured, and if the American cheese of the various 
kinds be allowed to get thoroughly cured it will meet with the 
same favor. 




A series of plugs from Swiss cheese of different quality. Nos. 1, 2, 3 would be 
classed as No. 1 cheese, though 2 has rather too many holes. Nos. 4 and 5 show the 
cracks of a glaesler and the corresponding pasty appearance. No. 6 at the upper end 
indicates a niszler, though a typical niszler would have the small holes the entire 
length of the plug. No. 7 is what would be termed a blind cheese as there are no 
"eyes" or holes. 

280. Grades of cheese. 

There are, however, poorer grades of this Swiss cheese that 
are not represented by our illustration, for that cheese is an ideal 
one, a typical article. Cheese are really put into three grades, 
No. 1, No. 2 and No. 3. Cheese like the one shown on page 129 
with the right dough and flavor, and the right kind and distri- 
bution of holes is classed as No. 1 cheese. Cheese without eyes 
or holes is termed blind and classed as No. 2. A cheese with 
little gas holes (called pin-holes in Cheddar cheese) is termed a 
niszler, meaning "a thousand eyes." One that is pasty and will 
stick to the fingers usually has few round holes, and if it does 
have them thev are not glossv on the surface. Such a cheese is 



Swiss Cheese — Its Characteristics. 131 

likely to have checks or cracks running, usually in a horizontal 
direction, through it. These cracks are supposed to resemble 
the fracture of a piece of glass and hence the cheese is called a 
glaesler. The illustration on page 129 shows a cut through a 
piece of cheese which presents three different kinds of holes 
designated by the numbers on the surface. No. 1 shows a round 
hole, but on close inspection it will be seen that the surface is 
not glossy as is the case with the holes in the typical cheese 
shown on page 129. No. 2 shows smaller holes as found in a 
niszler. A niszler may have the small holes all through it or in 
local portions of it. No. 3 shows a characteristic crack of a 
glaesler. The pocket rule hung on the cheese indicates the size 
of the holes. 
281. How cheese is tried. 

When a buyer goes into a factory to buy cheese he cannot, 
of course, cut any of the cheese open, as shown in the illstra- 
tions. He sees the inside of it by drawing a plug with a cheese 
trier, as is done in buying Cheddar cheese. The picture on page 
130 is a photograph of typical plugs of Swiss cheese. Plugs 1, 
2 and 3 have the proper kind of holes though No. 2 has rather 
too many to be classed as No. 1 cheese. Again, the holes in 
No. 3 or at least one hole, was too large, for it cut the plug en- 
tirely off. It would, however, probably pass for No. 1. Plugs 
4 and 5 have the cracks of a glaesler, and the. little particles of 
curd roughed up show it to be pasty. Plug No. 6 shows a 
niszler at the upper end, while plug No. 7 is blind. 

Now to review the classes of Swiss cheese, the require- 
ments for No. 1 are that : 

1. The flavor shall be good. 

2. The texture shall have the right dough, i. e., it must not 
be too dry, neither stick to the fingers, but mould like wax. It 
shall have the right kind of eyes evenly distributed. 

3. The color should be light. 
For No. 2 cheese would be included : 

1. Cheese of a second rate flavor. 

2. Glaesler or blind cheese. 

3. Cheese with a very uneven or abnormal development of 
eyes. 

4. Niszlers. 

No. 3 cheese would include : 




Block Swiss cheese as it appears when of fine quality. 




Block Swiss cheese bulged at sides from too rapid formation of gas. The salt did 
not work to the center fast enough. 



Swiss Cheese — Its Characteristics. 133 

1. Cheese of bad flavor. 

2. Cheese damaged by rats or mice. 

3. Cheese cracked open. 

Cheese damaged by rats or mice or cracked are very likely 
to rot at such points. 

The buyer in the presence of the cheese maker determines 
the grade of the cheese, and marks it on the edge with his 
trier by gouging out I., II. or III. marks. He afterwards 
brands it with a hot branding iron, the brand being usually his 
initials. When the price of Xo. 1 is 9M> cents, the price of Xo. 2 
will likely be 8 cents, and Xo. 3 will sell for from 3 to 5 cents. 

Italians like glaeslers better than cheese with the eyes in it. 
and will often pay Xo. 1 price for the glaesler and reject a Xo. 
1 cheese. Some makers regularly turn out cheese of Xo. 1 
quality, while others have considerable difficulty in so doing, 
and the difference in price makes a very large difference in the 
size of the maker's pocketbook. The criticism that is often heard 
regarding our Cheddar cheese is, that there is not enough dis- 
tinction made in price between good, indifferent and bad cheese. 
That criticism cannot apply to the Swiss cheese markets for the 
judgment in buying is very rigid. 

QUESTIONS OX CHAPTER XIV. 

1. What are the two kinds of cheese which are made with 
reference to the amount of acid developed? 2. Under what 
class does Cheddar fall? 3. Under what class does Swiss 
cheese fall? 4. How is the salt usually applied to sweet curd 
cheese? 5. Where is American Switzer made in greatest quan- 
tities? G. By what name does Swiss cheese go in Switzerland? 
7. What are the two kinds of Swiss made in this country? 8. 
What is a good flavor in a Swiss cheese? 9. What is a good 
texture in a Swiss cheese? 10. What is meant by the dough of a 
Swiss cheese? 11. What is meant by the eyes of a cheese? 12. 
What should be the size of these eyes, how should they appear 
on their surface and how should they be distributed? 13. What 
should be the color of a Swiss cheese and what conditions in- 
fluence it? 14. What are the three grades of cheese and what 
conditions determine the grade into which a cheese goes? 15. 
What is a niszler cheese? 16. What is a elaesler cheese? 



CHAPTER XV. 

SWISS CHEESE — FROM MILK TO CURING 
CELLAR. 



282. Selection of the milk. 

As has been previously explained, Swiss cheese is made 
from sweet milk. So important does this seem to be that the 
milk is delivered to the factory twice a day and made immedi- 
ately into cheese. It is believed by a good many makers that 
under all circumstances the rennet should be gotten into the 
milk just as soon as possible. 

283. Cause of glaesler cheese. 

Exception may, however, be taken to the opinion that all 
milk for Swiss cheese should be set immediately when received 
at the factory, for as may have been observed in the experi- 
ment with rennet, a very sweet milk does not curdle rapidly 
nor is the curd as firm as the curd from riper milk. It takes a 
certain amount of acid (probably about .17 per cent) to make 
the rennet expel the whey properly. With too sweet milk, 
such as is obtained In the cool weather of the fall months, it is 
hard to get a good cook on the curd and such cheese will have 
a pasty texture, and a pasty texture will make a glaesler cheese. 

284. Rennet test should be used. 

The milk for Swiss cheese should not be as ripe as for 
Cheddar cheese, but the rennet test should be used to deter- 
mine the condition of the milk, and then the milk, if it is too 
sweet, should be brought to this point each day, by holding or 
by the addition of a small starter. One of our students reports 
that with the Marschall rennet test used in his factory, a milk 
that tests five or six will be sure to give a glaesler cheese, while 
milk at 3% will not do so. It should be remembered that Mar- 
schall tests vary (89) so that each maker will necessarily have to 
determine rt what point by his particular test the milk should be 
set. 

285. Use of a starter. 

Swiss makers very largely use a home made rennet, which 
is made up by them each day by soaking strips of rennet in 

134 



Swiss Cheese — From Milk to Curing Cellar. 135 

whey. It is even claimed that commercial rennet extract is not 
as good as the whey rennet, for they cannot obtain the eyes 
with it. The explanation for this probably is, that the whey 
used acts as a starter which supplies the necessary acid in the 
milk to make the rennet expel the whey sufficiently. At the 
same time gas germs may be added which will make a niszler 
cheese (271). Freudenreich has shown that the lactic acid germ 
is desired in making good Ementhaler. By using a commer- 
cial rennet extract, after adding a good lactic acid starter, a 
cheese with a good development of eyes can be obtained. As 
this is being done in actual practice it shows that the idea, prev- 
alent among Swiss makers to the extent that it is almost a law, 
that good eyes cannot be obtained with commercial rennet ex- 
tract, is incorrect. Of course the amount of starter required 
will not be as much as for Cheddar cheese (112). 

286. Test of rennet solution not correct. 

When a maker makes up his whey rennet, he tries a certain 
quantity of it on a sample of milk to see that it is of the right 
strength. If the acidity of the milk were the same each time, 
as well as the acidity of the whey used, this might be correct, but 
as a different lot of milk with a difference in acidity is used, it 
will be seen that this is not a correct way of determining the 
strength of the whey rennet. It is, therefore, better to use a 
commercial extract that will be of the same strength each day. 

287. Swiss kettles. 

Swiss cheese is made in large copper kettles that vary in 
size from a capacity of 600 pounds to 3000 pounds of milk. 
There are two kinds, the fire kettle and the steam kettle. 

The fire kettle hangs on a strong wooden crane and the 
height of the kettle is adjustable. The adjustment is obtained 
by means of a strong iron screw on which it hangs, and which 
passes through a nut in the crane. The kettle hangs over a fire 
place. This fire place is built in a semi-circular form just large 
enough to receive the kettle, and connects with a chimney for 
the exit of the smoke. The front of the fireplace is built of 
sheet iron, and is semi-circular in form, so that wnen closed it 
just fits around the front side of the kettle. It is hinged on the 
brick work on one side (the side opposite the kettle crane) and 
the further end of it hangs from an iron crane which is also placed 
on the side of the fireplace opposite the wooden crane. By 




Swiss kettle in the Raul) factory, near Monroe. Wis. The kettle hangs en a 
heavy wooden crane. The front of the fireplace over which the kettle hangs also 
hangs on a crane and can he swung out so that the kettle can be swung away from 
the fire. The opening below the grate will be seen in front of the kettle. The round 
cover is dropped over the top when the kettle swings forward. 




View in the Stearns factory, near Monroe, Wis., showing the kettle swung around 
in front of the weigh can. The cover to the fireplace has been dropped. 



Swiss Cheese — From Milk to Curing Cellar. 



13^ 



turning this crane this sheet iron front can be swung out of 
the way so that the kettle can be swung out into the room. 
When the kettle is swung out of the fireplace, this front can be 
closed and a sheet iron lid, hinged against the chimney, can be 
dropped to cover up the hole for the kettle. A grate is placed 
in the bottom of the fireplace, and a fire door in the sheet iron 
front gives a place for the operator to tend the fire on the grate. 
The steam kettles are set permanently on the floor. A 
steam jacket is riveted on the lower part so that steam can be 
used for heating the milk. A plug in the bottom connects with 
a pipe for carrying off the whey. 




Interior of Swiss cheese factory at Florence, Ohio. Steam kettles are used and 
the whey is skimmed with a centrifugal separator. 

388. Filling the kettle. 

The milk is strained into the kettle the same as into a vat 
for Cheddar cheese. If a fire kettle is used the kettle may be 
swung in front of the receiving window. Milk for Swiss cheese 
should be paid for by fat test, the same as for Cheddar cheese. 
It is sometimes claimed that rich milk does not give as good 
eyes as poor milk. This opinion probably comes from the milk- 
being richer in the fall when the weather is also cooler, which 
of course, keeps the milk sweeter with the attendant results 



138 



Cheese Making. 



of very sweet milk. (274.) Rich milk will make more and better 
Swiss cheese than poor or skimmed milk. 
289. Setting the milk. 

When the milk is all in the kettle the temperature should 
be noted. The milk has probably not been cooled at home, 
though it ought to have been aerated. (33.) It is therefore 
probably warm enough for setting. If, however, the tempera- 




bJoo(T Kettle 



Cfurd stirrer 



ture is found to be below 86° F., the milk should be warmed to 
that point. The rennet is then added and stirred in with a 
large wooden or tin scoop. The milk is put into a whirling mo- 
tion in the kettle by this operation, and after stirring for four 
or five minutes the motion should be stopped, so that the 
coagulum, when it begins to form, will not be broken by the 
force of the current. In the course of twenty to thirty minutes 
the curd should be readv to cut. 



Swiss Cheese — From Milk to Curing Cellar. 1-41 

with the wire stirrer mentioned above, and the curd breaks 
and contracts into pieces as fine as wheat. It is stirred until 
the temperature has been raised to 40° or 42° Raunier. Raumer 
thermometers which start with the freezing point of water as 
0° and run to 80° at the boiling point are used almost entirely 
by Swiss makers. 40° and 42° are therefore equal to 130° and 
135° Fahrenheit After the whey has reached this temperature 
the kettle is swung away from the fire or the steam is turned 
off, as the case may be. The stirring is however continued until 
the curd is quite firm, when it is allowed to settle. 

296. Testing curd for firmness. 

A curd is considered firm enough for dipping when it ceases 
to feel mushy and will squeak between the teeth. Some makers 
test the cook by squeezing it into a roll in the hand and then 
noting when it will break short. 

This is a point where the maker's jugdment is very im- 
portant. If the curd is not cooked enough it will result in a 
glaesler, and if cooked too much the fermentations will work 
so slow that eyes will not form. 

297. Dipping the curd. 

When the curd is finally firm enough, the wooden brake 
in the side of the kettle is taken out and the curd is set whirling 
in the kettle so that when it settles it will settle in a lump in the 
middle. It is then gathered up into a linen strainer cloth for 
pressing. The cloth is gathered at one edge in the hand and 
wet in the whey, and then spread out and rolled onto a flexible 
iron band. The opposite end is held by an assistant, or if the 
operator is alone, he holds it in his teeth, and then the iron band 
is bent into an arch and slid under the lump of curd. The cor- 
ners of the cloth are then tied together and the whole thing 
drawn up with a rope and tackle which runs on a pulley and 
track, like a hay fork, to the pressing table. 

It is claimed that if the pieces of curd that are collected at 
last are put in to the center, they will cause it to crack and 
from the crack a rotten place will start. The curd should there- 
fore be put into the hoop in a lump, and as quickly as possible, 
so that it will not become cool and brittle and therefore crack. 
Where there is curd enough the lump in the kettle may be cut 
in two and put into two hoops in different dippings. 



142 



Cheese Making. 



We have seen that the curd is cooked to 135° F., and it 
seems a very high temperature for a man to put his arms into as 
the maker has to do when he scoops the curd into the cloth. 
Some observations on this point will show that the whey cools 
down to 115° or 120° before the curd is taken out, and is quite 
different from the other high temperature which would prob- 
ablv scald him. 




A round Swiss cheese in the hoop. The cheese is made the thickness of the 
hoop, and the diameter is adjusted accordingly by the rope which runs around it. 
A round board lies on top and presses the cheese into the hoop. 

298. Pressing drum Swiss. 

The pressing table is usually on a brick or stone wall and 
is slightly inclined so that the whey will drain off. The curd 
cloth with the curd in it is put into a hoop made of a band of 
elm wood held in circular shape by means of a cord that runs 
around it. Our illustration shows such a hoop with a cheese 
in it. The hoop rests on a circular press board while a similar 
board is placed on the top of it. The hoop is adjusted in diame- 
ter by means of the cord so that the curd a little more than 
fills it. 

For the first fifteen minutes it is pressed lightly, then a little 
more pressure is applied, and in half an hour full pressure is put 
on. It is turned several times a day, the cloth being taken off 
and readjusted each time. There are usually two cloths used in 
the operation, one cloth lying underneath, and the other spread 
over the top and tucked in between the hoop and the cheese. 
The last time it is turned the date is marked on it with lamp 
black. Dry cloths are put on several times during the day. The 
cloths should be kept clean by thorough washing and scalding. 




Block Swiss moulds. A, the adjustable end, moved by a screw. B, the partition 
which fits into the grooves making the right sized moulds after the blocks are cut. 
C, the cover or follower. 




Block Swiss under pressure in individual moulds. 



144 Cheese Making. 

The press may be worked partially by means of a screw as 
shown in the illustration, but the main pressure is obtained by 
placing a post between the cheese board and a heavy beam. 
The post is close to the fulcrum end of the beam, while the 
long, heavy end of the beam gives the pressure. 

299. Pressing: block Swiss. 

Block Swiss is practically the same as a round Swiss in 
every way but the form in which it is pressed. It is first pressed 
into a rectangular cake twenty inches wide and six inches thick. 
A sliding end regulated by a screw adjusts the volume of the 
mold to the quantity of the curd. It is turned and pressed in 
this mold just like a drum Swiss for the first twelve hours. It 
is then cut into blocks six inches wide and put into another mold 
with partitions in it just large enough for each piece. Some- 
times, however, the curd is pressed from the start in a mold six 
inches wide by six inches deep and twenty inches long. 

300. Marking- cheese. 

When a cheese has been in the press twenty-four hours it is 
taken out. it should be perfectly square at the edges with no 
wrinkles left in it by folds in the cloth. A black paste made of 
butter and lampblack is used for marking the date on it. It is 
just as important to keep a record of the way a Swiss curd may 
act as it is with a Cheddar curd. Such a mark will enable the 
maker to follow the cheese in the curing cellar. 

301. Salting- the cheese in brine. 

Most makers salt their cheese in a brine bath. A tank of 
brine is kept in a cool room, sometimes right in the cellar. The 
brine is made up by dissolving salt in water until the brine form- 
ed is dense enough to float an egg. As cheese are salted in the 
bath and absorb salt, it is necessary to renew the salt quite often. 
The» cheese is immersed in the brine, turning it over occasion- 
ally, as the cheese will float and the top rise a little above the 
surface. A cheese is kept in the brine for three or four days, 
according to the amount of salt it is desired to work into it. 

302. Salting- with dry salt. 

Some makers do not use a brine bath for salting, but scatter 
coarse salt on top of the cheese. The cheese is kept on a shelf 
in the cellar, with a salting hoop around it. This hoop is used 
simply to keep the cheese from spreading while it is soft. The 
salt draws moisture from the cheese. This moisture dissolves 




Curing cellar in Five Corners factory, near Monroe. The large drum Swiss 
cheese are on the shelves. The small boiler supplies steam for moisture when too dry. 




Block Swiss cheese in cellar at Stearns' factory, near Monroe, Wis. The large 
brush B on the post is used for washing drum Swiss cheese. The brine tank A is to 
be seen. 



14G Cheese Making. 

the salt and acts as a medium for the transmission of the salt to 
the interior of the cheese. No more salt should be applied than 
can be absorbed over night, so that the cheese will be dry next 
morning. It is claimed that with the brine method the salt is 
applied more evenly to all parts of the cheese. A cheese is 
salted with dry salt from three to five days. If gas shows in a 
cheese by its huffing or bloating, a little more salt applied to that 
locality will check the gas. 

QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER XV. 

1. What is the cause of glaesler cheese? 2. How much 
acid should milk for Swiss cheese have before setting? 3. 
How may the acidity of milk for Swiss cheese be deter- 
mined ? 4. Why are makers more likely to have glaesler cheese 
in the fall months than in summer? 5. What is the effect 
of whey rennet in regard to the acidity of milk? 6. What is 
also the possibility with regard to gassy fermentations when 
whey rennet is used? 7. What is the probable cause of 
glassier cheese when commercial rennet is used and how may 
this be remedied? 8. How much lactic acid starter may be used 
in milk to be made into Swiss cheese? 9. Why is the test for 
strength of whey rennet as generally practiced in factories not 
correct? 10. What are the two classes of copper kettles used? 
11. How are the fire kettles arranged? 12. To what other cause 
than rich milk can glaesler cheese in the fall be attributed? 13. 
What effect on yield and quality of cheese does the butter fat 
have ? 14. At what temperature should milk for Swiss cheese 
be set? 15. Why is the current of milk around the kettle stop- 
ped in a few minutes after adding the rennet? !(!. When is a 
Swiss curd ready to cut? 17. How much rennet should be used 
in making Swiss cheese? 18. How is a Swiss curd cut? 19. 
Describe a Swiss harp. 20. Why is a Cheddar curd knife better 
for cutting a Swiss curd than a Swiss harp? 21. What is the 
purpose of the wooden brake placed in the side of the kettle 
while heating the curd? 22. At what temperature should a 
Swiss curd be cooked? 23. How do the Raumer and Fahren- 
heit scales compare? 24. When is a curd sufficiently firm for 
dipping? 25. What is the effect of an over cook? 26. What 
is the effect of an under cook? 27. How is the curd gathered 
into a lump or cake when firm enough to dip? 28. How is the 



Swiss Cheese — From Milk to Curing Cellar. 147 

press cloth put around the cake? 29. How is the curd trans- 
ferred from the kettle to the pressing table ? 30. How is a drum 
Swiss pressed? 31. How is the hoop or mold adjusted? 32. 
Why should care be taken in putting the last pieces of curd with 
the lump on the press? 33. What trouble may result if the 
curd cracks? 34. How are the cloths adjusted on the cheese? 
35. How is a cheese marked? 36. What two methods of salt- 
ing Swiss cheese? 37. How strong should the brine be made? 
38. How long is a cheese left in the brine ? 39. How is a cheese 
dry salted ? 40. What advantage is claimed for brine salting 
over dry salting? 



CHAPTER XVI. 
SWISS CHEESE-WORK 1^ THE CELLAR. 



303. Starting the_eyes. 

From the salting shelf or brine tank the cheese is taken to 
the curing cellar. The curing covers two stages and the cheese 
should be handled in two cellars to secure the proper conditions 
for a perfect curing. The first curing cellar should be kept at 
a temperature of about 70° F. At this temperature the gassy 
fermentations set in and start the eyes. By sounding on the 
cheese by tapping with the finger, the eyes can be located for the 
cheese will begin to sound hollow. Care should be taken to 
prevent the eyes forming too much in one part. Eyes may be 
checked by salt, or they may be developed by a little higher 
temperature and more moisture. As a cheese dries out the eyes 
are checked. A steam jet in the cellar will provide desired 
moisture. 

304. Reason for making block Swiss. 

Block Swiss are handy for cutting. Sometimes where the 
fermentations are hard to control, block Swiss is made instead 
of the round variety, for the blocks being smaller, gassy fermen- 
tations can be checked quicker, and on the other hand, where 
the eyes are slow in forming they can be coaxed easier. 

305. Handling on the shelves. 

The large round cheese is kept on a round cheese board. 
This is so that the cheese can be handled easier. The cheese is 
kept free from mold by frequent scrubbing with a long-handled 
brush made for the purpose. When it becomes necessary to 
turn a cheese, it is carried on this cheese board to a table, where 
it is flopped over onto another board of the same kind. The 
turning at the press is done in like manner. 

306. The second cellar. 

After the eyes have been well started, the cheese is transfer- 
red to a second cellar which is kept at about 60° F. Here the 
eyes may still develop slowly, but they should not bloat the 
cheese. If a maker attempts to cure cheese in one cellar, he 

148 



Swiss Cheese — Work in the Cellar. 



149 



will be likely either not to get the eyes started, or if they do start 
they may develop too far. 

307. Handling - block Swiss in cellar. 

Block Swiss being smaller than drums are more easily 
handled. They should be washed often enough to keep them 
clean from mold. Care should be taken, however, not to keep 
them wet, for in that case the rinds will soften. 

308. Length of curing period. 

Swiss cheese cures slowly. As described under the para- 
graph on galactase, this enzyme breaks down the hard curd into 
soluble peptones. This process takes a number of months and 
a fine Swiss cheese should be at least eight or ten months old 
before it is ready for consumption. 




A load of three tubs of cheese, weighing a ton and a half, being delivered at 
Grunert's warehouse, Monroe. 

309. Boxing drum Swiss. 

Drum Swiss are shipped in large tubs. The tub is made 
a little tapering, and to fit the diameter of the cheese. First 
a large round scale board is put in the bottom of the tub. A 
cheese that just fills the tub in diameter is lifted in and 
pressed tight against the bottom. Another scale board next 
follows and on top of this another cheese is crowded. In this 
way probably six cheese are put in a tub. On top of the 
last a scale board is placed and then the circular cover is 
forced down on top, by the maker standing on it and gently 
crowding on a'l sides. With this pressure on it the cover is 
nailed into place. In this way the cheese will be prevented 



150 Cheese Making. 

from moving and being injured thereby. Quite often a thous- 
and pounds of cheese will be filled into one tub. If the cheese 
has to stand in storage a long time, especially if warm, it 
may sweat some and the scale boards will prevent the cheese 
sticking together and spoiling the rinds. 

310. Boxing block Swiss. 

Block Swiss is put up in boxes six inches deep, twenty 
inches wide and three feet long. Such a box will hold a row 
of six cheese. A paper is put in the bottom of the box, scale 
boards between them, and another paper on top. The method 
of grading cheese has been explained (272). 

311. Whey butter. 

It has been explained that in the methods of making 
Swiss cheese more fat is lost in the whey than in the manu- 
facture of Cheddar. It is the general practice in Swiss fac- 
tories to make butter from the whey. In the great majority 
of factories this butter is little more than grease. The reason 
for this is that very crude methods are employed in the 
manufacture of it. The fat as it rises on the whey is soft be- 
cause it is warm. Under these warm conditions bad fermenta- 
tions are at work causing poor flavors. The cream obtained 
is churned without being properly cooled with ice and the 
grain is therefore soft and greasy. The grease thus obtained 
sells for about ten cents a pound. 

By the use of a separator a much more efficient skimming 
can be done, and the cream will be thick. With ice and a 
proper vat for holding it, fat in the cream can be hardened 
and ripened slowly, and fairly good flavors obtained. Then 
if churned at a low temperature, an efficient churning will be 
possible with a good grain and a very fair flavor will be ob- 
tained in the butter. If this butter is then held in a refrigerator 
until shipping, a much better price can be obtained for it. At 
the present writing a number of factories where the whey is 
handled in this way are turning out butter that sells for twenty 
cents per pound, whereas the factories that are making grease 
in the old way are turning out an article that brings but ten 
cents. It pays to do things right. 



Swiss Cheese-Work in' the Cellar. 151 

QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER XVI. 

1 \t what Temperature should Swiss cheese be kept to 

start the eves? 2. How may the location of eyes m the 
start tne c>c development 

cheese be determined? 3. How may an o r 

of eves in local points in a cheese be checked? 4. What is 
the effect of a dry atmosphere on the development o eyes? 
How max moisture be supplied to a cheese cellar. • 
WhatTs the advantage m making block Swiss instead of Drum 
Swiss' 8. How are drum Swiss handled on the shelves . 9. 
How is a drum Swiss cheese turned? 10. At what temper*- 
U,r7 should the second cellar be kept? 11. Why should Uffd 
and new cheese not be kept in the same cellar? 12. How 
often lould Swiss cheese be washed? 13. What will be the 
effect of keeping the cheese too damp? 14. How long is 
necesary to cure Swiss cheese? 15. How are drum Swiss 
cheese shipped? 16. What is the use of the scale board be- 
een the rinds? IT. Why should the cheese be crowded 
too the tub? 18. How many cheese are placed ,n a tub 
d what is their aggregate weight? 19. What is the size o 
a box for block Swiss? 20. How many cheese are put in a 
box? 21 How can whey butter be made to bring a much 
better price than is usually obtained for it? 



CHAPTER XVII. 
BRICK CHEESE. 



312. Characteristics of brick cheese. 

Brick cheese is probably so called because it is made in 
the form of a brick, and bricks are used for pressure on the 
mold. 

It is of a milder flavor than Cheddar, is moist and suits 
a large number of people who like mild cheese especially. It 
can be cut into thin slices which do not crumble and this 
brings it into favor. 

It may have a few small holes in it, but does not have the 
large eyes of a Swiss. It is softer than Swiss, but not so soft 
as Limburger. The real difference between brick and Limbur- 
ger is that it contains less moisture and is cured in a drier 
atmosphere, which conditions of moisture in and out of the 
cheese influence the character of the fermentation in it. 

313. Quality of milk required. 

F'or brick cheese, the milk should not be as ripe as milk 
for Cheddar, and on the other hand it should not be so sweet 
that the rennet will not expel the whey properly, for it will 
have a tendency toward Limburger in the softness of the text- 
ure and gas germs may get more of an ascendency in the cheese 
than when the milk is ripened further before setting. If the 
milk is ripe enough so that the curd will string on the hot iron 
before it can be gotten out of the whey, a Cheddar flavor will 
develop. One of the finest Cheddar flavors that the author has 
ever observed, was in a brick cheese in which an eighth of an 
inch of acid was developed on the curd at the time of dipping. 

314. Milk, when received. 

It is evident that milk may be received but once a day if it 
is properly cared for. in fact it will be less liable to develop gas 
in the cheese if the milk has a few hours age. On the other 
hand, milk that is over ripe cannot be used without destroying 
the peculiar character of brick cheese. 

152 



Brick Cheese. J 53 

The rennet test and the acid test previously described (82 
and 101) are of importance in obtaining milk of the proper 
acidity for brick cheese. If the milk is found to be very sweet, 
a lactic ferment starter may be added, so that a pure lactic acid 
fermentation may predominate over the gas forms, and thereby 
secure a cheese with fewer holes. 

315. Quantity of rennet required. 

Brick cheese is a quick curing cheese, and a little more 
rennet is used than for a medium curing Cheddar. The milk 
will, of course, be a little sweeter than for Cheddar and enough 
rennet is used to coagulate it in twenty minutes. 

316. How cooked. 

Brick cheese is made in a steam vat, is set at 86° F., the 
curd cut and the temperature raised for firming, the same as 
with Cheddar. The temperature at which the firming takes 
place depends on the acidity of the milk. With milk nearly as 
ripe as for Cheddar, 108° F. will do, while 118° or 120° may be 
required for very sweet milk. The temperature usually em- 
ployed is about 114° F. 

317. Testing curd for firmness. 

Curd, when ready to dip, should feel as firm as curd for 
Cheddar cheese. An over cook will make the cheese dry and 
corky, and an under cook will make a soft cheese approaching a 
Limburger. 

318. Dipping the curd. 

When the curd is firm enough, the whey is drawn off so 
that only enough is left in the vat to keep the curd from mat- 
ting together. A few handfuls of salt per 1000 pounds of milk 
are then added to the milk for the supposed reason of check- 
ing gas fermentations, but as the salt dissolves in the whey and 
runs away, this operation can be of little use. Some makers 
are in the habit of salting the milk by placing salt in the strainer 
when the milk is running into the vat, to check acid and gas. 
This, however, is positively injurious to the milk (93) and does 
not accomplish the object sought. 

319. Brick cheese molds. 

The brick cheese mold is a rectangular box without bottom 
or top. The common size is ten inches long by five inches wide 
and eight inches deep. In some localities they are eight and a 
half instead of ten inches in length. 




Making Brick ( 




Brick and Limburger cheese moulds. A, moulds. B. follower. C, draining board. 



Brick Cheese. 155 

Slits sawed on the inside enable the whey to more readily 
escape. Sometimes molds are made of perforated tin, but they 
do not hold the temperature as well as wood. 

320. Draining table. 

These molds set on a draining table. The table is about 
thirty inches wide, by six, eight or ten feet long, and inclined 
toward one end. A guard two inches high is fastened to the 
upper end and sides. A half inch strip is fastened along the 
inside of this guard to rest the draining boards on. 

321. Draining- boards. 

These draining boards are a foot or sixteen inches wide 
and have several rows of inch holes bored through them. These 
boards are laid in the draining table with their ends resting on 
the aforementioned half inch strips. A cloth, such as is used 
on the racks in Cheddar cheese manufacture, is thrown over the 
draining board, and the molds are set side by side on top of this 
cloth. 

322. Filling the molds. 

The table sets close to the vat, and the operator stands 
between it and the vat. With a curd pail he dips the curd out of 
the vat and fills it into the molds. The whey goes through the 
clotb, and the holes in the draining boards, and runs down the 
table and into a whey gutter. Care should be exercised to get 
just the same amount of curd into each mold so that the cheese, 
when the curd is all pressed tight together, will be about three 
or four inches thick, and will weigh six pounds green. Wooden 
followers that just fit in the molds are then put in on top of the 
curd. 

323. Pressing the cheese. 

One or two bricks are placed on top of the follower in 
each mold for pressure. In an hour or two the mold is turned 
over and the pressure applied to the other side. This may be 
done several times during the twenty-four hours that the 
cheese is in the press. 

324. Salting the cheese. 

At the end of twenty-four hours, the cheese is taken out 
of the molds and salted. The salting is done in a salting room, 
which is really a cellar room between the making room and the 
curine cellar. 



jjp^N 7 iS^TT*~l 




Brick cheese in the molds. A cloth is placed under the molds. 




Round brick or imitation Munster cheese in the tin molds 




Brick and Munster cheese in curing cellar. 



Brick Cheese. 157 

The salting table is built like the draining or pressing 
table, with the exceptions that the sides are ten or twelve inches 
high and there are no draining boards laid on it. 

Each cheese is rubbed with salt on all sides of it. 

The salt dissolves and penetrates to the interior of the 
cheese, at the same time expelling moisture which runs off from 
the table. When the cheese is partially salted, the surface is 
scraped with a tool which is much like a piece of a saw blade. 
The small teeth scrape up small particles of the curd which are 
rubbed into the little crevices left between the particles of curd, 
and in this way a smooth rind is formed. The salting usually 
extends over three days, the cheese being turned each day and 
a little coarse salt being laid on the upper side. 

They are piled two or three layers deep, being laid on their 
broad sides. They may be piled deeper each daw 

325. Curing- the cheese. 

From the salting table the cheese is carried to the curing 
cellar, where it is laid on tiers of shelves arranged around the 
room. These shelves are ten or twelve inches apart. The 
cheese are laid on their broad sides for a week or two until they 
begin to cure, when they may be laid on their edges. 

The cellar should be kept at a temperature of about 60° F. 
and the relative humidity should be 80 to 90 per cent. This, it 
will be seen, is a little higher than is best for Cheddar cheese. 
With, such a humid atmosphere the cheese will probably mould, 
and the maker is kept busy washing the mould off from the 
cheese. He gets around to wash each cheese at least once or 
twice a week, and if necessary oftener. The water used may 
be clear water, or it may have a little salt dissolved in it. 

326. Appearance of gas — remedy. 

If gas appears in the cheese it will huff up and bulge out 
at the ends, sides and edges. Where this occurs to any great 
extent the value of the cheese is reduced, and the best remedy 
is to apply the Wisconsin curd test and eliminate the cause. 
The value of this test was first demonstrated in brick cheese 
lactories. 

327. Curing process. 

A plug from a green cheese will be very harsh to the feel, 
and the plug will bend like rubber. In the course of about two 



158 Cheese Making. 

weeks the harshness begins to disappear, and the cheese will 
break down in the fingers, and mould like wax, though it is 
somewhat softer and the plug more elastic than Cheddar. 

Brick cheese is usually shipped when it is a month old. If 
cured slowly, it is better at two months old, but being softer it 
is not as long lived as Cheddar. 

328. How the cheese is shipped. 

When brick cheese is ready to ship, it is wrapped in a good 
quality of Manilla paper and packed in rectangular boxes that 
are twenty inches wide, five inches deep, and three feet long, 
the same size as a Limburger box and one inch shallower than 
a block Swiss box. Each box will hold twenty to twenty-five 
cheese, and the net weight of the cheese in the box will be one 
hundred and five to one hundred and twenty pounds. The box 
weighs about fifteen pounds more. 

329. Fancy styles. 

It has been pointed out that the market calls for odd sizes 
and shapes of Cheddar at higher prices than for the large Ched- 
dar form. The same thing is true of brick cheese. A round 
cheese called a Minister is made in every way the same as brick, 
excepting that the molds are round, and made of tin with holes 
punched in the sides for the whey to more readily drain out. 
Being round they are always laid on the flat ends to keep them 
in shape. The salting and curing is the same as for brick, as is 
also the method of shipping. 

QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER XVII. 

1. Why is brick cheese called by that name? 2. What are 
the characteristics of brick cheese? 3. What quality of milk is 
required for brick cheese? 1. How often should milk be re- 
ceived? 5. What can be said about the use of a lactic ferment 
starter in milk for brick cheese? 0. How much rennet should 
be used to set milk for brick cheese? 7. In what kind of a 
milk receptacle is brick cheese made? 8. How does the tem- 
perature, at which the curd should be cooked, vary with the 
acidity of the milk? 9. How firm should the curd be for dip- 
ping? !(>. What would be the effect in the cheese of an over 
cook? 11. What would be the effect of an under cook? 12. 
How far is the whey drawn off from the curd before dipping? 
13. Describe a brick cheese mold. 14. Describe a draining 
table and draining- boards. 15. What kind of a cloth is used to 



Brick Cheese. 159 

cover the draining boards? 1G. How is the curd filled into the 
molds? 17. What are the dimensions and weight of a brick 
cheese? 18. How is the pressure applied to the cheese? 19. 
How long is the cheese kept in the molds ? 20. Describe a 
salting table. 21. How are brick cheese salted? 22. How are 
the little crevices on the surface between particles of curd filled 
in ? 23. How long is the cheese salted ? 2-L At what tempera- 
ture should brick cheese be cured? 25. What should be the 
relative humidity of the air in the cellar? 2(>. Why and how 
often should the cheese be washed? 27. What physical change 
does brick cheese undergo in curing? 28. How is brick cheese 
packed for shipment? 29. How long should brick cheese be 
cured ? 30. How does the life of brick cheese compare with 
that of Cheddar and Swiss, and why? 31. What is Minister 
cheese and how it is made? 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

Limburger Cheese. 



330. Origin of Limburger. 

Limburger cheese is of foreign origin, having come from 
the province of Luttick in Belgium. Its manufacture in this 
country is, however, carried on by the Swiss and German rather 
than by Belgian emigrants. 

331. Characteristics of Limburger. 

Limburger is perhaps more generally known by its odor 
than by anything else. Many people who have never tasted it 
recognize the odor. But while it is kept cool it does not have 
such a pronounced odor as when warm. It is found on the 
market in blocks five inches square and about two inches thick, 
wrapped in Manilla paper and tinfoil. It has a soft texture of a 
yellowish color. 

332. Kind of milk required. 

Limburger is made from sweet milk. Except where the 
milk is gassy, very sweet milk is not an objection as with Swiss 
or brick cheese, for the reason that it is to be made soft and 
pasty anyway, and if the milk were too ripe the rennet would 
expel too much moisture. 

333. Utensils used. 

A steam vat and curd knives, like those used for Cheddar 
and brick cheese are used in the manufacture of Limburger. 
A draining table like those used for brick cheese is also used 
but the molds and subsequent handling are different than for 
brick. 

334. Setting the milk. 

As the milk used may be sweeter than for brick it should 
be set at 90° F., which is a little higher temperature than is 
used in making brick cheese. It is probably made up twice 
a day and the temperature of it when received may be a little 
higher than this. If it does happen to be higher it can be set 
at the temperature it happens 1o be without cooling it to 90°. 
Enough rennet should be used to coagulate the milk in twenty 
to thirty minutes. 

160 



Limburger Cheese. 1^1 

335. Cooking Limburger curd. 

The curd is cut when as firm as for Cheddar and hrick, 
that is, when it will break over the finger with a clean frac- 
ture. The curd is stirred and the temperature raised in the 
same manner as for the above mentioned kinds with the ex- 
ception that the firming is done at a lower temperature. Ninety- 
six degrees is the temperature at which it is usually cooked. 
If the milk is very sweet the temperature must necessarily be 
a little higher than when some acid has developed. The curd 
is dipped when a little softer than in making brick cheese. 

336. Dipping the curd. 

When the curd is firm enough the whey is drawn down so 
that it just covers the curd as is done in making brick cheese. 
The Limburger mold is made just like the brick mold with the 
exception that it is twenty inches long instead of ten. The 
curd is dipped into these molds and allowed to settle together, 
brick pressure being applied. After about half an hour it may 
be turned over. After resting in this position for fifteen or 
twenty minutes the mold is lifted from the cheese, which is then 
a block five by twenty inches, and two and a half to three inches 
thick. It is next divided into four sections so that each section 
will be five inches square. The cutting may be done with a 
common large bladed knife, but a better contrivance is a knife 
with three blades five inches apart. It is made in the follow- 
ing manner: A heavy piece of tin five inches wide and fifteen 
inches long is reinforced by a strong wire in the edge. Three 
pieces of heavy tin, four inches wide by five inches long, with 
the ends turned over to stiffen them, are soldered five inches 
apart on one side of the larger piece of metal. By simply 
pressing this instrument clown on the block of curd, the three 
blades cut it into four equal-sized cakes. 
337. Limburger pressing table. 

The cakes are next transferred very carefully to the press- 
ing table. This can hardly be called a press, as the cheese get 
no pressure beyond their own weight. The table is like the 
draining table with sides four inches high, but no draining 
boards are used. A rectangular frame the size of the table fits 
inside the table. A row of the cakes is placed along one side 
and are divided by wooden partitions four inches high and five 
inches long. When the row is completed a long strip, the 




I.imburger molds on pressing table, showing the long pieces and the short parti- 
tions between. 






fflffifflffl 




Limburger cellar. In front is the salting table with the cheese in the salt. In 
the foreground is a box containing salt. The cheese is to be seen on the shelves. 



Limburger Cheese. 103 

length of the table, is placed against the row and another row- 
is laid down. In this manner several rows are laid down and 
the last long strip held in place by several sticks wedged in 
between the strip and the opposite side of the table. The cakes 
are turned a number of times in order to drain them and firm 
the surfaces. The temperature of the room should be about 
60° F. In twenty-four hours they go to the salting table. 

338. Salting Limburger. 

Limburger is salted in much the same way as brick cheese. 
First the edges are rolled over in a box of salt and then salt 
rubbed on the two broad surfaces. It is laid on the draining 
table in single layers for the first day. The second day it is 
salted again in the same way and piled in two layers. The 
third day it is salted again and piled three or four layers deep. 
Limburger is salted on the average about four days. 

339. Curing Limburger. 

The curing of Limburger is a putrefactive fermentation. 
It goes from the salting table to the curing shelves, where the 
cakes are laid on their broad sides. They are washed every 
day with water to keep them free from mould and to keep 
them moist. The atmosphere of the cellar should have a rela- 
tive humidity of 95 and the temperature should be about 58° 
to 63° F. Under these conditions the surface soon begins to 
get shiny and soft and change from white to a reddish yellow. 
This change works its way to the center, changing the harsh 
curd to a soft condition. After about ten days the cheese may 
be set close together on their edges. This change requires 
from four to six weeks to work to the center, and the cheese 
is then ready to ship. 

340. Shipping Limburger. 

The cheese is first wrapped in Manilla paper and then in 
tin foil and is packed in boxes twenty inches wide, five inches 
deep and thirty-six inches long. It may be held in storage for 
a month or two longer before it reaches the consumer, but 
being so soft it is not long lived. 

341. Cause of the putrefactive fermentation. 

The main cause of the putrefactive fermentation is the 
extremely moist condition in which it is kept. It may be 
brought about in harder cheese like brick and Cheddar, if thev 



16± Cheese Making. 

are kept wet, or come in contact with each other or a moist 
wall, in a very moist atmosphere. 

QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER XVIl'l. 

1. Where did Limburger cheese originate? 2. What are 
the characteristics of Limburger? 3. In what kind of packages 
is Limburger found in the market ? 4. What quality of milk is 
required for Limburger manufacture? 5. What kind of vat and 
curd knives are used ? 6. At what temperature is the milk set ? 
7. At what temperature is the curd firmed? 8. What would be 
the effect of over ripe milk on the cheese? 9. How firm should 
the curd be when ready to dip? 10. What kind of a mold is 
used and what are its dimensions? 11. How much pressure 
is applied to the curd in the molds? 12. What is the treat- 
ment of the curd in the molds? 13. Into what sized blocks is 
the curd cut when the mold is removed? 11. How is the curd 
cut into blocks? 15. Describe a pressing table. 16. How long 
is the cheese left on the pressing table? 17. How is the 
cheese salted? 18. How long is the cheese left in the salt? 19. 
How is Limburger handled in the curing room? 20. How long 
is Limburger in curing and what is the physical change that 
takes place? 21. How is Limburger packed for market? 22. 
What conditions especially favor the characteristic fermenta- 
tion of Limburger. 



CHAPTER XIX. 
EDAM CHEESE. 



342. Characteristics of Edam cheese. 

In our best grocery stores one sees cheese put up in the 
form of round balls about six inches in diameter. They are 
colored a dark red or are of a bright yellow color, or may be 
wrapped in tin foil. Each cheese weighs about four pounds 
and sells for a dollar, or at the rate of twenty-five cents per 
pound. The texture is perfectly solid and has a flavor much 
like an old Cheddar excepting that it is a little more salty and 
is a little harder. 

343. Origin of Edam cheese. 

By referring to a map of 

Holland it will be seen that 
North Holland is that por- 
tion of the country west of 
the Zuyder Zee. Edam is 
situated on the Zuyder Zee, 
about twelve miles northest 
of Amsterdam. Edam cheese, 
together with Gouda, is made 
in other parts of Holland, but 
that portion north of the North sea canal on which Amsterdam 
is situated, and west of the Zuyder Zee, is especially devoted to 
Edam cheese. Every week markets are held at Edam, Purmer- 
end, Alkmaar and Hoorn for the sale of cheese. 
344. Farming of Holland. 

A large part of the country is below the sea level. Shallow 
lakes or seas like the Zuyder Zee have been surrounded by 
dikes, and the water pumped out, leaving level stretches of 
country that grow luxuriant crops. The cattle are of the breed 
known in this country as Holstein Friesian. There are a few 
cheese factories, but the farmer usually makes his milk into 
cheese in his own dairy. The utensils are crude, the milk being 
set in a wooden tub and the necessary rises in temperature 

165 





Dutch farmers washing cattle at the canal in Punnerend. 




A Dutch farm scene in the Beemster Polder. Cattle in the barnyard just before 
milking time. 



Edam Cheese. 167 

secured by heating a part of the milk or whey in a kettle and 
adding it to that in the tub. The cheese room, stable, living 
apartments and tool rooms are usually all under one roof. In 
May the cattle are turned out in the fields until November, and 
the stables are cleaned out and usually used for curing rooms. 
As there is a lack of wood for lumber the houses are built of 
stone or brick, which holds the temperature, and as the coun- 
try is surrounded and tempered by the sea, ideal conditions 
are naturally present for curing cheese. 

The factories have vats which are heated by steam as in this 
country. 

345. Edam cheese in Holland. 

Edam cheese has been classed with the sweet curd cheese, 
but we believe that the best quality of it really approaches very 
close to the Cheddar. Hollanders have considerable trouble 
with the gassy fermentations, and use a starter of sour whey 
which contains a lactic acid germ. The milk is also made up 
once a dav, which gives the night's milk a chance to ripen. The 
author observed sour Edams in the factories and dairies, and 
011 the markets, which shows that the lactic acid sometimes gets 
the start of the makers. The purpose of the whey starter is to 
check the gaseous fermentations. 

346. Treatment of cheese for market. 

The cheese is marketed when it is about a month old. It 
may mould some on the shelves, and is therefore washed and 
then dried. A coat of linseed oil is rubbed over, which makes 
the cheese shine. It is loaded into carts without boxing and 
carried to market. 

347. Description of an Edam market. 

On arriving at the market, which is a large open space in 
the middle of the city paved with stones, straw is first laid 
down on the pavement and the cheese piled on it in pyramidal 
pile like so many cannon balls. The pile is covered over with 
a cloth to protect it from the heat of the sun. When the 
market opens, buyers pass among the piles and try a sample 
from each pile with a tryer the same as is done with other 
cheese. If the bargain is closed the salesman and buyer shake 
hands as if they would never let go, but if on the contrary no 
bargain is made, the buyer goes on and the salesman turns the 
plugged cheese over and places it in the bottom of the pile, and 




Farm buildings at De Riip, North Holland. 




Inside of stable shown above. The cows are now out at pasture. Edam cheese 
is curing on the shelves. 



Edam Cheese. 



169 



awaits the next inspection of his goods. When the cheese is 
sold, it is placed on skids, which will hold about 150 cheese, and 
official weighers place it upon large balances in the market 
building and balance the cheese with official weights. The buyer 
then takes possession of his cheese. The price paid will probably 
correspond to the price paid for Cheddar in this country. The 
best cheese reach this country, but are not consumed until they 
are eight, ten or possibly twelve months old. The fine charac- 




Curing room of an Edam cheese factory at Hoogskarspel in North Holland. 

teristic flavor cannot be developed in less time, and it must be de- 
veloped at a temperature not to exceed 65° F. When it is 
cured, it may be smoothed down in a turning lathe. The red 
color is obtained by immersing it for half a minute in an alco- 
holic solution of carmine. 

348. Possibilities of manufacture in America. 

As the milk in America is generally richer, the sanitary 
conditions better, and the climatic conditions can be artificially 
supplied, it is possible to make an Edam in this country 
that is fully equal to, if not superior to the best imported Edam. 




The weekly cheese market at Hoorn, North Holland. The market building where 
the cheese is weighed is just beyond the statue. 




Weighing Edam cheese at the market at Hoorn. 



Edam Cheese. 171 

349. Market for Edam in America. 

Edam as sold at wholesale in this country, is packed in 
cases of one dozen cheese each or about fifty pounds, and sells 
at about $7.50 per case. This is fifteen cents per pound, and 
ought to encourage the manufacture of this kind of cheese. 
Many wholesale houses are very anxious to buy it in large 
quantities. 

350. Method of manufacture. 

The description already given will give a fair idea of Edam 
cheese as found in Holland. As the methods of manufacture 
used in Holland are crude, the method here given will be for 
practical and scientific conditions as found in America. 

351. Quality of milk required. 

As has been explained, Edam is really a cheese in whicn 
the lactic fermentation is developed. The milk then must De 
such as are used for Cheddar, and the acidity should be deter- 
mined by the rennet test in like manner ; in fact, the milk 
should be colored and set, and the curd cut and firmed in the 
same manner as for Cheddar. When one-eighth of an inch 
of acid shows on the hot iron, the whey should be drawn and 
the curd stirred free from whey. 

352. Handling- the curd for Edam. 

The curd is held for a time in the vat or curd sink in a 
granular condition, to air and develop acid, until it will string 
half an inch to an inch on the iron, and then it goes into the 
molds. 

353. Edam molds. 

The molds for Edam cheese, as found in Holland, are 
mostly made of wood, but manufacturers of dairy supplies in 
this country have found difficulty in making them of wood, so 
that they will hold their shape and not check. They are there- 
fore making cast iron melds which are turned down and gal- 
vanized. Each mold consists of two parts — a bottom part 
shaped like a bowl with hemispherical bottom; and a top, the 
interior of which is a true hemisphere that fits into the bottom 
part, and when pushed into it leaves an interior space per- 
fectlv spherical. The two halves have flanges on the ends 
which make them set squarely against other molds or the press 
heads. Holes drilled through these flanges enable the maker 




Edam Mold. 




Mold Top. 





Inside of Top. 




At Press. 



Inside. 



Edam Cheese. 173 

to insert an iron hook and pull the top and bottom apart. Sev- 
eral small holes through the ends of the halves allow the whey 
to escape from the imprisoned curd. 

354. Methods of pressing. 

In Holland two cheese go in a press together, one mold on 
top of the other with a brick or wooden 4x4, 3 feet long, above 
them both for pressure. A Young American gang press is bet- 
ter than this, as it saves both labor and space. 

355. Hooping the curd. 

The curd is packed in the mold as tight as it can be 
crowded with the hands, and is rounded off on the top. The 
cover is placed on top and the mold placed in the press. Press- 
ure is applied gradually for a few minutes and full pressure 
put on in ten minutes. In half an hour the cheese is taken 
out and dressed. 

356. Dressing Edam cheese. 

If just the right amount of curd is placed in the mold, the 
cheese will be spherical and not much of a paring will have to 
be taken off where the edge of the two hemispheres meet. 
A bandage of cheese cloth is now wet with warm water and 
wrapped around the cheese, and a small cap laid on each end; 
This coming between the iron mold and curd makes the cheese 
close perfectly. Care should be taken to lap the cloth evenly 
so that when taken off from the cheese deep wrinkles will not 
be left. The cheese is pressed for the remainder of twenLy 
hours. It is then taken out, and if desired, the bandage may 
be taken off immediately, or it may be left until later to prevent 
cracking. It can, however, probably be taken off more easily 
when fresh from the mold. 

357. Salting Edams. 

The cheese is now rubbed with salt and placed in a salting 
cup. This is a cup slightly larger than the bottom part of the 
mold. Tt holds the cheese in shape and allows of a thin layer 
of salt on the underside. It is salted daily, turning it each 
time, until it feels hard. It then goes to the curing shelves. 

358. Curing Edam. 

The curing process is practically the same as for Cheddar, 
and the same conditions must be obtained ; that is, a tempera- 
ture of about sixty degrees and a relative humidity of about 
eighty. 



1?4 Cheese Making. 

359. Shelves for new cheese. 

The shelves for the new cheese have holes about two inches 
in diameter cut out, and reamed out on the top side so that the 
cheese does not get out of shape, setting squarely on its end. 
After a month or six weeks it can be set on end without injury 
to the cheese. Of course each cheese is turned and rubbed 
every day or two, and if any tendency to crack occurs (which 
by the way is one of the serious difficulties that will be met) a 
very little salt scattered on the surface will check this tendency. 
When the cheese is a month old, a little cheese grease or oil 
rubbed on the surface will prevent a too rapid drying out. 

360. Length of curing' period. 

This kind of cheese will not be a success unless it is cured 
at a temperature not to exceed sixty-five degrees for at least 
eight or ten months. A year of curing will be better. The fine 
flavor comes from the lactic acid fermentation to start with, and 
then a slow curing in which the curd is changed to soluble 
peptones, such as give this cheese and Cheddar their particular 
flavors. 

361. Preparing the cheese for market. 

The cheese, when fully cured, should be washed and then 
scraped or turned down in a lathe. If the fancy requires it, 
the rind may be colored with an alcoholic solution of carmine, 
as previously indicated, and then wrapped in tin foil to prevent 
further evaporation. 

A box 18x24 inches, six inches deep will hold a dozen 
cheese. Paper should be put in the top and bottom of the box 
and thin pieces of board placed between them. 

QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER X'l'N. 

1. What are the characteristics of Edam Cheese? 2. Where 
did Edam cheese originate? 3. Where in Holland is the city 
of Edam? 4. What is peculiar about the farms in Holland? 
5. What breed of cattle is kept in Holland? 6. Do farm dairies 
or cheese factories predominate? 7. In what kind of a vessel 
is the cheese made and how is the temperature regulated? 8. 
Of what material are the houses in Holland built, and how does 
this affect the temperature of the curing rooms? 9. What are 
the climatic conditions in Holland in regard to the conditions 
for curing: cheese? 10. Is Edam a sweet curd or acid curd 



Edam Cheese. 17 5 

cheese? 11. What kind of a starter is used in Holland? 12. 
What is the purpose of the whey starter as understood by the 
Dutchmen? 13. How is the cheese in Holland treated for 
marketing? Id. Describe an Edam cheese market. 15. Where 
are the principal cheese markets in North Holland held? 16. 
What kind of Edams reach the consumer in the United States? 
17. How are some of the cheese colored? 18. Wdiat condi- 
tions are necessary to obtain a fine Edam cheese? 19. What 
are the possibilities for the manufacture of Edam in America? 

20. What kind of a market is there for Edam in this country? 

21. What quality of milk is required for Edam cheese? 22. 
How is the milk treated until the whey is drawn? 23. How 
much acid should there be on the curd at the time of dipping? 
24. How long and in what condition is the curd held until ready 
for the press ? 25. Of what material are Edam molds in Hol- 
land made? 2(5. Of what material are they made in this coun- 
try? 27. Describe an Edam mold. 28. What kind of a press 
is required for pressing Edams? 29. How is the curd put into 
the mold? 30. How long is the cheese left in the press before 
dressing? 31. How is an Edam cheese dressed? 32. How 
long is an Edam cheese pressed? 33. What particular care 
should be taken in dressing the cheese ? 3d. Why is the 
bandage used on the cheese? 35. When is the bandage re- 
moved? 36. What is one of the most serious difficulties to be 
met with in the manufacture of Edam? 37. How is Edam 
salted? 38. How long is Edam cheese salted? 39. How may 
cheese be prevented from cracking? 40. On what kind of 
shelves should the new cheese be placed and why? 41. How 
long should cheese be cured? 42. Upon what conditions does 
the flavor of Edam cheese depend? 43. How are Edams pre- 
pared for market ? 



CHAPTER XX. 
COTTACxE CHEESE. 



362* Utilization of skim rtiilk. 

A great many city dairies that turn a large part of their 
milk into the form of cream have skim milk left on their hands, 
and to make the business pay as well as possible, they natur- 
ally look for a means of disposing of this skim milk. Usually 
there is quite a demand for the sour milk curd, known as 
Dutch cheese, cottage cheese, or smierkase. 

363. Methods of manufacture. 

As this has been made probably for centuries, it would 
seem an easy task, and so it is, if conditions are just right, but 
as large dairies sometimes have difficulty in obtaining uniform 
results, a short chapter treating about the manufacture of this 
cheese from a scientific standpoint may be helpful. 

364. Curdling power of acid. 

As has been explained the casein of milk is precipitated 
by rennet and dilute acids. Sweet milk can be heated to the 
boiling point without curdling, but as acid develops, the milk 
will first be coagulated at the higher temperatures, and then as 
the acidity increases, the temperature at which it will curdle is 
gradually lowered until skim milk containing eight-tenths of 
a per cent of acid will curdle spontaneously. At about 70° 
F. skim milk will not increase in acidity above nine-tenths of 
a per cent as the growth of the lactic acid germ is inhibited. 
This amount of acid begins to redissolve the curd and make it 
mushy, so that it is hard to handle, and the acid also makes a 
sharper flavor than is desirable. 

365. Effect of fat on per cent of acid in milk. 

Fat in milk or cream takes the place of some of the milk 
serum. Cream containing 35 per cent fat will curdle with aboui 
five-tenths of a per cent of lactic acid, and milk containing 5 
per cent fat will develop hardly more than seven-tenths per 
cent of acid. This is because the fat displaces a portion of the 
serum. 



Cottage Cheese. 177 

366. Abnormal fermentations. 

When other fermentations than pure lactic acid occur, 
trouble may ensue, for gas may make the curd froth so that it 
may be impossible to use it, or the flavor may be impaired. 
The way out of such a difficulty is to use a lactic ferment starter 
(112) in the milk. 

367. Measuring the acidity. 

As acidity plays such an important part, it is desirable to 
measure the acid from time to time. For this a Farrington Acid 
Test outfit is required. In addition to the apparatus previously 
described for testing milk for an acidity of two-tenths per 
cent (106), a graduated glass cylinder of 100 c. c. capacity is re- 
quired for measuring the water carefully. One tablet is used 
for each 19.5 c. c. of water, or five tablets for 97 c. c. of water. 
The titration is then made with 17.5 c. c. of milk measured 
into the teacup with a Babcock pipette. Each cubic centimeter 
of the alkali solution required is equal to one one-hundredth of 
one per cent of lactic acid. 

368. Setting the milk. 

The milk should be set in a steam heating vat, and the 
increase in acidity watched. Probably 80° F. will be found to be 
a good temperature at which to hold it. If it is desired to have 
the vat come off at a certain time, the ripening can be regulated 
by the temperature at which the milk is held. 

369. Curding the milk. 

The increasing acidity should be watched and when the 
point at which it will curdle is just at the temperature at which 
it is setting, the temperature can be raised, and by stirring the 
curd will form and break, and as the temperature rises the whey 
will be expelled and the curd will collect in little grains and 
firm up. Possibly the operator may find it better to let the 
milk begin to curdle before turning on the steam. The curd 
will probably be firmed sufficiently by raising the temperature 
to 120° F. The stirring is kept up until the curd is firm 
enough and then it is allowed to settle. 

370. Dipping the milk. 

As soon as the curd has settled so that it will not inter- 
fere with the whey strainer, the whey is drawn off and the curd 
is dipped with a curd pail into a cloth strainer. This strainer is 
made of linen strainer cloth, and is in the form of a tube so 



178 Cheese Making. 

that it can be shipped over a wooden frame. The ends of the 
frame are supported by wooden horses, which are set over a 
drain to catch the whey. The curd is stirred in this strainer to 
free it from the excess of whey. Perhaps a little cream or 
butter may be added to the curd at this time to make it softer 
and more palatable. Cottage cheese, like other kinds, is more 
desirable if it contains a good quantity of butter fat. A little 
dry sage or caraway seed may also be worked into it to give it 
flavor. Salt to suit the taste, probably about two pounds to the 
thousand pounds of milk, is also worked in. 
371 1 Marketing' the cheese. 

Local conditions may affect the form in which the cheese 
is put up for sale. It can be put into balls or loaves, which 
are cut later, or in paper packages, such as are used for oysters 
and ice cream. It always pays to put up any article in as clean 
and attractive a form as possible. 

QUESTIONS ON CHAPTER XX. 

1. What two classes of substances curdle the casein? 2. 
What per cent of lactic acid must be present in skim milk to 
curdle it? 3. What per cent of lactic acid will curdle cream 
containing 35 per cent fat? 4. Why does it take a higher per 
cent of lactic acid to curdle skim milk than cream? 5. What 
effect has temperature on the curdling power of lactic acid? 
6. W r hat will be the effect of abnormal fermentations on the 
quality of the cheese? 7. How may the per cent of lactic acid 
in the milk be measured? 8. What is the effect of too much 
acid on the curd? 9. How may the milk be set and curdled 
at just the right point of acidity? 10. How high is it neces- 
sary to heat the curd to get it firm? 11. How is the curd sepa- 
rated from the whey? 12. Describe the strainer into which 
the curd is dipped? 13. W r hat is the object of adding cream or 
butter to the curd? 14. How much salt is required for cot- 
tage cheese? 15. What substances may be mixed with the 
cheese for flavor? 1G. How should cottage cheese be marketed? 



BIBLIOGRAPHY. 



The following books should be helpful to the cheesemaker : 

Dairy Bacteriology By Dr. H. L. Russell 

Testing Milk and Its Products By Farrington and Woll 

Principles of Modern Dairy Practice (Grotenfelt) 

Trans, from the Danish by F. W. Woll 

Handbook for Farmers and Dairymen By F. W. Woll 

Milk and Its Products By H. H. Wing 

Chemistry of Dairying By Harry Snyder 

A. B. C. of Cheese Making By J. H. Monrad 

Cheese Making in Switzerland By J. H. Monrad 

Creamery Accounting By J. A. V ye 



179 



REFERENCES TO EXPERIMENT STATION 
REPORTS. 



The following list of references are to the bulletins and 
reports of the experiment stations and the United States De- 
partment of Agriculture. The list is not an exhaustive one 
in the field of experiment station literature, but is intended 
to be helpful to the student who wishes to follow some of the 
investigations which have helped to place the art of cheese 
making on a scientific basis. 

References on : 

(1). The composition of milk in general. 

Wisconsin Experiment Station Reports VI, pp. 42-63 and 
161-168; VII, pp. 114-119; XI, pp. 205-217; XII, pp. 120-126; 
XIII, pp. 73-80; XVI, pp. 140-152. Bulletins 15, 16, 18, 61. 
New Jersey Bulletins 61, 65, GS } 67. Massachusetts Reports 
1888, 1889, 1890, 1891. 1892. Minnesota Bulletin 19. 

From Different Breeds: New York Experiment Station 
Report 1891. Michigan Bulletin 68. Nevada Bulletin 16. 
Cornell Bulletin. How Is Milk Formed? Bulletin 173, Idie 
Relation of Food to Milk Fat. Bulletin 169, Studies in Milk- 
Secretion. Bulletin 92, The Effect of Feeding Fat to Cows. 

Composition of Butter Fat as Affected by Food : New 
Hampshire Bulletins 16 and 18; Texas Bulletins 11 and 14; 
Alabama Bulletin 25; Pennsylvania Report 1890, Bulletin 17; 
Maine Reports 1890, 1891, 1893; Iowa Bulletins 13, 14, 16, 17. 

The Chemistry of Dairy Products, Ontario Report 1890, 
pp. 237-241; Bulletin 39. 

The Mineral Ingredients of Milk: Maine Report 1890, 
Part II, pp. 52-67. 

Milk Ash Analysis: New Hampshire Report 1888; Min- 
nesota Bulletin 19. 

Variations in Milk: Illinois Bulletin 17, pp. 9-16, and 
Bulletin 24. 

Facts About Milk : U. S. Department of Agriculture : 
Farmers' Bulletin 42. 

180 



References to Experiment Station Reports. 181 

Variations in Milk During the Period of Lactation : Ver- 
mont Report VI. 

The Centrifugal Separation of Casein and Insoluble Phos- 
phates from Milk: Wisconsin Report XII, p. 93. 

Photographs of Section of a Cow's Udder : Cornell Bulle- 
tins 158 and 178. 

The Feeding Value of Whey: Wisconsin Bulletin 27; Re- 
port VIII, pp. 38-18. 

Whey Butter: Cornell Bulletin 85. 

(2). Fat globules of milk. 

The Fat Globules in Milk: Maine, Report 1890. 

The Size and Number of Fat Globules in Milk: Wiscon- 
sin, Report VII, p. 238; XI, p. 223. Pennsylvania, Report 
1895. Vermont, Report IV. 

In Milk From Cows of Different Breeds : New York Ex- 
periment Station Reports 1891-92. 

In the First and Last Half of Milking: Indiana, Bulle- 
tin 24. 

The Grouping of Fat Globules: Wisconsin, Bulletin IS, 

Report XIII, p. 80. 
(3). Testing milk. 

Testing Cream and Milk : Main, Bulletin 4. 
Purchasing Milk by Test: Delaware, Report VII and 
Bulletin 31. 

Babcock and Beimling Tests : Ontario, Report 1890, pp. 

183-184. 

Short's Milk Test : Wisconsin, Bulletin 16. 

Cochran's Milk Test : Cornell, Bulletin 17. 

Babcock Milk Test : Wisconsin, Bulletins 24, 31, 36, 52. 

Comparison of Milk Tests: West Virginia, Report III. 

The Composite Test: Wisconsin, Bulletin 36; Iowa, Re- 
port XI, pp. 482-484; Bulletins 9, 14, 22; Illinois, Bulletins 16 

and 18. 

Detection of Adulterations : Wisconsin, Bulletin 31. 

Lactometer and Fat Test: Minnesota, Bulletin 27, pp. 
55-56 ; Main, Bulletin 4 (new series), pp. 6-10. 
(4). Yields and losses in cheese making. 

The Influence of Fat Upon the Yield and Quality of Cheese 
—Babcock: Wisconsin, Report XI, pp. 131-146. 



i< s 2 Cheese Making. 

The Relation Between Milk Solids and the Yield of Cheese 
and Between Specific Gravity and Solids of Milk: Wisconsin, 
Report XII, pp. 100-120. 

Cheese Making, Distribution of Ingredients and Loss of 
Fat : Handbook Experiment Station Work, U. S. Department 
of Agriculture. 

The Composition of Cheese, Milk and Whey and Their 
Relation to One Another: Ontario, Report 1894. 

The Addition of Cream to Milk for Cheese Making : Min- 
nesota, Bulletin 19. 

A Series of Investigations in Cheese Making: Geneva 
(N. Y.), Bulletins 43, 45, GO, 61, 62, 65, 68, 70, 82, 89, 105, 
110, 132. 

The Loss of Cheese in Curing : Wisconsin, Report XI, 
p. 144. 

Losses in Cheese Making: Vermont, Report 1891, pp. 
95-100. 

(5). Aeration of milk. 

Aeration and Aerators: Cornell, Bulletin 39, pp. 90-94; 
Vermont, Reports 1892, pp. 123-128 ; Indiana, Bulletin 44, 
pp. 37-39. 

On Flavor of Curds: Wisconsin, Report XII, p. 127. 

Absorption of Odors by Milk : Wisconsin, Report XV, 
p. 104. 

(6). Acidity. 

On Acid Test of Cream : Illinois, Bulletins 32 and 33. 

Alkaline Tablets : Wisconsin, Bulletin 52, pp. 8-16. 

The Influence of Acid on the Texture of Cheese : Wiscon- 
sin, Report XII, p. 129. 

The Hot Iron Test : Wisconsin, Report XII, p. 133. 

Experiments in Ripening Milk Before Setting: Wisconsin, 
Report XII, p. 136. 
(7). Organized ferments. 

Pure Lactic Cultures in Cheese Making and the Rise and 
Fall of Bacteria in Cheddar Cheese: Wisconsin, Report XIII, 
pp. 95 and 112. 

The Wisconsin Curd Test : Wisconsin, Report XV, p. 45. 

Effect of Digesting Bacteria on the Cheese Solids of Milk : 
Wisconsin, Report XVI. 



References to Experiment Station Reports. 



183 



Dal rv Bacteriology: Bulletin 25, Office of Experiment 
Stations, U. S. Department of Agriculture. 

Invasion of the Udder by, Bacteria: Cornell, Bulletin 178. 

The Different Species of Bacteria Producing Lactic Acid. 
Connecticut (Storrs School), Report III. 

Blue, Red, Reddish Brown, Bitter Milk: Minnesota, Re- 

"^T^oxicon-Cheese Poisoning-Vaughan ; Michigan 
State Board of Health Report, 1886. 

The Fermentations of Milk-U. S. Department of Agri- 
culture; Office of Experiment Stations, Bulletm 9 . 

Souring of Milk : U. S. Department of Agriculture , 1 arm 

"^ Nation of Rennet from Bacteria Cultures: Connecticut 
(Storrs), Report 1892, pp. 106-126. 

Sources of Bacterial Infection: Wisconsin, Report XI, 

PP ' Cleanness in Handling Milk: N. Dakota, Bulletin 21. 

Care of Milk on the Farm: U. S. Department of Agncul- 

tUrC Sourct: n o^as and Taint Producing Bacteria: Cornell, 

BUll C^ored Spots in Cheese: Circular No. 21, R. A. Pea, 
son, U. S. Department of Agriculture. 

(8). Enzymes. . 

Rennet Extracts of Commerce: Iowa, Bulletin 22, pp. 

845 "Tne Chemistry of Casein and the Theory of the Curdling 
Action of Rennet : G. Courant in Exp. St. Record Vol. V^ 

Commercial Rennets: Exp. St. Record, Vol. V, , p. .100. 

Experiments With Rennet: Wisconsin Report XV, pp. 

31 " 3 Galactase: Wisconsin, Reports XIV, p. 161; XV, pp. 77- 
93; XVI, pp. 157-175. 

(9). Cheese making. 

Hints to Cheese Makers: Iowa, Bulletin 19, pp. 627-631 
Investigations in Cheese Making: Iowa, Bulletin 21, pp. 

735-767. 



184 Cheese Making. 

Experiments in Cheese Making: Minnesota, Bulletin 19, 
pp. 20-25. 

Changes During Cheese Ripening: Iowa, Bulletin 24, pp. 
969-984. 

Experiments Upon the Curing of Cheese: Cornell, Re- 
port 1880, p. 927. 

Moisture Supply in Curing Rooms : Wisconsin, Report 
XIII, p. 156. 

Cheese Making — Recent Work : Experiment Station Re- 
cord, Vol. V. 

Manufacture and Production of Cheese — Alvord : Year 
Book, 189.") ; U. S. Department of Agriculture. 

The Manufacture of Some Fancy Brands of Cheese — Lusch- 
inger : Minnesota Dairy Association, Report XVI. 

The Manufacture of Edam and Gouda Cheese : Minnesota, 
Bulletin 35, Report 1894, pp. 104-128; New York Experiment 
Stations Report, 189,5, pp. 244-209. 

Milk for Cheese Making: Ontario, Bulletins 28, 41, 94. 

Xotes for Cheese Makers : Ontario, Bulletins 40, 43, 44, 
47; and Reports 1889, pp. 163-179; 1893, pp. 167-170. 

Method of Handling Sour Milk in Making Cheese : Wis- 
consin, Report XV, p. 42. 

Influence of Temperature on the Ripening of Cheese : Wis- 
consin, Report XIII, p. 194. 

Coating Cheese With Parafine : Wisconsin, Report XVI, 
p. 153. 

Cleaning Milk for Cheese With a Centrifugal Separator: 
Wisconsin, Report XI, p. 146. 

Albumen Cheese: Wisconsin, Report XII, p. 134. 

Wisconsin Cheese Makers' Association Reports. 
(10). Salt. 

Effect of Salt in Cheese: Wisconsin, Report XI, p. 220. 

Salt and Its Prevention of the Swelling of Cheese — Freu- 
denreich : Experiment Station Record, Vol. V, p. 91. 

Analyses of Salt : Wisconsin. Bulletin 74. 



References to Experiment Station Reports. 185 

(11). Statistics. 

The Distribution of Cheese Factories in Wisconsin : Wis- 
consin, Bulletin 60, Report XIV. 

Statistics of the Dairy : U. S. Department of Agriculture, 
Bureau of Animal Industry, Bulletin 11. 

Statistical Data Relative to the Cheese Industry of Wis- 
consin: Wisconsin, Report XIV, p. 113. 

National and State Dairy Laws — R. A. Pearson : Bulletin 
of U. S. Department of Agriculture. 

By-Laws, Rules and Regulations for Cheese Factories : 
Canada Central Exp. St., Farm Dairy, Bulletin 9. 



ANALYTICAL INDEX. 

THE NUMBERS REFER TO PARAGRAPHS. 

1 iQt; 1 q,^ ifii Fffect of too much in milk, 115. 
^Etfecf on ::*S ti-s test fC 107. How much 
f eq ured for % in. on hot iron, 134 In milk for S-ss cheese ^ 
In water for washing cloths, 202. Lactic source of, ^Measure 
for Babcock test. 57. Measuring by hot iron, 134. Sulfuric, 
milk test 60. Threads on hot iron due to, 135. 
ACIBITY.-Effect of fat content on possible, 365. In relation to curdling 
temperature, 369. Measure for, 367 Of mdk for bnck chee e 314 
for Cheddar. 110-115; Cottage, 364; Edam, 345. 351, 352, Swiss, A». 
Aerators.— Kinds of, 34. 
Albuminoids.— How divided, 4. 
Albumen.— Character of, 6. 
Albumose.— Character of, 7. 
Alkali.— Effect on rennet action, 90. 
Antiseptics.— Use of in factory, 50. 

Ash -Character of. 8. Effect of heat on. 8 q Reaction with Ammo- 
nium Oxalate. 8. Soluble and Insoluble, 8. 
Babcock Milk Test, 54. Acid measure, 57 Bottle 55. Centrifuge 
58. How operated, 59. Kind and strength of acid for, 60 P ipette 
56. Reading of fat, 62. Speed of centrifuge, 61. Testing cheese 
with, 63. Weight of milk samples, 56. 
Bacteria-How introduced into milk, 28. In barn air, 35. Varieties 

. of in milk, 29. 
Bandage-How put on cheese, 180. Starched, seamless and ready 

BOXES-For'brick, 328; for Cheddar cheese, 204; Edam, 361; Limbur- 

ger 340; Swiss block, 310; Drum, 309. 
Brick Cheese -Characteristics of. 312. Curd, how cooked 316 Gas 
BR f^rmentauons in, 326. How pressed, 319-323 Quahty of milk for, 

313 Quantity of rennet required for, 315. Salting, d-4. 
Business -By-laws for factory, 267. Factory statement, 272. Test com- 
mhtee. 268. Figuring dividends, 271. Operation of factories, 20,. 
Prices for making cheese, 270. 
Cap CLOTHS.-180, 181. 189, 191, 192. 

CASEiN.-Character of, 5. How separated from milk. 5. 

187 



188 Cheese Making. 

Cheddar Cheese. — Cheddar system proper, 106. Cleaning mouldy, 190. 
Cracks in, 187. Greasing, 187. Hoops for, 258. In cold storage, 
189. Made from ripened milk, 273. Size of, 178. Two processes 
of manufacture, 105. Where originated, 10.1. 

Cheese, — Amount of from skim milk, 13. Characteristics of brick, 312. 
Cheddar, 101. Corky, 216. Cottage, 302. Cracked, 219. Difficulty 
in making good. 221. Edam. 342. Fancy styles of, 329. Hard, 
crumbly. 217. Limburger,* 330. Poison, 220. Sweet curd, 273. 
Swiss, 273. Weak bodied or pasty, 218. Yield of per 100 lbs. of 
milk, 14. 

Cleanliness. — Of cows, 36; factory, 41; utensils, 39 and 40. 

Cloth. — Caps, 180, 181, 189. Circles, 191. For supplying moisture to 
air. 202. Press cloths, 192. 

Color. — From annatto, 116. Of an uncolored cheese, 116. Of Cheddar, 
213; Edam, 351, 361; Limburger, 331; Swiss, 279. Requirements of 
different markets, 116. Source of in commerce, 116. When added to 
the milk, 116. 

Colostrum Milk. — Characteristics of, 15. 

Cooking the Curd. — Brick, 316, 317. Cheddar. 120. Definition of 
term, 120. Effect of overcook, 133. Effect of undercook. 133, 185. 
For an over-ripe curd, 129. Swiss, 295. Test for proper preformance 
of, 133. When to begin, 128. 

Corky Cheese. — Cause of, 133, 216. Described, 216. 

Cottage Cheese. — Cooking curd, 369. Marketing. 371. Method of man- 
ufacture. 363. Several names for, 362. 

Cracked Cheese. — How caused, 219. 

Curd. — Composition of, 16. Condition of for salting. 164. Cutting into 
blocks. 139. Piling of, 142. Pin-holey, 141. Steaming of, 163. Sweet 
273. Turning on the rack. 140. Washing of, 142. Wisconsin C. 
test, 31. When ready to mill, 148. 

Curd Mills. — Advantages and objections to knife mills, 158. De- 
scription of. 149. Kinds— Barnard, 156; B. & W., 151; Elgin, 149; 
Fuller. 155; Gosselin, 153; Harris, 154; Kasper, 157; McPherson. 
152; Peg, 149; Pohl, 150; Roe, 140; Whitlow, 151. Time to mill, 160. 

Curd Sink. — How constructed, 144. How to fill. 145. Required in fac- 
tory, 258. Use of, 143. 

Curing. — Brick cheese, 325, 327. Edam, 358. Effect of different tem- 
peratures on, 195. Effect of humidity on, 198. How long a process, 
197. Length of period for Edam, 360. Length" of period for Swiss, 
308. Limburger, 339. Shelves. 264. Shelves for Edam, 359. Shelves, 
how made, 196. Temperature of room for Cheddar, 194. 

Curing Room. — Cellars for, 238. 239. Cellars for Swiss, 306. Floor for, 
233. How ventilated. 240. Walls for, 235, 236. 



Analytical Index. 



189 



Cutting the CuRD.-Cutting into blocks on racks, 139. For Swiss 
Theese 289-293. How to cut. 121-125. Rapidity of stroke a factor 
in. 126. Test when ready for, 119. 
Daisies.— Size of, 178. 

Dipping the CuRD.-Cheddar, 138. For brick, 318. For Swiss, 297. 
Dressing the CnEESE.-Cheddar, 183. Edam, 356. 

Edam Cheese -As found in Holland. 345. Characteristics of. 34.. 
Cheese market. 347. Market for in America 349. Method of manu- 
facture, 350. Origin of. 343. Treatment of for market, 346. 
Emulsion.— Definition of. 11. 

ENZYMES.-Descnbed, 71. Galactase. 72. Rennet, 73. 
FACTORiES.-By.laws for association, 267. Condition oi ULJ^* 
265. Equipment, 258. Hot water in, 226, 248. In Ontario -. 
Plans for, 228-240. Plans of operation, 266. Poorly built, 223. 224. 
Private ownership. 266. Stock company, 266. Too small. -.. 
Factory SvsTEM.-History of in Ohio, 103. History of in Wisconsin, 
104 How carried to England, 106. Where and when started, 102. 
Fat -As basis for making dividends, 271. Characteristics and compo- 
sition. 10-11. Effect of on possible acidity. 365. Effect of on quality 
of cheese. 13, 14. Effect of on quality of cottage cheese 370 Effect 
of on quantity of cheese, 14. How excessive losses in Swiss cheese 
may be avoided, 20. Removing from curd for pressing 17& Rde 
for calculating yield of cheese from fat test of milk, 14. Specific 
gravity of, 12. Value of for Swiss cheese, 288. 
Fat Globules.— Number and size. 11. 

FERMENTATioN.-Gas in brick cheese, 326 How kept up in ^curd 13 
146. In curing process, 194. In Limburger cheese. 339. 341. In 
manufacture of cottage cheese, 364, 366. 
Ferments.— Two general classes of, 71. 
Flats.-Hoops for, 259. How boxed. 203. 204. Pressing in Cheddar 

hoops 258. Size of, 178. Twins and singles, 203. 
FLAVOR ._Of Brick cheese, 312, 313; Edam, 342; Limburger. 331; Swiss, 

277 Three causes for in milk. 25. 
Fraser HooP.-Bandage. how held in, 178. Followers and fibrous 

ring, 181. 
Glaesler CHEESE.-Cause of. 283. Grade of, 280, 281. 
Health.— Effect of rubber boots and wet floors on. 42. 
Helmer.— Automatic pressure press. 178. 

Hoops.-Do not pound. 186. For Edam, 253. For flats. 259. Fraser, 
178. Number required, 258. Wilson, 184. 

^ r w oi q Tnrkv cheese 216. Cracked, 219. Eng- 

Judging Cheese.— Color, 213. Lorky cneese, 

lish standard, 215. Flavor. 210. Gross appearance, 211. Hard and 



190 Cheese Making. 

crumbly, "217. How sample is taken, 209. Poison. 220. Salt, 212. 
Swiss, 281. Texture, 211. Weak bodied or pasty, 218. Wisconsin 
cheese Makers' Standard, 215. Wisconsin Dairymen's Standard, 209. 

Kettles. — For Swiss cheese, 287. How filled, 288. Wooden brake, 294. 

Lactometers. — Board of Health, 65. Quevenne, 64. 

Limburger Cheese. — Characteristics of, 331. Curing, 339. Draining 
curd, 336, 337. Origin of, 330. Quality of milk required, 332. Salt- 
ing. 338. Setting milk and cooking curd, 334, 335. Shipping, 340. 
Utensils used, 333. 

Marketing Cheese. — Brick, 328. Cheddar, 208. Cottage, 371. Edam, 
361. Limburger, 340. Swiss, 308, 309. 

Milk. — Absorption of flavors in, 27. Aeration of, 26, 33. Bacterial in- 
fection of, 28. Care of, 32. Cause of souring, 28. Composition of, 
2. Cooling of, 37. Constituents of in curd and whey, 16. Effect 
of food upon, 26. Fore and strippings, analysis of, 23. How lifted, 
261. Man's use of, 3. Purpose of, 1. Quality required for brick, 
313, 314. Secretion of, 23. Specific gravity of, 64. Three causes of 
bad flavors in, 25. Time of secretion, 24. Varieties of bacteria in, 29. 

Moisture in Air of Curing Room. — Brick, 325. Cheddar, 198, 201. 
Limburger, 339. Swiss, 303. Measure for, 199, 200. Supply, 202. 

Niszler Cheese. — Cause of, 280. Grade of, 281. 

Pin-holey Curds. — How caused, 141. Treatment of. 141, 162, 163. 

Poison Cheese. — How caused, 220. 

Presses. — Helmer, 178. Required, 258. Sprague, 178. Tightening the, 
182, Upright, 178. 

Pressing Cheese. — Block Swiss, 299. Brick, 323. Drum Swiss, 298. 
Edam, 354, 355. Limburger, 337. Packages used, 178. Tempera- 
ture for, 176, 177. 

Racks. — How made, 137. How used, 138. Turning curd on, 140. 

Records. — Form for, 193. 

Rennet. — Action dependent on three factors, 81. A powerful agent, 83. 
Effect of acid on, 79. Effect of heat on, 77. Extract brands to be 
preferred, 76; how prepared, 75; not alike, 80, 109. For fast and 
slow curing cheese, 117. Inexhaustible, 78. Quantity required for 
brick cheese, 315. Should be diluted, 118. Source of, 74. 

Rennet Action. — Effect of acid and alkali on, 92; of anaesthetics on, 
96; of boracic acid on, 100; formaline on, 100; salt on, 94; strength 
of rennet on, 98; temperature on, 81, 95; of watered milk on, 92. 
Soluble calcium salts required for, 99. Thermal destruction point 
of, 97. 

Rennet Test. — Discovered by Harri; , 82. Errors to be avoided with 
Marschall test, 90. For Edam, 351. Glass graduates for, 84. Mar- 
schall tests vary, 89. Of milk for brick cheese, 314. Practical ap- 
plication of. 109, 110. The Marschall test, 87. The Monrad test, 85. 



Analytical Index. 191 

Salt. — Amount required, 169, 170. Chemical composition of, 165. Con- 
sidered in judging, 212. Effect upon cheese, 168, 169. How applied, 
171, 172. How tested, 167. Impurities in, 167. Where obtained, 166. 

Salting the Curd. — Brick, 318, 324. Condition of curd for, 164. Edam, 
357. Limburger, 338. Swiss cheese, in brine, 301; with dry salt, 302. 
Temperature for, 173. 

Scale Boards. — For Cheddar cheese, 204. 

Score Cards. — For Cheddar cheese, 209, 214. 

Setting the Milk. — Brick, 316; for Cheddar cheese, 117; Cottage, 368; 
Edam, 351; Limburger, 334; Swiss, 289. Temperature for, 117. 

Sewers. — Blind-well for, 250. Importance of, 249. In clay soils, 252. 
Trap for, 251. 

Sink.- — For washing, how made, 260. 

Solids of Milk.— Not fat, 2; total, 2. 

Sprague. — Automatic adjustable gang press, 178. 

Starter. — Definition of, 111. For Brick cheese, 314; Edam, 345, Swiss. 
285. How to select one, 112, 114. Lactic ferment, 113. 

Stirring the Curd. — How done, 130, 292, 295. On racks. 159. Uten- 
sils for, 131, 132. Why done. 127. 

Sub-earth Ducts. — Electric fans for, 244. Number and size of tiles, 
243. Principle of, 241. Use of a well for, 242. 

Sugar of Milk. — Character of, 9. Use of in medicine and as food, 9. 

Sweet Curd. — Kinds, 273. 

Swiss Cheese.— Blind, 280. Block and drum, 275. Block Swiss. 304. 
Boxing, 309, 310. Cellars required, 306. Characteristics, 273. Color, 
279. Cutting curd for, 289-293. Description of, 275. Eyes, 278. 
Flavor, 277. Glaciers, 283. Grades of, 280, 281. Handling on 
shelves, 305, 307. How tried, 281. Kettles for, 287. Length of. 
curing period, 308. Niszler, 281. Quality, how determined. 276. 
Rennet test for, 284. Salting of. 302. Selection of milk for, 282. 
Setting milk for, 289. Starting eyes, 303. Texture, 278. Use of 
starter for, 285. Where made, 274. 

Temperature. — Different degrees of for curing, 195. For cooking — 
Brick, 316; Cheddar, 129; Cottage, 369; Edam, 351; Limburger, 
355; Swiss, 295. For curing— Brick, 325; Cheddar, 194, 195; Edam, 
360; Limburger, 339; Swiss, 303, 306. For Rennet test, 85. 

Testing Milk. — Apparatus for, 262. Babcock test, 54. Committee for, 
268. Composite sample, 67. Detecting watered milk, 66. Rapid 
progress in, 53. Sampling tube, 68. 

Texture.— Of Brick cheese, 312, 313, 327; Cheddar, 211: Edam, 342; 
Limburger, 331; Swiss, 278. 

Tvrotoxicon. — In poison cheese, 220. 

Udder. — Structure of 22. 



192 Cheese Making. 

Utensils. — Brick cheese draining boards, 321. Draining table, 320. 
Molds, 319. Curd rakes. 131, 132. Curd sink, 144. 145. Herrick's 
curd cutter, 139. Horizontal curd knife, 122. Hygroscope, 199. 
Kind and care of, 39, 40. Perpendicular curd knife, 125. Psychrome- 
ter, 200. Scrubbing brushes, etc., 45. Swiss curd stirrer, 292. Swiss 
harp, 290. Wooden kettle brake, 294. 

Vats. — Size of, 256. How lined, 257. 

Washing Cheese. — In cold storage. 190. 

Washing Curd, 142. 

Weak Bodied Cheese. — Cause of, 133, 147. 

Weighing Cheese. — Cheddar, 205. Weights, how marked, 200. 207. 

Whey. — Butter, 311. Composition of, 17, 18. From Swiss cheese, 20. 
How elevated, 254. Loss of fat in. 19. Tanks, 225, 253. 

Young Americas. — How boxed, 203. Size of, 178. 



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